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flushing frame rails

CStamm

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Leeport, PA
Do any of you guys ever clean out your frame rails after running in the mud or silt? I'm sure there is all kinds of crap in there, accelerating the rusting process. I thought I once read of a guy who flushed them out with a hose the best he could, anyone do this or something simliar?
 
I haven't done it. Never heard of anyone doing it either. Looks like you are in virgin territory. Figure it out and tell us how it's done.

RR3
 
Nope - haven't flushed them, but just sprayed them full of gear oil this weekend - getting ready for the rust season.
 
I think I like Yukon's idea better than mine. Maybe flush them out with water, let them dry up real good, then squirt them with some gear oil.
 
Don't change the rear main seal. That will oil it from the firewall back.

:D
 
I flush mine at least once a year by parking rear-down (my driveway works) and working a full flow garden hose into the UCA bolt hole (inside the front fenders) --

In spring I'll add a little "detergent", since the yahoo's here started spraying magnesium chloride hexahydrate onto everything -- I use a siphon to add detergent to the water stream then "walk" down the length of the unibody hoding my hand and/or a sponge over the major holes trying to get the flow as far rearward as is possible -- lots of stuff left in the driveway each time. Turning the ride around and firing water/detergent from the bumper ends of the uni-frame gives-up a little more silt...

Don't bother with a pressure washer - it's the flow volume that does the work (unless you can remote a 360* washer head down into the frame...!)

- a good rinse and drying time is a must before fogging the rail with a your favorite anti corrosive (e.g.:Boeshield T-9, wd40, leaky rear mainseal, or whatever)...

Ever thought about foaming the interior of the uni-rails (as in GM's Cadiallacs?) nice and quiet, stronger, less accumulation of crud... ?
 
thanks alot satan!! LOL That's what I wanted to hear, I figured someone out there was doing it. I will try and clean mine out before snow season.

As for this foaming the rails.... I actually thought of this before. At work we have a packaging machine that produces packaging foam. It is essentially two chemicals, that when combined, turn to a nice expanding foam. I've thougt about spraying it in the frame rails more than once. Dunno if it would have any adverse effects, and once its done, you won't ever get it all out.
 
also satan, which is better in your opinion? The good 'ole WD40 or the more expensive Boeshield T9?
 
Expense? yeah - either or - and there are others -- I'd prolly go with a Marine engine pickling or something - I'm on the last bottl of Boeshield so it'll be decision time soon -- the drawback on the Boshield is that it's a penetrant as well - so things can/may work loose or not be retained quite as well...

The Foam - figure the water content of the cured foam, and it's potential for water incorporation/saturation -- AND you'll need to ensure that it bonds to the inside of the tubes, otherwise you'll end-up with something akin to a sponge holding water against the inside of the rails = not a good thing. It'll prolly be an issue if it burns/flashes at a realtively low temp (or gives off death-gas) since your cat/exhaust is so nearby...
 
I stuck a garden hose in the holes in the frame rails after driving on the beach. My driveway was covered in sand. The foam crossed my mind as well, but the sponge theory also did. Someone said ATF was good for coating, that it crawls up the sides well. How would you spray it? Ive heard of chassis wax , it was used in a show where they rebuilt a Jag e-type.

Ive asked other xj owners when they have cut out their rusted-through floors and nobody said the found that much rust in the rails, if any.
 
ya, the more I thought about the foam idea, the worse I realized it was.
Satan, what is Marine engine pickling ? Boeshield seems good, but as you said, it is a penetrant.
ylojelo, let me know if you find anything out about the ATF.
 
About 3 months ago I was blessed with finding two 2 door XJs. One is an 84, the other is a 85. Now the bad part, I live in Illinois. So have these trucks all these long years. Floors completely gone. Went to replace floor, couldnt weld to frame because it is rust almost all the ways through. Welder blasted staright through. So if the previous owner had washed frame and or even better, sealed it. Then this great 4X4 would have a lot of time left, unfortunatly he did not and looks like just going to be chicago winter beater. Oh well whatcha gonna do???
 
I'm not positive but I think XJguy did the foam thing in his low rider project. I seem to remember he did alot of research on it.
Also with that two part packing foam you need to watch it, it expands quite a bit and if you put enough inside a frame rail you could run the risk of expanding the rail. I would think you would need some kind of long extension that you would insert at the rear or front frame rail all the way to the the opposite end and then start pulling out, as soon as you hit the trigger, at a controlled speed, too fast and not enough foam, too slow and too much. We used the same stuff to build packaging for PC's with forms and very thin pvc sheets. Need a foam mix that is not hydroscopic.
 
I´ve used various foams on some of my projects (mostly body panels), most seem to absorb water to one degree or another (and smell pretty bad after awhile). And if you ever do have to weld, it´s really a mess, it lights on fire and produces toxic fumes. Been there done that, no more.
I bought an undercoating gun, with a three foot extension (fairly stiff plastic tube) for spraying inside things ( I made an even longer extension). I use compressed air and the undercoating gun as kind of a solvent sprayer, except I spray Simple Green. The soap soaks into the mud and loosen things up and them can be washed out with a garden hose or high presure cleaner.
I´ve used bio-degradable chain saw oil and boiled Lindseed oil as a rust inhibitor. The boiled Linseed oil lasts for years and gets into every crack and crevice. A caution, any kind of oil in a vapor or mist is explosive. After the boiled Linseed oil has dried, it´s as hard to get out of your clothes, as undercoating or paint.
 
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Might want to check on some Land Rover boards about a produst called WaxOyl. The stuff has a penetrant quality, that will seep into the seams, then the solvent evaporates leaving a parrafin coating.

I have seen some "home-brew" that used mineral spirits and candle wax to do this.
 
A caution, any kind of oil in a vapor or mist is explosive.

I don't mean to hijack the thread, but when I read that I remembered this...

I was a submarine officer in a previous life and I was browsing one of the service's propaganda rags when I read that some old salt had won ten grand by submitting a cost-saving idea. His notion was to replace the drip-lubrication on the drive components in destroyer engines with a pressurized mist. Some number-cruncher at the GSA figured out that it would save a hundred thousand over a few years by using less lubricant, so the sailor got ten percent of the savings.

I was aghast when I read it and took to the engineer types on the boat and they laughed, too. We were all certain that this would never really get implemented, that someone would see the obvious. We couldn't tell anybody else about it, we were on patrol.

This hare-brained scheme actually got tested -- with totally predictable results. No one was seriously hurt, fortunately, but the ship involved suffered major damage.

I don't know if the sailor got to keep his ten grand...

We now return you to your regular thread.
 
I understand and can appreciate the dangers of a petroleum distillate mist - using rattle cans and/or paint sprayers create the same problems. Don't smoke, extinguish all pilots, remove all sources of ignition. (Or don't, and end up of the 10 o'clock news).

I have thought of doing this, just haven't made the time. Already have one of the "pressure blasters" that combine shop compressed air with the flow from the garden hose. Easy semi-flexible extensions have been made from plastic tubing obtained at Home Depot. Will put "high" end of vehicle on ramps to further hasten the water flow, parking on steepest part of driveway, then reverse the ends to get from the other direction. Thought about an alcohol flush to remove all of the remaining water, but decided the expense and flammability did not justify this use, figured parking in the garage with heat and a few fans for a day or two would remove any remaining moisture.

Then it's back out to the driveway for application, lots of wind, no ignition sources, drips help seal the rotten asphalt....

Here are some links to peruse, HTH, Cheropair.

http://www.geocities.com/wallaces_21/waxoyl.html

http://www.team.net/html_arc/british-cars/200111/msg00091.html

http://www.hammerite-automotive.com/waxoyl.htm
 
Cheropair said:
Might want to check on some Land Rover boards about a produst called WaxOyl. The stuff has a penetrant quality, that will seep into the seams, then the solvent evaporates leaving a parrafin coating.

I have seen some "home-brew" that used mineral spirits and candle wax to do this.

That's basically what the old "Ziebart" rust proofing undercoating was back about 30 years ago--paraffin based stuff with a solvent carrier.
 
Get on Amazon and look for a book called "Rust" by Steven B. Joseph. It's about $ 15.00 and packed with info on preventing and repairing rust damage. It's one of those books you'll keep going back to till you wear it out.
 
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