break system swap

I need to replace my master and booster. I have been thinking of a mod I saw that replaces the pre 95 single diaphram system with a 96 double system. It's almost a direct swap. I've asked a buddy of mine thats like the all mighty Jeep god and he says that even with the new 150lb bumper I'm getting I shouldn't need the mod. I'm not doubting him, I'm thinking later down the road when I get bigger tires, winch and other stuff that adds weight. Plus when you add a lift it makes the breaks work harder. I could get the GVW, spring rate, and other info to calculate the rotating moment to see how much weight is being transfered during breaking. But I'd rather not, not in that class anymore. The cost is about the same depending if I get new or remaned. Wondering if it is possible to have too much breaking power? If I don't need it and install the more powerful booster will it cause the breaks to lock up more often? Its a daily driver so the breaks really need to work right. I'm planning on doing this, this weekend so and comments are much appreciated.

Thanks
Here's the swap page It's about 1/3 the way down and in a lighter shade background.

A couple of tips, the double flare required for a brake line, can be a pain. All brake line, isn´t created equal, and some is harder to bend and flare than others. A single type flare, can crack and isn´t really safe.
I´ve used, a thick piece of welding rod, bent into the shape I want and taken it, to a brake shop and had them make the finshed piece ( a little longer than necessary). Some adjsutments by hand (with feeling) will take care of the fine adjsutments at installation.
If space allows, a loop, somewhere in the middle of the brake line, makes life a lot easier, when trying to screw the fittings in.

The single state booster sucks. If you have to replace anyway, by all means do the conversion.

Thanks guys, I was planning on doing it anyway but glad to see that its seen as a good idea.

I put a 95 booster & master cylinder set on my 94. Big difference, well worth the effort.

The 94 m/c uses SAE fittings, the 95 used metric. I picked up a couple of adapters (so I could use SAE fittings on the lines) at the auto parts shop and made my own lines down to the prop valve (okay, now it's an adjustable.)