Squeeky Alternator

My alternator bearing is squeeking again (I quietened it down with a shot of WD-40 a few months ago). What about taking it apart and greasing the front bearing? Anyone had any luck with this?

The alternator charges fine, so I'd rather not replace it just yet.
Thanks
Don

Look in your phone book for alternator rebuilders. They may be able to rework it for a price that may suprise you.

The seals they use on those bearings are not designed to be "lubed" after they leave the factory. I think if you buy them at the right place the bearing is less than $5 bucks. I saw a bearing renewal kit for older alternators on-line for $7.95.

Also I recall the stock Delco CS-130 uses a 8 mm wide bearing in the rear, the rebuilders generally use the 10 mm wide bearing.

If it was me I'd take it the rebuilder and have them install new bearings. He might find your voltage regulator is near the end of it's life. When you are done you will prob spent less $ than getting a rebuilt at the local big box parts store. Also spraying WD-40 on the bearing is displacing teh water but not providing any lube. You do need a new bearing before it decides to lock up on you.

When you go to reinstall buy a 20-24 inch piece of #4 or larger wire and connect it to the case. Anything longer will not give you any benefit. There is a 8 mm hole on the back just for attaching a "bonding" wire. Then attach the other end of the cable to the chassis. I used one of the studs which hold down the ignition coil module. This will help, I saw the voltage go up on my dash board gauge when I did this.

Here is an online manual for the CS-130 which you should have on your XJ, look this over: http://www.alternatorparts.com/cs130_sbpage1.htm

Thanks Martin Nice info. Could be your alternator, but in my experiance they rarley squeak, they rattle from the bearings or rasp from the brushes.
Just as an experiment try spraying the WD 40 on your belt and see if the squeak doesn´t stop. Often all those idlers and pulleys arn´t perfectly in line with each other, belts get old and hard, cold weather rmakes them harder, they squeak.
Spray teflon or graphit will help them slip a bit (sideways), just check the label for not to be used on rubber, statements, some solvents attack rubber. A new belt doesn´t always remove the squeak.

Martin, thanks for the link and tips. I compared mine to the pictures and it's indeed one of the Delco CS series. That's a good resource for rebuilding one. I'll keep in mind the trick with the ground wire to the frame.

8Mud, you've made me think twice about the noise being from the alternator. I think I'll loosen the belt and spin all the pulleys to confirm.

Thanks for the replies.

martin said:

...When you go to reinstall buy a 20-24 inch piece of #4 or larger wire and connect it to the case. Anything longer will not give you any benefit. There is a 8 mm hole on the back just for attaching a "bonding" wire. Then attach the other end of the cable to the chassis. I used one of the studs which hold down the ignition coil module. This will help, I saw the voltage go up on my dash board gauge when I did this.[/url]

Click to expand...

Where exactly on the case do you connect it too? Just wondering cause i replaced my alternator a few months ago. I'll have to go put one of those on.

8Mud said:

Just as an experiment try spraying the WD 40 on your belt and see if the squeak doesn´t stop. Often all those idlers and pulleys arn´t perfectly in line with each other, belts get old and hard, cold weather rmakes them harder, they squeak.

Click to expand...

Another hint I heard long ago is to try the above test with brake fluid, which will quickly wear off with no adverse effect on the belt.

Spider,

Take a look at this web page. The second photo shows the back of the CS-130 alternator: http://www.alternatorparts.com/cs-130-pic.htm

At the 10 o'clock position you will see the stud to attach the POS wire to the alternator. Now look at case at the 5:30 position. You will see a hole. I am not talking the mounting ear hole at 6 o'clock. This hole and the stud for the POS are on the back of the case. This is the hole I used for attaching the bonding wire to the case of the alternator. I figured once the engine was running the alternator did the work so why "make" the current run through the engine block since everything is bonded to the chassis.

I recall the hole being a 8 mm but do not recall the thread pitch. it either 1.25 or 1.50. It the common thread pitch for a 8 mm bolt. I took an alternator to the store so I got the right bolt.

Also Craig H has a very good write up on how to improve the charging system of an XJ. He does not include the bonding wire I talked about. I wrote him and he told me he meant to put it in the article but was an oversight. Going to the large gauge wire will help out. http://www.olypen.com/craigh/charge.htm