Going taller to 4.5"+ got questions

OK, got some $$ that I didn't expect (not that much.... but it all kind of added up), so I'm thinking about going taller sooner then I thought I might be able to.

Anyways, currently I have 3.5" RE pack in the rear which sits at aout 4.25" ~ 4.5" without tools and extra junk in there (just the spare) and front is still the UC coils with the poly spacer. Also I got SYE so vibes shouldn't be an issue, and the shocks... well, I should be kind of ok in the front temporarily but rears should be fine for a while.

OK, so I'm thinking that the following might be my plan in order to end up with 4.5" ~ 5" (btw, I expect rear to settle a bit more, plus I expect to keep some of the tools in all the time so it'd be sitting lower from that as well):

RE1660 Extra H.D. Track Bar and the RE1665 bracket (btw, is there much benefit here over the standard RE1600 Track Bar?)
RE2700 1.25" lift Shackle
RE3715 Control Arm SF2 Lower ADJ
RE3780 Control Arm SF2 Upper Ft ADJ
RE1310 Coil Springs XJ 4.5"

Option two includes using the following as it comes in the 4.5" kit RE offers
CONTROL ARM SF2 LOWER FIXED 1
CONTROL ARM SR2 UPPER FT FIX
as I don't plan to go past 4.5" ~ 5" for a long time (famous last words? LOL) I know adjustable gives me more control... but...... $$

Potentially I'm looking to see if I can just relocate front brake lines (they seem awfully long for stock) or maybe get longer brake lines...... Btw, rear already has a YJ brake line so I should be fine on that. Also since I'm doing the arms, I might as well deal with the bushings so I'm gonna order a set of front upper (axle end) bushings).

What do you guys think about this setup? Is there anything that I am forgetting or missing?? I know there must be... please point it out if you see it

Yes, the extra HD track bar is night and day better than the other RE one. The upper joint flexes in the right direction, unlike the stocker and the cheaper RE. Also, it is much quieter and has greater adjustablity.

Since you don't have drop brackets, I would say get at least one set of ADJ control arms. Personally, I don't think it really matters whether it is upper or lower. With the CA's at that much angle, you may need the extra adjustablilty to get the caster aligned correctly.

I don't know the part #'s, but make sure that the lowers are the super-flex arms. They are noisier but they flex much better. I've heard that the flex arms aren't as critical on the uppers, but I am not sure about that.

Good luck, Jared

Color me stupid, but ... you are now at 4.25" to 4.5", and you plan to add 1.25" in order to achieve 4.5" to 5"?

4.25 + 1.25 = 5.5

4.5 + 1.25 = 5.75

MJ (or Chevy Z71 PU) shackles add about 1/2" -- why not go with them?

4.25 + 0.5 = 4.75

Some people claim the Z71 shackles add 3/4" which would put you right on 5". I bought a set used and they were within 1/16 of the length of new MJ shackles, so I passed 'em on. I was told they were Chevy Z71 but they may have been from some other PU.

Eagle said:

Color me stupid, but ... you are now at 4.25" to 4.5", and you plan to add 1.25" in order to achieve 4.5" to 5"?

4.25 + 1.25 = 5.5

4.5 + 1.25 = 5.75

MJ (or Chevy Z71 PU) shackles add about 1/2" -- why not go with them?

4.25 + 0.5 = 4.75

Some people claim the Z71 shackles add 3/4" which would put you right on 5". I bought a set used and they were within 1/16 of the length of new MJ shackles, so I passed 'em on. I was told they were Chevy Z71 but they may have been from some other PU.

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Eagle... it's called the weight of tools and bumper in the long run math I am getting 4.25" out of 3.5" leaves..... if I throw all my crap in there.. well, those 4.25" will become probably 4" if not less then that and with bumper.... see where I'm going?? Anyways, the rear shackle would be one of hte last things going on as I got my rear angles setup and so on, so I won't mess with that unless I need to...... but anyways less then 4" + 1.25" is about 5" plus I will have still the poly spacer for the front if I wanna use it to even things out

DeadEyeJ said:

Yes, the extra HD track bar is night and day better than the other RE one. The upper joint flexes in the right direction, unlike the stocker and the cheaper RE. Also, it is much quieter and has greater adjustablity.

Since you don't have drop brackets, I would say get at least one set of ADJ control arms. Personally, I don't think it really matters whether it is upper or lower. With the CA's at that much angle, you may need the extra adjustablilty to get the caster aligned correctly.

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ok, in that case one of the scenarios I will consider is lower fixed uppers adjustable as they don't have uppers fixed of the SF flavour (at least I couldn't find them on their website....)
comments on this one anyone??

Remi, sounds like you're on the right track. Use LCAs to determine wheelbase, UCAs to control caster. The HD trackbar and bracket is definately worth it as was said above. I wish I didn't have the 1600 already, or I would get the HD one. I'm personally running adj uppers and lowers and like the control it gives me. I went up to 6.5" and then back to 4.5 and had the freedom to move thing around the way I wanted. The price difference between adj lowers and fixed lowers is 50$. That's a hunk of change, I'll give you that. But in the grand scheme of things, is it really that much?? Also, unless you're in a hurry, wait for used stuff. I picked up my TB and both sets of adjustable arms on here for 200$( ) All they needed were the rebuild kits which cost 16$ per set. Anyway, good luck with everything, and if you need prices on RE stuff, hit me back channel, I know a guy....

Ary

Kejtar said:

ok, in that case one of the scenarios I will consider is lower fixed uppers adjustable as they don't have uppers fixed of the SF flavour (at least I couldn't find them on their website....)
comments on this one anyone??

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Look at the components of the RE6130 4.5" Super-Flex...they use SR UCAs and SF LCAs - neither of them are adjustable although I upgraded mine to the Adjustable LCA. I don't see the advantage of adjusting both UCA and LCA though unless you need to extend your whelbase. Having one adjustable will allow you to control caster to a degree.

Remi-
I did the same "upgrade" as you're doing now. I started with a 3.5" RE lift, and have added components to make it close to 5".
I did use the HD trackbar, and added a set of adjustable uppers and the drop brackets. I didn't NEED the adustable arms, but that was the only way to get the SF joint. I think I have them set to the shortest setting after I installed the drop brackets.
The RE shackle will NOT give you 1.25"! It's more like 3/4" on mine anyway. I installed a set of ACOS in the front to go with the 3.5" coils, and did a shock mount conversion in the rear to use the same ones I had.
HTH

Bill

Remi,

I did a similar altitude adjustment on my '99.

Up front the brake lines should be ok as long as you unbolt them from the unibody....the rear will need to be replaced if it's still stock.

I'm running the Tera shackles (almost 2" over Stock) and the RE 3.5 Coils up front with a 1.75" RE spacer.

I'm actually selling the leaves and coils and going with the RE extreme Duty 4.5" rear Springs and ZJ 4.5" coils without a spacer when the Clayton Kit goes in a few weeks from now (may as well get another inch out of this when we go LA).

Here are some pics of it with 32BFG KM's and no trimming (ooooof) and loaded up.
Pics w/ 32 BFG's

Everything looks good, don't go cheap, like mentioned above. All in all when and if later you do go higher, you'll be able to get back most of what you paid for those arms if you had to resell them.

BillR said:

The RE shackle will NOT give you 1.25"! It's more like 3/4" on mine anyway.

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Lemme guess then in that case it's not 1.25" of lift but 1.25" longer then stuck thus giving half of it on lift....

Hmm.... I will have to do some more thinking on this as I'd like to lift now before the money I got ends up going to different causes (like paying that damn ticket I got in Barstow) but... I don't have enough to get all of this at once (btw... I seem to have bad luck with used stuff recently... each time I buy a used suspension component I have more trouble then it's worth it!
Anyways, I'm thinking that I might start off with the regular track bar and then later on upgrade and this will end up giving me some $$ to play....... oh and yeah... I don't believe in ordering goodies and having them lay in the garage till I get the rest of things... once I get something, I wil put it in

I don't think that there is any need to get the drop bracket right away. Not to say that its not really nice, but its not like its paramount. How often do you max out the limits of the heim with a short lift anyway?

Kejtar said:

Lemme guess then in that case it's not 1.25" of lift but 1.25" longer then stuck thus giving half of it on lift....

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Just an example...
I just measured mine along side of a stocker of the same year. With a 3.5" spring pack, the RE shackle, and a 2* shim, I'm sitting at 4.5" over stock in the rear. That's WITH a tire carrier and a few tools in the back. Mine's been wheeled and flexed a good bit, too.
Your results may vary...

Lucas said:

I don't think that there is any need to get the drop bracket right away. Not to say that its not really nice, but its not like its paramount. How often do you max out the limits of the heim with a short lift anyway?

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Yeah... I want to stay away from the drop bracket for as long as I can, as I have a tendency of beating up on components hanging low..... my stock arm brackets are the living proof of that and that's why I want to take them further away from the ground...

Can I get away without doing front steering for about a month to two months after I lift??? I know I will do it... but..... you know how it goes (my money printer ran out of ink LOL)

OEM steering can be run up to 8", obvisiously it is not recomended. I'm at 6.5" and I still have my OEM. No DW but bumpsteer is there. If your only shooting for 4.5-5" of lift, then OEM will work, just ask Jes. He creamed a ton of OEM tie rods, made them look like a limp noodles.

Just be sure to have a backup, you should be able to get a hold at most junkyards.

OK... I can do with cheap backups in the beginning cool... thanks for the info!