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upandovr
October 5th, 2003, 15:10
Help me design an xj that will wheel with the best of them and yet still let me drive 700 plus miles at 75/80 every other month in comfort and get resonable gas milage.

My thoughts were RE 5.5, slip yoke kit, 285/75/16 (33") mtr's I pulled off the excursion, 4.56's, lockrights. I bought a 96 sport with an aw4.

M. Lake
October 5th, 2003, 15:16
A DVD player and a massage seat back, and your set. :rolleyes:

h.curtis
October 5th, 2003, 15:40
Well, I am building one that I think will do well on all acounts, I hope. I am going with the 5.5 RE lift with at some point 32's or 33's. I have a Borla exhaust (header and catback) and a high flow cat. They increased my miliage by about 3 mpg highway and even better in city. My current set up is great for the street (Trailmaster 4" lift w/ 31's), but off road is another story. It is good, but can't touch the flex of the RE that I ordered.

I am going with a hack and tap, not a SYE. I was told that is all I need for my '96. 4.56's may be a bit much if you want to run that fast. I am not sure though.

Curt

TOZOVR
October 5th, 2003, 16:39
http://www.authorizedvehicle4x4.com/push/5.JPG

Once the Clayton Long Arms go on in a few eeks things will be a lil nicer on the street....

But I wheel the bejesus out of this pig all the time...long weekends and weeklong trips far from everything...Not an extreme Rockcrawler, but it does lots really well.

http://www.authorizedvehicle4x4.com/HI5.jpg

PS, the Cut and Tap is 100% an SYE...SYE stands for Slip Yoke Eliminator...and that is excatly what it does. In fact most of the Non- Heavy-Duty kits out there actually use the same parts for the SYE's they sell, they just include an already cut stock shaft...the Cut and Tap just has you caut and tap the shaft.

jjvande
October 5th, 2003, 16:50
they just include an already cut stock shaft...the Cut and Tap just has you caut and tap the shaft.

They're usually a much larger diamter shaft with more splines and more resistance to failure than a cut and tapped stock shaft.

regards

jjvande
October 5th, 2003, 16:52
sorry, i just noticed you wrote non heavy duty....nm

REDXJ4FUN
October 5th, 2003, 18:47
IThe main thing I'd change is the hack and tap. spend the exrtra and make ssure you'll get home. I've seen many of the stock 231 out put shafts brake and its not worth the time and bs and still have a weak link that that hard to replace and costly. get a HD kit and if you need a fuse in your system run 1310 joints and hope fully they break before any thing else dose.

TOZOVR
October 5th, 2003, 19:00
You are the one!:D


I have never heard of anyone breaking the Stock XJ tailshaft running a cut and tap...ESPECIALLY running just 32 or 33's.

The kit is quality. It's the install that can go bad.

In fact there are a few threads on here that actually ask who has seen a cut and Tap fail, no one fessed up and said they had. Always someones brothers roomate's cousin....

I have seen and heard of Installs going bad...I have also see two installs that went bad and they guys forced the Flange on causing the splines to clearance (things were fine for a while and then the flange and shaft wore out...)

We usually just heat the flanges in the oven for 20 minutes and they slide right on.

The Fact that I have been abusing mine with 32" TSL's amd FARMERMATT has been abusing his with 35's gives me confidence in the product.

Is the HD shaft a better unit? Hell yeah, while you're in there do the HD chain too....but if you are competent with tools you can do the Cut and Tap with no ill effects.

jimbar
October 5th, 2003, 19:13
You wanna see it? Click the sig baby...

Originally posted by upandovr
Help me design an xj that will wheel with the best of them and yet still let me drive 700 plus miles at 75/80 every other month in comfort and get resonable gas milage.

My thoughts were RE 5.5, slip yoke kit, 285/75/16 (33") mtr's I pulled off the excursion, 4.56's, lockrights. I bought a 96 sport with an aw4.

Rob94XJ
October 5th, 2003, 19:53
My daily, I'm runnin 35's, custom long arms, rear locker, 8-9 inches lift and she loves it....although quick discos are a must.

http://home.thezone.net/~nf4wc/rob1.jpg

On another note this was rolled on the road by my old man 4 days before christmas when she had 33's and 6" lift.....heance the cage an 5 points.....lol

Rob

CheapXJ
October 5th, 2003, 19:59
Originally posted by REDXJ4FUN
IThe main thing I'd change is the hack and tap. spend the exrtra and make ssure you'll get home. I've seen many of the stock 231 out put shafts brake and its not worth the time and bs and still have a weak link that that hard to replace and costly. get a HD kit and if you need a fuse in your system run 1310 joints and hope fully they break before any thing else dose.

if you need "HD" you don't need a 231.

HD SYE is just polishing a turd

Epyon_zuk
October 5th, 2003, 22:08
Unless you really need 33's you could always go with a milder lift and use 31's. you probably won't need a SYE then. My Cherokee is my DD but it sees some wheeling here and there. I'm going to 2" BB it and run my 30x9.50 buckshots. quick disco the front sway bar, ditch the rear sway bar, and maybe get a rear locker. That set up will be more than enouph to get me to remote camping locations and just the daily wandering around in the woods.

Building a DD and trail rig is all about comprimise. A good idea would be to figure out what your going to be wheeling most of the time and build to that terrian. If you over build you may find yourself getting bored.

Have fun
Brian D.

brcomputer
October 5th, 2003, 23:09
Mines a DD as well.... but rarely sees any long hwy time. When I do drive on the hwy I cruise at about 70 and it's pushing it around 2600-2700 RPMs...

If I were going to do it for more of a hwy friendly ride, I'd go with 32s a 4.5" lift and 4.10s..... or less

You can see most of the stuff I've done on my site ... needs updating since I bashed it up last weekend and threw in some new stuff:D

http://www.2bbdelta.org/trailreports/sep27-28_2003/camera2/DSCF0117rc.JPG

h.curtis
October 6th, 2003, 10:39
Originally posted by TOZOVR
PS, the Cut and Tap is 100% an SYE...SYE stands for Slip Yoke Eliminator...and that is excatly what it does. In fact most of the Non- Heavy-Duty kits out there actually use the same parts for the SYE's they sell, they just include an already cut stock shaft...the Cut and Tap just has you caut and tap the shaft. [/B]

Thanks for that info. I was told that the cut and tap is fine and plenty for my Jeep. I will be running 33's most likely and if I was going to run real hard I would have to change the whole drive train really. Only have dana 35c's in the rear and a 5sp. I do most of my 4 wheeling in the snow. It would be a waste of money to do a heavy duty with a stock drive train IMHO.

I like that ARB front bumper. It is a lot heavier than stock, right? Do you have to add to the front springs when you add that front with the winch?
Curt

brcomputer
October 6th, 2003, 10:55
Not sure about the ARB, but I can tell you I added about 1.75" up front to my RE5.5" kit for my BPI bumper & Warn Hs9500 ....

BUCKYXJ
October 6th, 2003, 11:21
No one that I see has asked what rear axle he is running if its the D35 don't expect to wheel with the best of them untill you replace that . As for the hack and tap I have seen one fail the tail shaft on the 231 bent real good and could not run with the rear d/s in due to the amount of vibes. HTH
DIG IT

upandovr
October 6th, 2003, 11:54
Rear axle is a 8.25 and I never said anything about a hack and tap. This thread has turned into a mess how about everyones lift and tire thoughts.

TOZOVR
October 6th, 2003, 11:59
Originally posted by upandovr
Rear axle is a 8.25 and I never said anything about a hack and tap. This thread has turned into a mess how about everyones lift and tire thoughts.

Originally posted by upandovr
Help me design an xj that will wheel with the best of them and yet still let me drive 700 plus miles at 75/80 every other month in comfort and get resonable gas milage.

Ryan4x4XJ
October 6th, 2003, 12:29
The ultimate XJ daily driver would be stock. :D

Well maybe add in some leather seats, new shocks, new tires, and an in dash dvd player.

Markm80521
October 6th, 2003, 13:21
upandover,

When I set to building my jeep cherokee out I wanted to find that fine line as well. I think I am leaning a little to off-road but I do think I found it.

Keep in mind building a capable on-off road vehicle will be MORE expense (more time than not) than one or the other. You want to:

1)Think Selectablility - electric/ air lockers, Adjustable shocks, etc.

2) Concentrate on your drivetrain. Again you are trying to be able to have highway capabilities AND off road. Don't skimp. Drivelines, SYE, etc.

3) Tires and lift as much as needed. I run 4.5 lift and 32's. I put a few armor plates on the bottom to compensate for the smaller tires and less clearance.

4) 4.10 gears and nothing more. You will not enjoy 700 plus miles on anything else. At this point you will be stuck with 32's so make sure this is as high as you want you XJ to be.

--After saying all of this I still can't get my steering dialed in for some reason so maybe I am not the best person to speak to.;)

upandovr
October 7th, 2003, 05:29
btt

KarmirXJ
October 7th, 2003, 06:26
I as well am building a DD / rockcrawler, to tackle most of the CA large bouldered trails (hammers:D)

heres My Idea (and project in progress) of a the "ULTIMATE" Wheeler/DD

basic 2dr or 4dr XJ body

- 8" lift, front long arms
- rear leaves moved under "frame rails" for flatter springs (nicer ride more flex)
- Aw4 tranny with biggest cooler you can find, and 2nd gear /loc up mod
- clocked/ flipped D300 with 4:1 lomax or tera
- Klune V (4:1)
- RCD44HD (probably from F250) cut down for total 64wms-wms
- Hysteer, supeior inners warn alloy outers, CTMS, ARB
- D60HD full floater 64 wms-wms 35 spline. ARB or Detriot, anti wrap bar.
- skid plates / rock rails and stuff like that.
- 8 point cage DOM tubing (not hrew:D)
- some sort of exo cage tied into interior cage
- sleeved or boxed frame rails + tied into the interior cage
- bedlined interior 5 point harness, appropriate & ACCURATE gauges. nice GPS good sound sIstem
- Beadlock 15x8 black rims with 37 MTRs or TSLs
- choise of bumpers winches lights and other misc thingys:D

lesslimited
October 7th, 2003, 07:03
I don't really use my XJ as a daily driver, but I did put about 4k miles on it in 2 weeks last month on a trip to Steamboat Springs and Moab, so we practically lived in it for that time. It rode and steered fine at 70-75mph @ about 2800rpm in OD. Rpms were a little high maintaining that speed downshifted for some hills, so I wonder if 4.88s would be better or worse. When I had the 4.10s with the 33s, any slight hill or headwind would force a downshift, but the rpms weren't as high. The lockers didn't cause any problems on rain-slick streets(most of the week in Steamboat:( ), but we did have lots of stuff in the back. Back home with it unloaded, the Detroit made the rear a bit hard to control, so I would probably go for a selectable locker for a DD. As far as gas mileage, I got about 13-15mpg depending on speed and terrain. The XJs aren't very aerodynamic to begin with, and a lift exposes more of the undercarriage for more drag, plus the drag increases very rapidly with higher speeds. I'm sure my Con-ferr rack didn't help either. I'm extremely pleased with how it does off-road, which is the most important thing for me. See my Moab '03 pics on the pictures forum.
HTH

mbryson
October 7th, 2003, 07:48
As most of you probably know, I've used my XJ for a daily for the past 4 years. I've had it stock, budget boost with 31" tires, 4.5" RE with 32" MT/R's and 33" Swamps and 4.10 gears {still running the tracklock in the D35 and an ARB in the front}, 6" with 33" Swamps and some trimming (yes, still the D35....), and finally the 35" MT/R's, XJ D44 with ARB (4.10s and 4.88's), a little more trimming, suspension changes, etc.

My personal opinion is that I really haven't gained a lot by going from the 32" tires. I just do things easier now with the 35" tires (like break 297 joints). The daily driver aspect is still there, but it was much more comfortable with the 4.10 gears, 4.5" lift and 32" tires than it was with the SSR's or with the current MT/R's (esp. the 4.88's). I still drive it on long trips, it's just not as comfortable and gets HOT (EVERYTHING--engine, tranny, transfer case, etc.) if I go over 75 mph.

If I had to start over on another XJ (using NOTHING from my current XJ), I'd buy the RE 5.5" kit, ensure that I had the bigger shafts in my D30, D30 ARB, 4.56 gears, 33" tires (whatever mud terrain you can get a deal on), swap in a Ford 8.8 (Detroit or ARB, probably leaning towards the Detroit) with discs and drive and wheel the thing wherever I wanted. {appropriate armor required of course}...........


Just my humble opinion.......

upandovr
October 7th, 2003, 08:42
Awsome guys these last 2 posts are exactualy what I was looking for thank you!

KarmirXJ
October 7th, 2003, 10:56
thats your idea of an "ULTIMATE" DD/ Wheeler???:D

mbryson
October 7th, 2003, 11:13
Originally posted by KarmirXJ
thats your idea of an "ULTIMATE" DD/ Wheeler???:D

For an XJ platform, yes {many hinderances, but the biggest is the unibody construction}.......I think it will last a long time and do what he's asking it to do in a very reasonable fashion.


If you want to vary off of the thread topic and build an "Ultimate" DD/Wheeler, we could certainly do that. I'd chuck the XJ as a platform, though.

Root Moose
October 7th, 2003, 13:34
What I'm building:

1.) Armour!
2.) D44s front and rear
3.) ARBs front and rear
4.) NV242 with SYE
5.) 3.5RE lift
6.) 31" tires (ATs or snows for winter, tame MTs like used Rubi MT/Rs for summer, may get a set of swampers eventually for local wheeling)
7.) 4:10 gears

This is a daily driver, I need ~20 mpg (currently getting ~24mpg(Imp) with babying the throttle and tuning).

I don't need a larger tire for touring with the family so 31" works well enough for me. If I can't get where I want with the configuration above I need to give my head a shake and ask where the hell am I going anyway. LOL

Just my spin.

HTH

r@m

KarmirXJ
October 7th, 2003, 13:43
Originally posted by mbryson
If you want to vary off of the thread topic and build an "Ultimate" DD/Wheeler, we could certainly do that. I'd chuck the XJ as a platform, though.

makes sense, I understand that...

what else will you build that could tackle difficault trails. lets see.

- you got your TJ:rolleyes:
- then the YJ, (thats no so bad)
- and the CJ, jeez <--- beat to death, brought back to life, then beat to death again. you want to have a CJ, just like the next guy right?
what else...
-a Yota 4 runner or cruiser but dont forget the chrome, and tubes, lotsa big chrome tubes.

oh and almost forgot the match box sammy!:D



Im behing a bit sarcastic here. What Im trying to say is that compared to other groups we are very small group, I go down to johnson valley here and there. most of the rigs there are all poser TJs and CJs and an occasional Yota all lined up "shootin da sh|t" with each other, then along comes a single XJ. Then everybody runs towards it like an angry mob, start bombarding the owner with questions other half the guys are underneath the rig toughing all sorts of sh|t. Get the picture?

XJ is a small % of all the trail rigs out there, that makes it stand out.
AND THAT MAKES US SPECIAL!:D

we are like the underdogs that kick ass (know what I mean), with are modified grocery getters we tackle crazy stuff. we look funny with are waggon like rigs, and unibodys, but at the end of the trail, we are the only ones laughing!;)

So BE proud of your XJ dont just "chuck it"....


this is the biggest reason why I stuck to my XJ instead of going hard core with another rig.;)

MountaineerMac
October 7th, 2003, 15:09
Here's mine, and it's worked great so far for my DD, and trail rig -

1998 XJ with 35" MT/R's, custom long arms (Carolina Rock Shop), 8.8 rear/HP D30 with 4.10's and LockRights, ARB bumper/XD9000, Bilstein 5100's, & essentially a RE 5.5" kit with AAL and 3/4" spacer to clear the meats, with appropriate fender trimming. Of course, rock rails and appropriate skids are a must.
A Dana 300 is sitting in my garage that awaits to be installed. Working on the 4:1's and the flip kit right now.
The longer you have it, the more mods you'll end up doing. The key is to find whats right for you. How comfortable do you need to be? How much time are you willing to put in to keep it comfortable?
My buddy Woodkrawler's XJ on 38's rides better than some folks XJ's on 32's, because it's properly executed and he works hard to keep it a well oiled machine. :)

Pics Here (www.geocities.com/uglyxj/XJPics.html)

mbryson
October 7th, 2003, 18:47
Originally posted by KarmirXJ
makes sense, I understand that...

what else will you build that could tackle difficault trails. lets see.

- you got your TJ:rolleyes:
- then the YJ, (thats no so bad)
- and the CJ, jeez <--- beat to death, brought back to life, then beat to death again. you want to have a CJ, just like the next guy right?
what else...
-a Yota 4 runner or cruiser but dont forget the chrome, and tubes, lotsa big chrome tubes.

oh and almost forgot the match box sammy!:D



Im behing a bit sarcastic here. What Im trying to say is that compared to other groups we are very small group, I go down to johnson valley here and there. most of the rigs there are all poser TJs and CJs and an occasional Yota all lined up "shootin da sh|t" with each other, then along comes a single XJ. Then everybody runs towards it like an angry mob, start bombarding the owner with questions other half the guys are underneath the rig toughing all sorts of sh|t. Get the picture?

XJ is a small % of all the trail rigs out there, that makes it stand out.
AND THAT MAKES US SPECIAL!:D

we are like the underdogs that kick ass (know what I mean), with are modified grocery getters we tackle crazy stuff. we look funny with are waggon like rigs, and unibodys, but at the end of the trail, we are the only ones laughing!;)

So BE proud of your XJ dont just "chuck it"....


this is the biggest reason why I stuck to my XJ instead of going hard core with another rig.;)


I really do enjoy my XJ. It gets me a lot of places. However, the Jeeping I do is seriously taking a toll on it (don't tell me yours isn't) structurally. If you build it for 33" tires, I think it will last a long time and will do almost anything you throw at it. I've really enjoyed being the one 'grocery getter' that gets through some major trails. I think I've garnered the XJ chassis some respect around here, but I'm willing to accept the limitations.

I live next door to someone who has welded his unibody together many times. (he does put more stress on it than me......big axles and he's run longer with bigger tires) I think we are both of the similar opinion about the unibody.

You're right that it's hard to be original while building one of the other platforms. I just want something that I don't have to worry about the chassis falling apart after tough trails. Mine has served me well and I will hate to see it go one day. It will go away, though and I'll move on to something else (unless a perfectly good XJ pops up.....too easy)

TOZOVR
October 7th, 2003, 19:18
I hear ya bro, but that is excactly why mine is getting a cage...I don't creek or squeek or rattle yet...it's a '99, so we're giving it some backbone.

mbryson
October 7th, 2003, 19:23
Originally posted by TOZOVR
I hear ya bro, but that is excactly why mine is getting a cage...I don't creek or squeek or rattle yet...it's a '99, so we're giving it some backbone.

Seriously, best of luck and be careful and thoughtful while building the cage.

TOZOVR
October 7th, 2003, 19:37
Absolutely