swapping 8.8 for D35

[BLUTO]

Still looking for a 8.8 Explorer axle to install in place of my D35 on my 2000XJ. When I find it, I figure I'll probably need a new driveshaft, change location of spring perches, and hook-up new brake lines. I'm getting a SYE and Tom Woods DS too.

Q) do I cut off my old spring perches from my D35 and weld them onto the 8.8 (the 8.8 axles are coil sprung, correct?)? OR can I buy new perches at a spring shop?

Q) does anyone know if I'm going to need spacers to get the WMS dimensions back in line?

Q) are Explorer axles hi-pinion or low-pinion or does it matter? (will I need lotsa axle shims?)

Q) any other downfalls to using a 8.8 axle in my XJ?

BLUTO :)

[BUCKYXJ]

A)You can either cut and reweld your old ones or many companies make them M.O.R.E. I think and others.

A)The WMS to WMS is only off by an inch or less if I remember correctly and most people don't really care doesn't make a difference in driving.

A)I think they are all standard or low pinion.

A)you will have c-clips (which you already have). on the plus you get disc brakes if you get a new enough one.

[h.curtis]

Why would people bother with an 8.8. I mean all that work for an average rearend. I could see putting on a 9", but why bother with the 8.8? I would keep the 35 and get a 44 or a 9 if I was going to do all that work.

JMHO,
Curt

[TRL WGN 1]

Originally posted by h.curtis
Why would people bother with an 8.8. I mean all that work for an average rearend. I could see putting on a 9", but why bother with the 8.8? I would keep the 35 and get a 44 or a 9 if I was going to do all that work.

JMHO,
Curt

well, because the 8.8 is more than average. It is stronger than a D44, with the same size shafts (31 spline) as a 9". It has disc brakes, it is near the same width, it has the same wheel lug pattern, and there are tons of them available in salvage yards. Only thing that I don't love about mine is the ground clearance.

[Burley]

Originally posted by h.curtis
Why would people bother with an 8.8. I mean all that work for an average rearend. I could see putting on a 9", but why bother with the 8.8? I would keep the 35 and get a 44 or a 9 if I was going to do all that work.

JMHO,
Curt

I just read this weekend in one of the four wheeler mags that the 8.8 is 110" stronger than the D35. And like was previously noted, they are everywhere.

Burley

[calvin]

The 8.8 tubes are a bit larger than the D35 (3.25" vs 2.5"), so you couldn't re-use the D35 pads. I used the kit from MORE, which included the spring pads, shock mounts, and u-bolts.
As mentioned by BuckyXJ, the 8.8 width is only a hair narrower than the 35 (59.75" vs 61.25" IIRC), so it's not even noticeable.
I set up the pinion angle and welded the perches accordingly, so no shims were needed.
Just my .02

[Arakele]

with the argument of which is stronger here is something to look at



Ford 9 Ford 8.8 Dana 44


Ring Gear 9" 8.8" 8.5"
Dia.

Pinion Shaft 1.313 1.625 1.375
Dia.

Axle Shaft 1.19" / 28 1.32 / 31 1.31" / 30
Dia/Splines 1.50" / 31


But it is all a matter of personal opinion

[BLUTO]

Other than the C clips, the 8.8 looks damn near perfect!
My neighbor works at the Visteon (Ford) axle plant north of Detroit. He told me the Ford 9" rear axle has been out of production for a while (Dana bought the rights to it and now manufactures it). It has an extra set of bearings on the pinion? that allowed it to take hugh torque inputs :eek:
He said the 9.75" was no slouch either ;) .

Is there anything such as a "C" clip eliminator, to make the 8.8 more "secure"? :angel:
Thanks for the experienced input,
BLUTO :)

[BLUTO]

Another question came up.
I went to M.O.R.E.'s site and saw their hardware for the swap, they offer an "adapter yoke" to allow the Spicer 1310 U-joint to work in the 8.8" pinion flange.
My question is: If I'm buying a Tom Woods DS and telling them whether I have a Spicer or Saginaw-styled U-joint (3-7/32" VS 3-5/8").....couldn't Tom Woods use a stock Spicer yoke on the TC end of the DS and a Ford 8.8" type yoke on the pinion end? This would eliminate me having to spend the extra $40 for an adapter yoke.

BLUTO :)

[Arakele]

hmm my post came out funny before i didnt even notice that so i'll re-do it so it isnt confusing anyone

http://xj.no-ip.org/axle.htm

[BILLXJ]

.. I also cordially endorse the Ford 8.8 as a good strong replacement for that thin spindly D35- as we speak I am makeing some additional spring perches to increase my rear lift on my 97'Ford 8.8 rear axle again useing 2"inch X 6"inch-1/4"inch thick box wall tubeing or square tube(.....$10.00-$14.00 dollars for mild steel....) and some 1/4"inch mild steel plate for the leaf spring top plates.-I forget whom is credited for this wonderful write-up,if you are interested in saveing some of your hard-earned "moolah",do a search online for "Bullet-Proof Perches". Also if you decide to "refresh" your 95-02 Ford 8.8 rear axle here are some sources and part numbers/prices for some of the components which be purchased at a NAPA auto supply store .
Other Parts Needed
Brake pads (P/N 6674, AutoZone) =$39.99
Calipers (P/N's C576 &C577, AutoZone)
Guide pins (2 - H15068, AutoZone)
Banjo bolts (Ford P/N 385116-S2)
Hoses (2 - NAPA P/N 380376 & 380528 )=$51.79 E-brake cables (Mopar P/N's 52008904 & 05)
"T" Hose (P/N 380889, NAPA)
2 - Hard Brake Lines(NAPA P/N 813-1208 & 813-1204 )=$6.73
Yoke Adapter (Spicer P/N 2-2-1379, NAPA)
Yoke bolts (Ford P/N N800594-S100)

[sdcowboy34]

I am swapping for the 8.8 also, going up 6.5 with coilovers.. does anyone know what the pinion angle should be ? there is no conversion kit for this swap, I have the ability for the job, but lack knowledge on this kind of stuff. the lift is the rk 6.5 coilover conversion. any help would be appriciated.

[LBEXJ]

Other than the C clips, the 8.8 looks damn near perfect!
My neighbor works at the Visteon (Ford) axle plant north of Detroit. He told me the Ford 9" rear axle has been out of production for a while (Dana bought the rights to it and now manufactures it). It has an extra set of bearings on the pinion? that allowed it to take hugh torque inputs :eek:
He said the 9.75" was no slouch either ;) .

Is there anything such as a "C" clip eliminator, to make the 8.8 more "secure"? :angel:
Thanks for the experienced input,
BLUTO :)

Yes, there is a c-clip eliminator kit made for these. However, as I have been advised here, the likelyhood you'll break an axle shaft is remote, so it's not really necessary. If you get an axle with disc brakes, the rotor will help hold the axle shaft in the tube in an emergency.

The only other "issue" Ive read about is the differential housing can rotate on the axle tubes ... the spot welds sometimes will allow it to spin. Some (including me) have welded the tubes to the differential housing.

There is a alot of info here including links to tech articles. Use the search to read up ... it will help you out quite a bit.

Les

PS: I like my 8.8 and disc brakes ....

[GI-John]

Spring Perches (http://www.off-road.com/chevy/tech/perch/)

E-Brake (http://jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=426352)

NAXJA Search (http://www.naxja.org/forum/search.php?searchid=162481&pp=15&page=1)

Google Search (http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&q=ford+8%2E8)

The search button is your friend

Edit: I like my 8.8 too

[sdcowboy34]

thanks for the info..

[Big Red]

well, because the 8.8 is more than average. It is stronger than a D44, with the same size shafts (31 spline) as a 9". It has disc brakes, it is near the same width, it has the same wheel lug pattern, and there are tons of them available in salvage yards. Only thing that I don't love about mine is the ground clearance.

Right on. The ford 8.8 is a great axle and is very easy to find either initially or to find replacement parts. The disc brakes alone almost make the swap worth it.
Troy

[TNScrambler]

.. I also cordially endorse the Ford 8.8 as a good strong replacement for that thin spindly D35- as we speak I am makeing some additional spring perches to increase my rear lift on my 97'Ford 8.8 rear axle again useing 2"inch X 6"inch-1/4"inch thick box wall tubeing or square tube(.....$10.00-$14.00 dollars for mild steel....) and some 1/4"inch mild steel plate for the leaf spring top plates.-I forget whom is credited for this wonderful write-up,if you are interested in saveing some of your hard-earned "moolah",do a search online for "Bullet-Proof Perches".


You might want to reconsider the 1/4 in leaf spring top plates....a buddy of mine made his own out of 1/4....broke two center pins cause the springs weren't clamped down tight enough....we cranked on them more to tighten them down and the plates where actually deflecting down on the sides of the springs....he made his new plates out of 1/2 in and has since stopped braking center pins....mine are made out of 7/8in plate, its overkill, but I had it lying around when I made the plates for my 14bolt.

Justin