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Found something lovely under my carpet

GSequoia

Everyone says I'm a jerk.
NAXJA Member
Location
Torrance, CA
Took the carpet out to route wires and the link (and to take a look under) and found what you see below. Not happy! Wasn't very surprised as I found a wet carpet during the last rain...

Rust 1
Rust 2
Rust 3
Rust 4

Now, do you think this was just caused by the exaust heat getting through the rust protection on the underside? (The part that looks like the cause, and the most rusted out portion is right on top of the muffler) For now I'm just going to fill the hole(s) with Bondo and spray the hell out of it with rubberized paint, if I have the time tomorrow I'll drop th exaust and do the same down there...

Grr!

Sequoia
 
Nope looks just like mine. I have seen two others with the same rust pattern. I found mine when I took my carpet out after swamping it
fc858eb0.jpg
 
I'll be pullin' my carpet out when it warms up a bit. and I'm sure I'll find plenty of the same. I plan on repairing and Durabacking it.
 
Wanna trade?

Mine was a little(sic) worse...nothing that a bit of checker plate and rhino line didn't take care of.
oBefore.JPG
 
rust under the carpet is 'normal'. Eventually, the leaf spring mount will push up through the floor.

Yours isn't that bad though, sand it up and herculiner it. Carpet is for lightweights anyways :)
 
I just got new carpet to replace my wet and worn carpet, I have not had the time to put it in yet but I'm dreading what it looks like under the wet stuff, ( how easy is it to get the console out? I have not really looked at it yet )
 
The console comes out easily, just pull the T handle off (it pulls right off), then pull the bezel for the trans and transfer case off (once again, the just pull right off, hook your finger into them). After that there's a few phillips screws. LThe parking brake handle is the only bitchy part, there you have ot pull it up as far as you can, then pull the black part of the console off (the console comes out in two pieces). After you get the black part out, you'll find more screws. Remove them and yank the sucka out.

The carpet is stubborn to remove (thick rubber backing on the carpet, plus the insulation, if it's wet it'll be HEAVY). Pull it toward the back of the car while removing it, makes it easier.

Oh, and if you're pulling the rear carpet as well, that's easy as pie. (eatingi pie, not making it!)

Sequoia
 
Another qucik one. The extra insulation that's over the exaust system is shot in mine (it doesn't handle water too well!). Anyway, anybody ever run without this? I'm thinking I'll leave it out for a bit, and then later on I'll replaceit with some of that metalliac insulation. Just wondering how hot the carpet gets without it.

Thanks
Sequoia
 
I don't run any insulation and my muffler is supposed to run hotter than a stock type muffler. I have never had a problem with anything getting too hot and I have stock floor mats as the only carpet in my Jeep.
 
Slip Kid said:
rust under the carpet is 'normal'. Eventually, the leaf spring mount will push up through the floor.

Yours isn't that bad though, sand it up and herculiner it. Carpet is for lightweights anyways :)

My passenger side one is cracked. I dont know whats scarier the dana 35 or the mount. I am going to put in a stronger nount soon.
 
My Jeep was only 5 years old in 2000 when I pulled my carpet out. I had about a 12in by 20in area over the exhaust that was almost completely rusted out. My carpet was completely soaked when I pulled it out and it hadn't rained in weeks. I repaired the rust hole and put down duplicolor (similar to durabek and herculiner) and now nearly three years later its holding up well and aside from the fumes for several weeks after it was a great mod.

mac 'just dont get it on your hootus' gyvr
 
Based on the other rust I've got on my XJ, I'm sure there's some serious rust undeneath the carpet. So, assuming we do have serious rust underneath there, what are our options? I've got a fair amount of money into Col. Steve, and would REALLY like to keep running him until 300K miles or so (I absolutely LOVE having no car payment). I'm no welder, but have wanted to give it a shot of years, would cutting out the rusted floorpan and welding in some flat sheets be an option? then treating the crap out of them maybe?
Thanks,
Tom
 
tom from boston said:
I'm no welder, but have wanted to give it a shot of years, would cutting out the rusted floorpan and welding in some flat sheets be an option? then treating the crap out of them maybe?
Thanks,
Tom

That's what we did with the driver's foot well of my MJ. The key is to remember that you're welding thin sheet metal. To weld that successfully, especially if you aren't experienced, you need at least a decent wire welder and flux-core wire, and if you can afford it a MIG welder. I bought one of the low cost "hobby" wire welders, and already I know I should have gone up a notch (which would have cost an additional $100). The one I got only has two heat settings -- 65 amps and 85 amps. The "low" setting isn't nearly low enough for welding sheet metal.

I got it from Harbor Freight, and the ad was misleading. I thought I was getting a unit with infinitely variable output, but it's just a rocker switch with two positions.
 
I've done it different ways, including mig welding, and found that rdallh" wdldi.` in th p mtch fboor, epechall if the `eneral area is rusted, is a real hassle. If the vehicle is really nice dthdrwiba, ht mhdht be 6drth it, but foB#an older one, I would opt for cutting out the worst of the rot and screwing sheet metal ovdr t` top. `al it &ath som$vhing reallx gody `nd Hepermeable, like undercoating, herculiner, or my favorite, brushable roofinf taB and it will lpt for )`ars.
 
if you have a decent MIG at your disposal, there's nothin easier than hammerin a few cut pieces of sheetmetal into the shape of a floor and weldin' them down..

its the initial rust removal process that gets scary. makes ya think that you're not going to have any floor left until you finally find solid metal!
 
There is nothing easy about......

Floor pan repair in an XJ in my opinion!
 
Dang Ghost that is U.G.L.Y.!

So have you "fixed" it?

-Tom
 
Well, I "fixed" mine for a bit. Just did Bondo, the holes were little (the biggest one was probably 1" x 1.5" and I don't have access to and welding equipment (nor do I have the experiance yet...)

I got lazy and sprayed the floor with rubberized undercoating (I didn't have the money, time for prep, application, and drying to do rhinoliner.)

As it was I couldn't get shit finished until 2.30, and I still have a few hours of work to do, didn't get my front receiver in either...grr!

Right now I'm almost race ready! All I have in there is the drivers seat and seat belt!
 
I don't have a welder either but a generous amount of rivits plus the seat frame sandwiched on top appear to have done the trick.

I used a combination of checker plate on the driver's floor, passenger's floor and rear cargo area and then thin sheet metal under the rear seat for all the curves. I then sealed all the edges with silicone and used plenty of rhino liner.
oAfter.JPG
 
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