failed state inspection due to e-brake not holding - help!

Okay, so Cl. Steve passed everything with flying colors EXCEPT the parking / e-brake didn't hold, so I failed. The rears have been kinda sticky of late (just like mentioned in that other thread), but I don't drive the Cherokee that much of the summer, so I just chocked it up to sitting. This not holding the car thing suprised me. Anyway, what should I look for when I get under it to fix. What might I need to replace - the cable, adjusters? I'm thinking that it's likely something to do with the cable of the adjusters as the rears, though very old, can still lock the wheels in dry pavement.
As always, thanks!
-Tom

If your parking brake is going all the way to the stop. It´s probably a cable adjustment or the shoes are really worn. Sometimes one cable pulls more than the other, one brake shoe isn´t gonna get the job done.
Have seen the inside of the cable sleeve in the rear, full of rust, jams the cable. The cable sleeve sometimes rubs through, have a close look.
Before you tighten the parking brake cable, have a look at the shoes, this is often a sign, it´s time for a new set.
My local inspection, requires a run on the brake machine. They test the parking brake for equal pull and 60% braking (60% of what, who knows?). A trick I use, is to sand the drum with 100 grit coated sandpaper, both directions at a 45% angle (cross pattern) same with the shoes. Takes the glaze off and makes them work really well for awhile (old trick from the Dodge truck manual of the 70´s)(keeps the inspector happy). As long as I have the drums off anyway, I wash everything on the backing plate, with a mild soap solution and hot water (use a bottle brush or stiff parts brush). Gets rid of the salt, dust and sand. Rinse with hot water. Crack the dust boots on the wheel cylinder to check for seepage, check the axle seal for seepage, grease the adjusters and shoe contact patches (on the backing plate) and you´ve done half of a bi-yearly brake service.

I'd guess all you need is a few turns of the cable adjusting bolts, nothing to buy, nothing to replace, nothing to take off, you don't even have to jack anything up Crawl under and look up in the tunnel where the e-brake lever comes through the floor and you'll see the cable and the adjusting bolts. 8Mud's suggestions are all good and you ought to look at those shoes like he says, the pads are probably getting thin, but if you're like me right now you just want to get past inspection. Tighten them adjusting bolts up and get your sticker, and then maybe take a closer look at the rear brakes.

thanks for the info so far guys. i'll be crawling under there first thing tomorrow to see what i can see. hoping it just needs some adjusting. yes 92xjsp, I'd just like to get past inspection. I still can't believe it passed emissions!
-Tom

Dont forget to pull up on your e-brake handle three or four clicks before you adjust.

Not to Hijack a thread, but for those of you that have vehicle inspections in your state, how particular are they and how much crap do they inspect? It sounds like a real PIA but in MN we don't have vehicle or emissions testing and I am just kind of curious

it all depends of what day of the month you go. if there really busy they might just glance at every thing. around here i have had them complain about tint and mud flaps just cuze thats what cops notice first.

JBrobeck said:

Not to Hijack a thread, but for those of you that have vehicle inspections in your state, how particular are they and how much crap do they inspect? It sounds like a real PIA but in MN we don't have vehicle or emissions testing and I am just kind of curious

Click to expand...

It depends on the state. When I lived in Illinois, the emissions test at the time was a visual inspection to verify the engine was generally in OEM condition, the exhaust had cat., and that the unleaded fuel restrictor in the gas tank filler pipe was present. Then they did an idling emissions measurement at the tailpipe, and that was it.

In Arizona, where I live now, they do a different emissions measurement, wherein they run the vehicle on a chassis dynamometer at both 50 mph, and at a lower speed as well. This type of test does a MUCH better job of finding vehicles that don't meet the emissions standards set forth by the U.S. EPA

AZ Jeff said:

It depends on the state. When I lived in Illinois, the emissions test at the time was a visual inspection to verify the engine was generally in OEM condition, the exhaust had cat., and that the unleaded fuel restrictor in the gas tank filler pipe was present. Then they did an idling emissions measurement at the tailpipe, and that was it.

In Arizona, where I live now, they do a different emissions measurement, wherein they run the vehicle on a chassis dynamometer at both 50 mph, and at a lower speed as well. This type of test does a MUCH better job of finding vehicles that don't meet the emissions standards set forth by the U.S. EPA

Click to expand...

The Chicago area does the dyno tests for non OBD-II vehicles. And it can be a short or long test. OBD-II vehicles I think just get a diagnostic machine hooked up initially.

If you can still lock the wheels on dry pavement with the E-brake, it's probably just an adjustment. E-brake cables sometimes freeze in the sheath if not used on a regular basis.

I pull the brake on all of my vehicles when I park just to keep the cables from freezing up. How many times do people go in for an inspection and the inspector stomps on the e-brake pedal....yup it holds. You drive home and the brake shoes are smoking cuz it wouldn't release. I hate it when that happens....shoes cracked and drums blued.

As Tom C already stated, pull the handle up three or four clicks and then adjust.

Good luck,
Jay in MA

All fixed

Took it to my friends shop and put it on the lift. After noticing that my valve cover was not leaking, but SPEWING oil, we went to work on the rear brakes. Turns out the "self adjusters" were frozen. Un-froze em and tightened up the rear brakes a bit and bam, good to go. And I am stickered until next October. Thing is, my rear brakes my really have not been working, because braking performance is noticibly better now.
-Tom

glad to hear you got it fixed, in the future if you have problems, move to MI where nobody cares how bad your junk is.