Rear Driveshaft. WIll it work??

Hey guys I snagged a Bronco 2 rear driveshaft. It's double cardon and extendable. i was wondering if I could hook this up to my yoke that comes out of my transfer case. Would this eliminate vibrations at higher lift heights? I just don't know if it would cause vibs or eliminate them. Would there be anything else that I would have to do or worry about?
BTW it's a 87 automatic, d44
Thanks

Well,It definately wont fit right now.Depending on what you have will determine whether it can be made to fit.What type of yoke/flange,what size joints,new rear yoke/adapter,what length?

I'm not sure what the size of the u-joint is but I'll measure it. I was thinking of connecting the yoke to the driveshaft with a u-joint. I was also thinking about taking my yoke and drilling a hole in the center and connecting it to my rear shaft so it will act like a SYE, then attach the driveshaft. Does anyone know if this will work?

lostcreek21 said:

I'm not sure what the size of the u-joint is but I'll measure it. I was thinking of connecting the yoke to the driveshaft with a u-joint. I was also thinking about taking my yoke and drilling a hole in the center and connecting it to my rear shaft so it will act like a SYE, then attach the driveshaft. Does anyone know if this will work?

Click to expand...

BTT

Does anyone know if this is a good alternative to a SYE and custom Dshaft? I've talked about the bolting the slip yoke to the TC output shaft so that's doable. But is the Bronco II Dshaft a reality?

BTT, I want to know also since Ive seen 3 or 4 BroncII's at the yard.

it won't work the way you guys are describing it.

1) in order to run the cv shaft with the slip in it you need a fixed output (SYE) so you can't just use the stock yoke as is.

2) someone proposed bolting the yoke to the transfercase output to make it fixed. this would be a SYE, but you still couldn't run that cv shaft because the factory yoke doesn't have any of the centering ball stuff.

if you take the u-joint out of the cv shaft you'll see what i'm talking about.

the yoke on the transfercase end needs to look something like this in order to work with the CV joint. notice the centering ball.



the part above is used to bolt a cv driveshaft to a flat flange (like the hack and tap)

if you have a HD sye the yoke looks like this:



notice the yoke isn't a full circle like the factory yokes. this type of yoke takes a shaft like this:



and sandwiches the u joint between the two halfs.

i hope some of this makes sense and helps out.

matthew

i checked a little more. bronco II's use a flat flange (similar to the RE hack and tap) on the rear. this is a rear bronco II shaft:



this shaft will work with the RE hack and tap if 1) the flat flange uses the same bolt pattern, 2) the shaft is the correct length, 3) and the rear u-joint is the right size.

it will work with a HD sye if 1) the shaft is the correct length, 2) the rear u-joint is the correct size, 3) and you replace the part that looks like this (the top part in the above picture):



with a part that looks like this:



but either way its not going to work with a stock yoke.

the bottom line is that any cv shaft will work as long as you have some fixed transfercase output that accepts a cv shaft. you can then cut the shaft to size and run conversion u-joints or swap yokes to match u-joint sizes. its still probably going to be cheaper than running a custom $300 cv shaft.

matthew

I see now that I'd need a flanged end on the output shaft. Now I'm just wondering if the DS in question as the right length with a SYE. By the way since I'm talkin' cheap I'm not talkin' about a HD SYE, just the hack-n-tap. I know that with enough enginuity anything is possible.

I type slow so I didn't know you answered my 2nd post before I even posted it.