lift block/shim question..

I'll be installing my Dana 44 rear this weekend!
I'm currently running a 3* shim for my 8.25 to get the pinion angle correct to my SYE.
I wanted to use a set of 1" tapered blocks when I install the 44, but I'm not sure they're tapered enough to correct the angle if used alone. The blocks are cast iron(?) from RE, and the shims are steel. Should I try to weld them together? JB weld? Leave them both floating and held by the u-bolts?
TIA!

BIll if it were me, I'd have to seriously consider cutting the lift blocks so they have the correct angle, just to eliminate a joint you really don't need.
I know ya wanna get that '44 in so option #2 IMHO would be to try & tack weld the steel shim to the cast block - it can be done.

I posted on the JU forum about your 8.25 - too bad you're so far away else I'd take it off your hands, but if for some unforseen reason it doesn't sell I would be very interested in the Auburn

Personally, I'd recommend forgetting the block, but I hate blocks.

You have to be sure the two pieces will stay together and stay in place. You can't just slide them in and hope the U-bolts will hold them, 'cause it ain't gonna happen. JB Weld? Dunno ... but I have reservations. Welding is best, but welding mild steel to cast iron is tricky. But that's the best of the possibilities you've offered.

welding cast to mild

If you are gonna go the welding route, don't use a MIG. I've seen plenty of successful MIG jobs, but it takes skill. I have welded quite a few spring-over perches on the tops of Waggy D44's using a high Nickel content welding rod, at 120 amps on my little stick welder. Haven't had a problem with one yet and its much easier. Just thought you should know...

Scott

Bill- The 6* shims I had to use to correct the pinion angle on my 44 are making my life miserable. The wedges keep spitting out, breaking the leaf spring center pin and allowing the u-bolts to come loose. I couldn't imagine wht it would be like with a shim AND a block in there. I regularly retorque those u-bolt nuts and they still come loose.

If you have access to a welder the best thing to do would be to cut the perches off and weld them back at the correct angle. While you are at it you can shorten up those lower shock mounts and weld them back on so the shocks don't bind at the correct pinion angle. Also get some bigger lift springs so you don't need to use those axle wrapping lift blocks.

Handlebars said:

Bill- The 6* shims I had to use to correct the pinion angle on my 44 are making my life miserable. The wedges keep spitting out, breaking the leaf spring center pin and allowing the u-bolts to come loose. I couldn't imagine wht it would be like with a shim AND a block in there. I regularly retorque those u-bolt nuts and they still come loose.

If you have access to a welder the best thing to do would be to cut the perches off and weld them back at the correct angle. While you are at it you can shorten up those lower shock mounts and weld them back on so the shocks don't bind at the correct pinion angle. Also get some bigger lift springs so you don't need to use those axle wrapping lift blocks.

Click to expand...

Alex-
I know the new springs would be the ideal fix. I was thinking the block may actually HELP prevent spring wrap, though. As you know, the XJ 44 has a very short spring perch compared to the 8.25 or even the D35. I've already raised the shock mounts.
Cutting or grinding the block to the right angle seems to be a workable solution, and just toss the shim. any ideas how to get the angle correct on both of them?

Done! xjnation and I did a little creative work with a grinder and belt sander, and I now have a set of 5* 1" blocks.

Bill- bolt those things to the leaf spring with the center pin. Then retorque the u bolt nuts after every 'wheeling trip. You will be surprised at how quickly they loosen up with a wedge sandwiched between the axle and spring! 70 ft/lbs works for me. Any more and you will bend the spring plate.

Bill- bolt those things to the leaf spring with the center pin. Then retorque the u bolt nuts after every 'wheeling trip. You will be surprised at how quickly they loosen up with a wedge sandwiched between the axle and spring! 70 ft/lbs works for me. Any more and you will bend the spring plate.

I ran my 2" taperd RE blocks for 3 years without any probs, but yes I did retorque teh ubolts about avery 30 days at first then after the first year every 6 months, after a few months they never moved again