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Replacing the clutch

Bell housing too has to come off. Replacement is fairly straight forward. You will need a pilot tool to make sure it goes on straight. Might need to resurface the flywheel if it's got any big gouges, wear marks or such in it just like brake rotors. If you pull the flywheel MARK IT and use new bolts when reinstalling, torque to specs. Remove the CPS BEFORE you remove that bellhousing.
The clutch is one of those 'get it done by a good mechanic' things. Maybe if I had a garage I'd do it myself. This is also one of those Dealer OEM things as far as parts are concerned IMO. You don't want one of those 3 fingered High Performance clutches either.

Let me stress the 'Mark it' unless you want to end up reindexing the flywheel, the hall effect magnets need to be in the same spot on the flywheel as they were when you pulled it off.
 
OK... here's the kicker.... temporarily I'm operating with one less finger (middle right hand is missing a nail and it makes ut hard to use as it's still healing).... in any case, how do I check that my clutch is going bad? I think it might be slipping and I wanna do it before it goes too bad (one time... many moons ago I let it go to far on my 86 and it go really expensive) but then again I don't want to do it too early on the other hand (as it when it's not needed) as I might have someone do it for me...

Kejtar
 
The only way I know is to look at it, all my other vechicles had an access panel you could remove but not the XJ though if you are a contortionist you might be able to get a look at it thru the CPS slot with one of those scope things like butt doctors use :D Prolly need the type "A" tip :D :D
[all type A's that I know are tight asses]..
I noticed that first thing in the morning or late at nite, since it got cold up here, my XJ does a surging things for the first couple of stop signs in my development. But it seems more associated with the TPS I think than the clutch as it goes away afer about 4 or 5 minutes of running.
 
RichP said:
The only way I know is to look at it, all my other vechicles had an access panel you could remove but not the XJ though if you are a contortionist you might be able to get a look at it thru the CPS slot with one of those scope things like butt doctors use :D Prolly need the type "A" tip :D :D
[all type A's that I know are tight asses]..
I noticed that first thing in the morning or late at nite, since it got cold up here, my XJ does a surging things for the first couple of stop signs in my development. But it seems more associated with the TPS I think than the clutch as it goes away afer about 4 or 5 minutes of running.

Yours sounds like the slave cylinder, thats exactly how mine acted until I got it warmed up after a cold winter morning in Texas.
 
XJCHUCK72 said:
Are you sure it's the clutch or the slave cylinder? When mine went out about two years ago, I thought it was the clutch since I had about 120K on it. I found out it was the slave cylinder and the clutch was fine. I did however replace the cluthch since I was in there and all.
Can you elaborate a littble bit more?? How do I test it, and where it's at??
 
XJCHUCK72 said:
Man!! :rolleyes:

Do you have a chiltons, I think I got my diag from there.
LOL... ok... I can find it, but how do I test it :D any hints??? I have had too many beers by now to attempt walking down the stairs to the garage to look at my books :D
 
We'll see, I have tuesday set aside for a really full maintenance day, got a full service bay at a friends garage including use of all the flushing machines and lift. Cooling system first. One of the things I want to do is flush and replace all the brake fluid and I may do the slave cylinder while it's up there. Going to start at the front of the FSM and work to the rear. Be nice to do the diffs standing up for a change. Things I gotta do and things I want to do.
 
Your just assuming I'm sober, huh!

From my memory, it was just something as simple as being able to shift from 1st to 5th and to R, with the egine running.



How many miles, if it's over the 120k and if you have that wonderful stop and go trafic, it may just be the cylinder.

All I can say is, does it get better as you drive or is it slipping all the time.
 
XJCHUCK72 said:
All I can say is, does it get better as you drive or is it slipping all the time.

Well, it drives without any problems in general, but..... when I had to pass someone and squeeze back in, when I hit the "pedal to the metal" it hesitated for a short period of time (a second ??) and then it did what it was supposed to. It shifts fine, and drives fine, unless I need to accelerate suddendly.
 
I think you can pull the starter to get a peek in the bell but I’m not sure whether you could conclusively determine if the thing is whacked from doing this.
 
Kejtar said:
Well, it drives without any problems in general, but..... when I had to pass someone and squeeze back in, when I hit the "pedal to the metal" it hesitated for a short period of time (a second ??) and then it did what it was supposed to. It shifts fine, and drives fine, unless I need to accelerate suddendly.

What gear was this in? When you say it "hesitated," what does that mean?

It's extremely unlikely that your clutch could be so far gone as to slip under full power yet drive normally and smoothly under all other conditions. However, I have had that happen -- in a slightly modified 390 c.i.d. AMX 4-speed that I bought used. The previous owner had the clutch replaced by his brother-in-law (always the kiss of death). I guess the guy just threw in an off-the-shelf 10" rebuilt clutch for a "Rambler."

It drove fine, it shifted easily, there was no chatter or anything to indicate a problem. Until one day I did as you describe, and dropped the hammer. At 60 MPH in 4th gear, when I nailed the skinny pedal the clutch gave up and started spinning. But ... when that happens it doesn't "hesitate for a second and then go." Once the clutch starts slipping, it'll keep on spinning until you let off the gas and it hooks up again.

What you are describing sounds more like an engine or ignition problem, and nothing related to the clutch.
 
It's very hard to describe eagle. The only way I would imagive how to replicate this behaviour on a fully functional vehicle would be to drive at whatever constant speed and then when I want to accelerate, I would hit both the clutch and gas hard and let go of the clutch gently (but fast).

Not getting away from simulations and to a detailed description what I am doing though:
When I drive at a particular even speed (I have noticed it in 4th and 5th gears, but I will play with others as well tomorrow) when I want to accelarate and I hit the gas hard the RPM's jump up by 500 to 800 for about a minute while the vehicle slows down (kind of like you press the clutch in) and then it catches and goes like it used to...
 
Ah, so, Grasshopper.

If the engine speeds up while the vehicle remains at constant speed (or slows down), then clearly the engine is no longer connected to the drive wheels. Since that connection is your clutch, it would appear that you are facing a clutch replacement.
 
Eagle said:
Ah, so, Grasshopper.

If the engine speeds up while the vehicle remains at constant speed (or slows down), then clearly the engine is no longer connected to the drive wheels. Since that connection is your clutch, it would appear that you are facing a clutch replacement.

LOL.. ok so now that I'm back to square one, any hints?? :D
 
I've had the clutch out 2X on my MJ...once in my buddies shop w/ a lift and air tools, and most recently on my back on the floor of a garage. I'd say it's not something you'd want to try while your finger is on the DL....
It's alot easier on a rack, but can be done on the ground if you have to, but the trick is to get the vehicle as high off the ground as is safely possible so you have comfortable room to work underneath. Some things I learned:
1. Remove the TC from the trans before pulling the trans off. It adds alot of weight, and makes reinstalling the trans a big PITA.
2. Trans jack is highly recommended if doing it on the ground. It's not essential, but makes life alot easier.
3. The trans crossmember is NOT symmetrical, even thought it looks like it is. Mark it so you reinstall it in the correct position.
4. Take the extra time to resurface the flywheel and install a new pilot bearing. I wasn't happy with the first install of the new clutch (it still chattered a tiny bit) but I didn't have the flywheel turned, I just cleaned it w/ brake cleaner. Second time around I pulled it and had it machined for $30. I've never had a smoother clutch in my MJ as I do now. Do index it so that you reinstall it correctly like Rich said (very inportant) Some had staggered flywheel bolts or an alignment dowel to make sure it only went on one way, but mine didn't have either.
6. Torque specs are important. Put your beer-muscles on for the flywheel bolts 'cause they take alot. The clutch cover bolts should be tightened in a criss-cross pattern to 80ft/lb IIRC. I did mine in 3 steps to prevent warping.
5. Allow plenty of time in case you run into a snag or two. It's not hard work, just alot of it.
I'm sure there's other important things someone will chime in with...these few just stick in my mind. Hope they help ya!
JEff
 
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