View Full Version : making a disco not so disco no more
FYR WOOD
October 20th, 2003, 19:48
So I got to thinking about this whole vaccuum disco garbage, and excuse me for not searching if this has been covered a million times...
Is it possible to remove all of the vaccuum disco trash (vaccuum lines, disco motor, and all), and replace the two shafts with a single passenger side shaft from say, a TJ? Works in my mind. All you would have to do is make a plate to cover the gaping hole in the top of the axle, but would save the trouble and money of swapping the entire axle.
Any feedback?
Scott
Eagle
October 20th, 2003, 19:58
T'ain't quite that simple, but you're on track.
The axles with the dosconnect don't have a seal at the pumpkin, the seal is at the outboard side of the shift motor. To replace with a one-piece axle shaft, you need to remove that seal and install a seal where the shaft exits the pumpkin. Based on what others have reported, the housing is not machined to accept the same seal that would be used in a non-disconnect axle of the same (or any other) year.
It has been reported that Warn has a seal that will work. I don't recall if anyone has posted that part number. But that's what you're looking at if you decide to proceed.
FYR WOOD
October 20th, 2003, 20:23
What about using a seal at the ends of the axle tubes, where the shafts exit the axle tube? Drivetrain Direct makes a seal that is inserted into the axle tube. Would this be a viable option? I have done away with inner seals in Dana 44 rears before and simply run outers. Never had any problems with those. Am I on track?
Scott
Safari Ary
October 20th, 2003, 20:29
Scott, although what you propose will probably work. The accepted method is to do what Eagle is suggesting. FYI, Eagle is our resident "stock mods" expert. He owns quite a few XJs and MJs(at least 5 or 6) and is a great source of info. HTH
Ary
P.S. Too bad you didn't pipe up about this a few weeks ago, I just sold my last set of spare 30 shafts with the 297 joints and the solid passenger's side.
FYR WOOD
October 20th, 2003, 20:37
Eagle and Ary,
Do you guys know of anyone who has done what I am proposing? Are the seals from Drivetrain Direct meant to be a complete seal or just a dust shield? I'd love to find out what that Warn part # is. My connections at Advance are fading too quickly... Thanks fellas.
Scott
Safari Ary
October 20th, 2003, 21:39
Scott, pretty sure those seals are just to replace the plastic discs that keep mud and dirt out. I'm pretty sure, for simplicity's sake, you just wanna do it the way the factory did it. Remember, the factory would pinch pennies whereever possible, so I doubt they would go for a more difficult/expensive option if they didn't have to. HTH
Ary
Eagle
October 21st, 2003, 00:15
I haven't tried those outer seals. Someone posted something about them not so long ago, and I believe the results weren't all that sterling. I suppose you could try them, but I don't think they were intended to keep lube in, I think they were intended to keep crud out.
Or call DTD and ask -- they have an 800 number, so all it'll cost you is your time.
I know someone here has posted the part number for the correct inner seal -- I just can't remember who or when. :(
xjluvr
October 21st, 2003, 01:29
Here's a write up that was done on them
Axle seals (http://www.jeepin.com/features/axleseals/index.asp)
xj-grin
October 21st, 2003, 06:29
fyr wood,
I have done exactly what you are proposing. The drivetrain direct axle tube seals are great. They are made of two rubber seals with a grease fitting, so you pump between the seals full of grease - they beth keep lube in, and keep crap out - I would recommend them. If you utilize a late model XJ or TJ solid shaft, you will get the 297/760 joint axles to boot. (Changing the seal at the disconnect appears to be a PITA, so I chose to kill 2 birds w/ ones stone...two years now w/ no problems.
FYR WOOD
October 21st, 2003, 08:29
xj-grin,
so you left the seal in the axle tube at the disconnect and just used the DTD seals? How much did they run you? I'm trying to decide whether this that I'm thinking or the Posi-lock is a more economical option. Thanks for your help fellas.
Scott
xj-grin
October 21st, 2003, 09:12
I got the seals fro $109 shipped, but at the time I had more money than time, and my vac-disconnect had all sorts of problems and needed to be replaced pronto. I got the shaft from a u-pull it for $5, so it was cheap and easy. I did just ignore the inner seal, left it in. The only thing with the outer axle seal tubes is that you need to make sure they are full of grease, or they won't work. I grease mine at every oil change and haven't had any issues. Also, check with Drivetrain Direct when you order, I think there are some D30 applications they won't work on (mine are on an 85 axle, but the shafts I'm using don't have the welded on dust caps (the seals wouldn't work with these).
woody
October 21st, 2003, 10:13
The way I converted my 89 Disco axle to 1 piece, was to pull the carrier & "machine" out the inner tube to accept a 'latemodel XJ' seal.
All it takes is a little 'quality time' with the Dremel or die-grinder, a seal, a bit of silicone sealer, and a 1 piece RHS inner ax shaft, you can block off the disco motor passage with a piece of plate, or do as I did and just pull the broken mode fork off the disco and slap it back on there. My fork was aluminum, and probably wouldn't harm the steel shaft if it touched, but...
Those DTD seals look pretty trick, but I'd advise to get the inner tubes as clean as possible before adding fresh gear oil.
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