aussie locker in front d 30

aussie locker in frond d30
I want to install a traction improvement device, but I still have both stoch axles in my xj I am wondering if , as has been suggested to me, I shound for now focus on upgrading the d 30 so I dont waste any mony on the rear that may be replaced some day. how strong can a diconnect d30 be MADE with upgrade, and what is nessacery( axles, gears, u joints, gussets)? I dont plan on going above 33s in the next couple of years.

You can install a manual lock for the disconnect, upgrade the u-joints to 297x, install a full case locker. Like a Detroit or ARB. They will hold up with 33" tires. Guys on this board and others run 35" tires on the D30. The big this is the u-joint and how you drive. You could truss the axle housing to keep it from flexing. A diff guard is also a good idea. Juice

Just keep a light foot on the go pedal and it'll live with 33's fine.

If you really want to throw some money at it there are a few other things you can do in conjuction with what Juice mentioned.

Alloy inner axle shafts Superior or Warn and a plate to cover where your dissconnect was.

CTM or OX or spicer 5-760x U-joints with full cir-clips

Hub conversion 5 on 4.5" Milemarker or Warn The small hubs should make an easily and quickly repairable fuse. I belive both manufactures have a lifetime waranty on their hubs so buy an extra set for spares and send the fraged ones in when they die. Much better than having your ring and pinion as a potential fuse with the CTM's or Ox U-joints.

Or you could get the 30 spline arb with superior shafts or you could get the same arb from tri-county gear with cut down dana 44 shafts.

there is also teraflexes high steer knuckle or down east off roads high steer setup

do the 297 ujoint require new shafts, or do they fit in the originals? also, how strong are those shafts?