Homebrew long arm crossmember?

Incredible Hulk · Nov 25, 2003

To those of you that have built your own long arms from scratch, what did yo do for the crossmember? I am curious to nkow if you somehow reused the old crossmember and beefed it up, or if you built something from scratch? Or did you mount them somewhere else? How?
If you could include pics and explanations I would appreciate it. Thanks!
josh

Beezil · Nov 25, 2003

whatever you do, I highly suggest you design and fab a longarm bracket that does not rely on the crossmember.

I think it would be a real pain in the ass to worry about chocking/supporting the whole front axle anytime you need to drop the crossmember.

here, the link mount is seperate, yet can be bolted together to tie everything for extra strength.....

hope the picture makes sense.

Incredible Hulk · Nov 25, 2003

I understand what you are saying, but I dont really understand the picture. How do the two work separately, yet together? I see the idea, jsut dont know how to do it? Are those bottom two bolts self tapped into the frame rail? The pic came out dark on my comp, so I cant really tell how it all works. Thanks for helping me to understand.

So what are your thoughts on the claytosn or rustys crossmember? I believe tehy both rely on the crossmember supporting the trasnny and the arms as well. You are suggesting NOT doing this? I was contemplating just building the arms and buying a crossmember?Thoughts on that?

Beezil · Nov 25, 2003

the part that is grey is the crossmember.

the part that is black is the assy that the links mount to. that part is welded directly to the frame rails. they include "weld nuts" 7/16" IIRC, that are recessed into the framerail. You can see it in the picture, but that "access slot" cut in the "gusset" of the crossmember also has a bolt that bolts to the link bracket, right smack-dab where the heim joint is to tie it all in togther.....I can un bolt everything, and remove the crossmember, which does not affect my links...see what i'm saying? I think it makes sense to keep them seperated so you can drop the crossmember if you ever needed to, without having to chock and support the whole freaking front axle....

do you know what happens to the front axle when you remove a crossmember that also holds your lower links? yep, coil springs basically launch thew front axle right out from under your jeep....

I don't know what the aftermarket kits are like, just trying to give you some ideas if you go 100-percent home-buiilt

korda · Nov 25, 2003

I made my center center section removable like claytons kit. The sections the arms are mounted to bolt into the frame rails and the center section is bolted to them.

Hunter-LynchburgVa · Nov 25, 2003

pic links to a copy of claytons that my friend paul built for a buddys zj notice how all the links are the same length, so if worst comes to worst you only need 2 spares. the frame was boxed with 4x4.

http://smallnet.homeip.net:3001/jeepzj/pics/7-22-03/index.htm

http://smallnet.homeip.net:3001/jeepzj/pics/7-23-03/index.htm

http://smallnet.homeip.net:3001/jeepzj/pics/7-25-03/index.htm

http://smallnet.homeip.net:3001/jeepzj/pics/7-26-03/index.htm

http://smallnet.homeip.net:3001/jeepzj/pics/9-27-03/index.htm

2xtreme · Nov 26, 2003

Beezil,

Most people have not used Heims unlike yours. I was going to use Heims on the fram end also. Any opinions if they are better or worse than any alternatives. I was going to run stock rubber at the other end. What are your thoughts?

What size heims are they?

Thanks,
Michael

RCP Phx · Nov 26, 2003

I built my crossmember solid for my own reasons,I could have just as easily made the center section drop out.I also dont recommend heims for any type of DD(to much noise) and there really isnt any need,JJ's' work awsome.

REDXJ4FUN · Nov 26, 2003

Hunter thats troys ZJ isn't it.

I like B's set up for the crossmember and mounts. most other typs put way tomuch strain on a small area of the "frame" witch isn't really a whole lot. I did my firt set so That the arms mounted right und the rails and it work but I wasn't very happy with it so itscoming off for a new setup.

Beezil · Nov 26, 2003

2extreme.

I don't really have any conclusive info for ya'.

on a previous set-up, I was running johnnie joints both ends.

those worked extremely well, no problems to speak of.

on this recent configuration, I chose heim joints for the sole purpose of having a "common replacement parts".

in total, I have a whopping 20 heim joints used in my suspension and steering.

it did not make any sense to use another type of joint for anything else.

jeepme · Nov 26, 2003

wow RCP that is a nice crossmember. If I had the skills I would do that myself. Did you make the arms or are they RE's?. How about Tomkens crossmember for there long arm kit does anyone know if it works with RE long arms. I am looking for a bolt on crossmember that would work with RE long arms considering I do not have welding skills

Jeff

2xtreme · Nov 26, 2003

I wanted to use Heims for the same reason, also it keeps the mounts smaller and less obtrusive. Plus the heims are cheaper and easier to replace than the JJ.

What size are you useing on the LA's??

PS. mine is a street driven car, but not much more than around town and to and from the trail, noise, and harsh ride do not bother me.

Michael

Beezil · Nov 26, 2003

3/4-16 shank, 5/8 bore

rockwerks · Nov 26, 2003

here is mine 2x4 notched to 1 1/2" @ frame

and using mj frame bracket you can get 6 or 8 bolts into cross member

RCP Phx · Nov 26, 2003

jeepme said:
wow RCP that is a nice crossmember. If I had the skills I would do that myself. Did you make the arms or are they RE's?. How about Tomkens crossmember for there long arm kit does anyone know if it works with RE long arms. I am looking for a bolt on crossmember that would work with RE long arms considering I do not have welding skills

Jeff

Thanks!
The arms are mine too,I did use RE joints but I used 1-1/4"x14 chromoly all-thread.My arms are 32" long,I dont know ifthe RE XJ arms are even out yet,but the TJ arms are 36" long.

vintagespeed · Nov 27, 2003

You long arm guys are 2 funny. Beez tried to point out that bolting your control arms to the xmember isn't such a great idea & everyone jumps on with pics of their xmember with control arms bolted to it.

Like I said, 2 funny.

JKTXJ · Nov 28, 2003

I've met Beezil, have seen his rig and have great appreciation of his fab skills and the work he does. However, that doesn't mean that if Beezil says one thing.... nobody should post anything contrary to it. Kind of defeats the purpose of a forum IMO. I have been toying with the idea of making my own long arm crossmember as well, so I say keep the pics coming

JnJ · Nov 28, 2003

vintagespeed said:
You long arm guys are 2 funny. Beez tried to point out that bolting your control arms to the xmember isn't such a great idea & everyone jumps on with pics of their xmember with control arms bolted to it.

Like I said, 2 funny.

Ya, beez has stated this before... And I say (said) how often do ya have to remove your crossmember? Chalking your wheels when removing your crossmember with this setup seems only common sense to me (ya I have longarms with mounts on the crossmember), just like chalking your tires when removing your front links on just about any setup.
Last I checked, beez wasn't driving my junk.

It was his opinion, and we all have them. Just cause they don't agree with beez don't make them wrong. I'm sure beez would agree.

mbryson · Nov 30, 2003

I'm using 1 1/4" heims on my short arm setup. I figured I'd probably move up to some sort of 'long arm' but wanted to try a few things on the way. I drive mine on the street and have at least 5K miles on my heims ($65 retail) and they are still quite quiet. I had RE control arms before, and thought the Johnny Joints were pretty nice, but the heims are a little noisier.

For my money, I'd buy the rebuildable Johnny over a heim that will wear out. However, a local UROC builder wanted to see what street miles would do to a set of heims, so I thought I'd try them out. I don't have any pics posted, but have some if interested.

Just as an aside: I'm also with Beez on the long arm mounts NOT being welded to the crossmember, but to the 'frame'. I'm kind of into having having things holding my suspension together being WELDED to the strongest part of the rig rather than bolted to the unibody. However, to each his own and I've seen a few long arm kits in my experience.

Incredible Hulk · Nov 30, 2003

Beezil said this. "whatever you do, I highly suggest you design and fab a longarm bracket that does not rely on the crossmember."
If I understand correctly, he is saying to NOT weld them onto the cross member, but to have two separate parts, that bolt into each other. That way you can drop your crossmember and still keep your arms in place. Sounds like a good plan for someone who likes to change stuff around a lot that would need to be dropping the crossmember frequently....eh Beez?

On a side note, I am planning on building a crossmember imilar to RCPs, but with a little more girth in the mounting. Thanks for all your help and opinions, and of course if you have more keep them coming!

Homebrew long arm crossmember?

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