im thinking of buying....

I found a local xj for $2000 and I want to make sure it is worth it before I say yes. Heres the low down
1992, 4 door, 4x4, 4L.
No power options (no power windows, locks, rear wiper, fogs, comfort/power tranny switch)
Has idiot gauges (but I think I have a replacement)
New brakes, fairly good tread tires
Rear mail seal = good
pcv = good
no visible leaks
Interior is in decent condition
One fist size rust spot in rear panel below window, and a few minute( very very small) spots along the doors. Rust on rear bumper.

That is all I can think of right now, I only got the chance to look at it for about 5 minutes ( i was at work and he drove it to me)


I am going to his house tomorrow and need to know first if it is worth a second look......then I need to know everything to look for.....everything!
All comments welcome and encouraged.
I will have about an hour to go over the whole thing, so please let me make the right choice if its a good buy.

FYI, I payed $2500 for my current one, which has all options except power seats

Thanks guys, The more responses the better!

I would say so. If it runs good. Might want to take a look at the trans fluid and take it for a spin first. If it's mechanicly sound and decent condition other than some cosmetics, I would buy it for $2000 ( if I hadn't already just bought one for $2000)

Test drive is a must of course....I know to check the 4x4, and all other gears. Is there anything I should look for to tell if the 4x4 is failing? It was female driven (for how long? I dont know yet...it was his daughter).....

Check for rust INSIDE at the 'usual' XJ locations:
* Front passenger floor (peel back the carpet).
* Below rear fixed windows.

Check all windows, door latches (in and out), front door locks (in and out).

Handbrake button frequently pops out, and the ONLY fixes:
Make your own replacement button and try to reassemble; or,
Bend over and get a complete new assembly from the dealership, about $50 (this is so common they keep the damned things under the front counter! :banghead: )

Be VERY careful in buying any vehicle with rust - particularly one with a unibody. Do you have the equipment/skills/time to search high and low and cut out and replace every piece of rusted metal? If not, then you might want to keep looking - as good a deal as it sounds, keep looking. If you CAN do that - then it may still be a good deal. But you do not want to leave rust alone - and if there is a little rust, there is more elsewhere. I spent an entire summer cutting out the floor of my 66 mustang and welding new pans in. Cost me a lot of money, more blood and even more sweat. Fortunately for me, I still lived at home at the time and was able to use my dad's equipment. (I have none!).

I'm not saying don't buy the truck, I'm just saying be prepared to go the distance to get rid of the rust or don't bother.

well, like i said, only spots I noticed "at the time" were on the bumper and on the sheet metal (was sanded and covered), but I will definitely give it the full look around later today....

any other things to look for.....I go back for the second look 8 hours

If its a five speed.........

look closely at the master cylander area and under the carpet for the drivers front. Did some one mention above the cat?

1. Spend half the time on a FULL road test: Highway speeds and full test of 4wd in lo and high (you're looking and listening for noise and ease of shift, not for flex or traction; just find some dirt and run thru the TC).
2. Verify that there are no major dents in the underside, nor rock impacts on the tierod, lca mount, diffs.
3. Verify that no aftermarket lift or other major swaps; even if the items are from a reputable manufacturer, you don't know the quality of the installation workmanship.
4. Wheels and spare: Stock steel, rock, factory alum, or fancy? Fullsize or donut.

Relative to rust:
You do realize that unless there's a severe scratch in the paint, the rust ORIGINATED on the inside of the steel and corroded itself OUTWARD to the paint?
A 'minor' surface blemish often is just the tip of a huge buried 'rustburg' (I just trademarked that term ).

BTW, in Phoenix $2400 will get you a fully-loaded A/C'd rust-free '90; so though the price is fair, it's not the bargain of the year.
Maybe use the rust (and donut spare if applicable) to bargain-down to $1600 or so.

Good luck.
-Rick

thanks rix! its got a doughnut
and with the rsu tim gonna haggle him....
i have a loaded 90, buts it out of commision, so im getting a temp for now, until i can fix the 90. Then I plan on going back to the 90 for my DD and making the 92 (if i get it) nuthing but an offroader (may even chop it)....thanks for the input guys!

well if you plan on makin it a trail rig only then i say don't worry so much about the rust. focus on the mechanical end of things.

no go on the buy. Test drove it, stuttered alot, 4x4 didnt even work and even though they were crank, rear windows didnt go down....Thanks for the input anyways.

If there is any rust...I say nope.