No Backup lights

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I lust noticed that my 91 XJ (AT) has no back up lights. Replaced bulbs, still no lights.
Lokked in Haynes book, they didn't show a location for the fuse. My Chilton book showed a 7.5 amp fuse at a location (#13 in thier book) in the fuse bock under the dash. But when I checked mine out, I have no fuse in that location...actually there are even no coonectors for a fuse in the location they showed.

Does anyone for sure know where the backup fuse is?
If it's not the fuse or the bulbs where do you look next?

Thanks

do a search for neutral safety switch, 200 bucks from Autozone, but an easy clean if you can find the link

Don't know if '91 is the same, but the 7.5 amp fuse marked "trans" in the fuse block was blown on my '87 causing no b/u lamps. IMO the best way to check fuses is to take a test light, clip it to a ground, and probe each fuse ( don't remove them, just touch the exposed metal on each side of where the amp rating is stamped . If only one side lights, fuse is bad).

If fuses check out, test the neutral start switch, in the Haynes manual the instructions are on page 7B-5. Don't know why it says put the vehicle on jack stands, the connecter is under the hood, if I remember correctly, around the tranny dipstick area. The haynes manual shows the 'A' and 'E' terminals (the plastic connecters have the letters on them) for the b/u lamps. Unplug the connecter, and on the engine harness side, check to see if the 'A' terminal has power with the key on, to verify power to the switch. If you have power, connect an ohm meter to the 'A' and 'E' terminals on the switch connecter, and shift into reverse, the meter should show continuity. If not you need to replace the NSS ($$$.$$) or clean the contacts in it. If the switch checks out , you may have a open in the wiring from the switch to the b/u lamps.

I was going to throw a new switch on mine until I found out how much they cost and how much of a pain they are to change, so I decided to do some testing, and i'm glad I did!! It ended up being that blown "trans" fuse due to one of the wires to the power/comfort switch being grounded out on the steering column bracket.

The one thing they forget in the NSS cleaning instructions is simple and (I think!) critical:
When you take apart the case halves, do it inside a bag. Use a 1 gallon ziplock if you can (so you can see what you're doing,) but a paper bag and slow movements will do the job! There are a couple spring-loaded contacts in there that have just enough spring to launch a bit if you don't watch out, and the bag is a good safety against losing the damn things...

Other than that, the job itself is simple. Some contact cleaner and Ox-Gard are all you really need, but I also do a VERY thin bead of RTV Black to seal the switch body. Where are you?

5-90

(edit) - Wups - Phoenix. You can ship it to me if you want, and I'll turn it around that day. Pay what you think the job is worth if you don't want to do it yourself, PM for addy. (NOTE - OEMR replacement is something like $300 last time I checked - the most that might need to be replaced is the little copper contacts on the wiper arm inside the switch body, and I have dimensions from the last set I had to make...)

5-90

mine only work after ive been driving for a while, not when i start it up and back up...any ideas?

small pederson said:

mine only work after ive been driving for a while, not when i start it up and back up...any ideas?

Click to expand...

Sounds like you may need to clean your switch. The grease inside may be starting to harden, and after you drive a while and heat the switch (and the grease) up, the grease softens up and lets the contacts move. Only way to tell for sure is to test the switch with a meter when the b/u lamps are not working.