Hub Conversion .... yes I did a search

Short version:
Where can I get the rotors for a MM hub conversion (full cast w/ .25" thick mounting flange). .125" thick cast rotors that fit a Warn kit don't work... trust me.



Long Version:
I decided to go ahead and do a hub conversion on my XJ. Being the cheap bastar* that I am, I went ahead and ordered the milemarker kit instead of the Warn kit. I got the Milemarker kit from Sams 4x4 out of Ok. Cost me $580 to the door. Uses almost the same parts as the warn kit, but the outers aren't hardned like the Warn kit. Warn kit usually runs $800 or more plus shipping.

Anyway, instructions call for a new full castrotor with a .25" mounting flange. Most stockers are composite or .125" thick (weaker). Well, I decided to get the rotors from a local place to save $$. I told them I needed rotors for the MM kit, and specified that they needed the .25" thick flange. I even emailed them a copy of the instructions which detail exactly what I need. They assured me several times that the .125" rotors would work so I decided to trust them and go with it.

When I got the rotors from them, had them machined (center must be machined to fit around the hub) and tried to put it all together. Of course they don't work .

With the kit, the wheel stud presses through the back of the rotor into the hub piece holding the rotor on. Well, the wheel stud has a small lip on it at the end right before the head of the stud that is thicker than the hole in the hub piece, but perfect for the rotor. This lip is .25" long, hence the need for the .25" thick rotor. So as we are trying to press everything in we notice that the rotor won't sit flush, and the lip is the reason why.

So I brought the rotors back to the local shop where they tried to give me crap, even though they are the ones that sold me the wrong part. Actually, the guy that sold me the rotors was very understanding, his boss (I believe the owner) was kinda a tool about the whole thing, but I'm getting my money back so it's no biggie.

Anyway, I'm calling MM on monday to find out exactly which rotors I need. Instructions have a ITT part number, which is something I am unfamilar with. Hopefully they can tell me a place that sells the correct rotors, and hopefully once I have them I'll also be able to get them locally for replacements.

Moral of the story .... well I don't know what the moral is. Maybe the moral is I should have gotten the Warn kit, maybe I should have saved up the money for a 44. But if I can't easily find the rotors I'll be sending the MM kit back and doing something else.

If you are bored, here is a link to the first 2 pages of the instructions...
http://www.patricksnorton.com/jeepmanuals/hubkit.pdf

If you know where I can get the proper rotors, please, for the love of god, let me know....

I didn't read the link and this probably won't help but....

The stock rotors off my '89 are 1/2" thick at the flange and are offset 2 5/8" from the back of the flange to the, I guess it would be inside, edge of the rotor.

I just decided to check warn's site and see if this helps.

(Full cast rotor ITT PN 65225, Wagner PN BD125039, Raybestos PN 7142).

http://products.warn.com/warn.nsf/w...y&src=/warn.nsf/pages/TruckProducts.Main.html

Lincoln

I got my machined rotors for the Warn kit from Tri County Gear in Pomona, CA. They were about $100 each.

Good luck with the MM stuff.

There is a story of my MM conversion...

I got MM for 630 , rotors were 21 a piece machine work 130 for both. LF rotor was warped (bad casting), had to turn it (removed .040") after that it was ok. Pressing rotors and hubs together was done using spare lug nuts and lots of antisize ...No problem with fitting those studs through the rotor. No gaps between rotor and hub. I called MM and asked them if outters are heat treaded, they are (trust me ) They are not alloy like Warn but they are stronger that OEM stub shafts. I had very little problems with installing MM conversion. The weak link in MM is lockout hub....Tested MM conversion and blew one on the trail (had spare ) no damage to outter stub shaft. Big bonus is 20 MPG I am getting now (with 180 degree t-stat which tends to richen the mixture a bit because eng runs cooler) ....
Rotors I bought were Raymond with .25 thick flange....I should have gone with Wagner, but HEY 21 vs 43 bucks is a bit better.
Dont blaime MM for their product....it is just fine, might be a bit weaker that Warn but you get what you pay for!
Always carry spare lockout hub and you'll be all set.
Good luck!

Lincoln
Yeah but thats for the warn kit. MM only lists the ITT part number. Anyway. I got some with the raybestos part number and they were only .125" thick.

98, I'm not blaming MM. I'm sure it's a good kit. I'm just flustered cause I can't seem to find the rotors at any local places... Where did you buy yours?

I just read your link. Since the ITT part number is the same then the Wagner and Raybestos should be also. Almost any parts store should be able to cross reference the Wagner to theirs.

Good luck. Isn't bolt on equipment fun?

Lincoln

Lincoln said:

I just read your link. Since the ITT part number is the same then the Wagner and Raybestos should be also. Almost any parts store should be able to cross reference the Wagner to theirs.

Good luck. Isn't bolt on equipment fun?

Lincoln

Click to expand...

That what I thought till the dang local guys gave me the raybestos ones that aren't the right thickness..... any chance raybestos makes 2 versions of them or something?

NAPAONLINE.COM

21 bucks for rotors......
I bought mine at NAPA store (look for the cheapest price among frnt rotors)
Good luck.

CAST IRON ROTOR is very cheap to make!!! Price should be low as well!

.

I'm sure they make several different ones. When did they go to the composite rotors?

My guess is the cast ones you are looking for are for a Jeep just prior to that. Also check for a '95 Wrangler. I think I remember my dad's YJ rotors being thinner than the older XJ's and they were cast also.

Lincoln

When I shoped for rotors, I loked up under 98 Cherokee

There were 4-5 options (dont remember all) but one of them was brute stop for 110-115 bucks WOW!
and another one (attracted my attention) was 21 bucks cast iron rotor. Asked sale rep to compare cast iron one with compasite they were identical (only the flange was .25 thick on cast iron)
Compare parts when you shop for new rotors, it helps a lot

If ya give up on your MM kit lemme know - I'll take that headache off of your hands