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D30 wastage.....

B

brcomputer

NAXJA Forum User
Well this weekend we had some problems...

so needless to say I need some longer brake lines, knuckles, calipers...etc

SO...

I had ...note I said had ... some 6" SS extension lines and had moved the hard lines down 3" .... and still busted one.

Anybody know where I can get some 8" or so extended lines?


Also, how strong is the inner knuckle? Lets say you were traveling along at 35 and yout tire/wheel/hub/caliper/rotor & chunks of knuckle decided to remove themselves from your vehicle and you made a 3 point landing in some soft asphalt bouncing 3 times? What should I look for? Would the knuckle (inner) turn on the tube, crake or bend? I basicly was sliding along the castle nut of the ball joint so would that give? The ball joints feel fine right now but I'm gonna change them anyway...

Just wanna know if I should swap housings or what to look for on the inner knuckle for tweakage...


Don't ask :D
IMG_0760.JPG


bout 2" deep
IMG_0761.JPG
 
Last edited:
OUCH!!:eek:
 
:eek: :eek: woah i bet that made your heart stop and your pants change color! are you sure that line is breaking because of flex? i know of a guy that thought the same thing but it turned out his tire was rippin it off when he was turnin tight and flexed up into the well. at the point where the line comes through the wheel well. just a thought. so you gotta tell us why that wheel decied it wanted a break.:eek:
 
You didn't by chance break an axle, remove it, then drive on it without the stub shaft reinstalled in the hub did you?

Jes
 
Jes said:
You didn't by chance break an axle, remove it, then drive on it without the stub shaft reinstalled in the hub did you?

Jes
Click to expand...

BAAAHAAAAAA..........Hmmm....speaking from experience, are we?....:D
 
cherokeekid95 said:
:eek: :eek: woah i bet that made your heart stop and your pants change color! are you sure that line is breaking because of flex? i know of a guy that thought the same thing but it turned out his tire was rippin it off when he was turnin tight and flexed up into the well. at the point where the line comes through the wheel well. just a thought. so you gotta tell us why that wheel decied it wanted a break.:eek:
Click to expand...

No, pants stayed dry:D Ice chest tipped over filling the cab nicely though.

The line came loose before that .... and on the other side... definitely from flex... so nobody knows where I can get longer lines? I'm guessing 8" extended. The ones I was running are about 24" including the fittings on the end.





UH, get the laughing out of the way, but be merciful as I've had a bad week...

... embarassed to admit that Jes is right. When we got back to camp a bunch of people assured me the hub would retain everything without the outer. So we pulled the shafts to not mess up the R&P anymore than it already was. I learned the hard way it that you need the outers. Guess that's what I get for listening to other people. Surprised how much driving I did on it before it let go.....

ANd I just pulled the cover to learn it was the spiders, not the R&P. Can I change those out without messing up the R&P install?

Oh and any thoughts on me messing up the inner knuckle?
 
brcomputer said:
No, pants stayed dry:D Ice chest tipped over filling the cab nicely though.

The line came loose before that .... and on the other side... definitely from flex... so nobody knows where I can get longer lines? I'm guessing 8" extended. The ones I was running are about 24" including the fittings on the end.
Click to expand...

I used ones from an IFS Chev truck.....had the Autozone dude look up a '92 K30....Hope that helps.....








brcomputer said:

UH, get the laughing out of the way, but be merciful as I've had a bad week...

... embarassed to admit that Jes is right. When we got back to camp a bunch of people assured me the hub would retain everything without the outer. So we pulled the shafts to not mess up the R&P anymore than it already was. I learned the hard way it that you need the outers. Guess that's what I get for listening to other people. Surprised how much driving I did on it before it let go.....
Click to expand...

We're just laughing with you, not at you....:D You do need the outer as you've just experienced and it's associated torque to keep the unit bearing intact....



brcomputer said:

ANd I just pulled the cover to learn it was the spiders, not the R&P. Can I change those out without messing up the R&P install?
Click to expand...

That should work out pretty well. You sound fairly mechanically capable and probably able to get it back together without any issues. If it makes you feel better, get some marking compound and check the setup before you button the cover back on.......
 
Sounds, good. I'll have my buddies at pepbosy look up the lines on that chevy. How much lift were you running with them? I've got about 7" and my shocks droop 2" more than the ones that come with the RE 5.5" kit...


SO how do you guys feel about the strength of the inner knuckle that I skidded on? This is what has me the most concerned....
 
mbryson said:
BAAAHAAAAAA..........Hmmm....speaking from experience, are we?....:D
Click to expand...

No, it happened in Johnson Valley to a certain friend of mine from AZ who shall remain nameless. ;)
Tough learnin' the hard way that the 36mm nut and stub axle are what holds your hub together. :D

Jes
 
brcomputer said:
Sounds, good. I'll have my buddies at pepbosy look up the lines on that chevy. How much lift were you running with them? I've got about 7" and my shocks droop 2" more than the ones that come with the RE 5.5" kit...


SO how do you guys feel about the strength of the inner knuckle that I skidded on? This is what has me the most concerned....
Click to expand...

Enough (about 6"-6.5") to do this with a 35" tire........

poserXJ2.JPG
 
Jes said:
No, it happened in Johnson Valley to a certain friend of mine from AZ who shall remain nameless. ;)
Tough learnin' the hard way that the 36mm nut and stub axle are what holds your hub together. :D

Jes
Click to expand...


makes me feel better though knowing I'm not the only one...



Still waiting to see what yall think about the strength of that d30 inner knuckle....
 
mbryson said:
Enough (about 6"-6.5") to do this with a 35" tire........

poserXJ2.JPG
Click to expand...

This is pretty much how I did it.... but the axle had drooped suddenly, not nice and soft like it did in this pic... bad angle in the pic I know...
IMG_0678.JPG


SO mine is drooping about as much as yours..... how much slack do you have in your line in that pic? Did you move your hard line down like I did as well?
 
brcomputer said:
makes me feel better though knowing I'm not the only one...



Still waiting to see what yall think about the strength of that d30 inner knuckle....
Click to expand...

Tough to say on the knuckle......Take a good look at it. If there are ANY stress indications along the housing, near the 'C', near the pumpkin, etc. I'd get a different candidate housing.

You'll probably be OK, but the safe bet is to inspect ........eyeball is your friend. Spend some time on it and all that attach to it.
 
brcomputer said:
This is pretty much how I did it.... but the axle had drooped suddenly, not nice and soft like it did in this pic... bad angle in the pic I know...
SO mine is drooping about as much as yours..... how much slack do you have in your line in that pic? Did you move your hard line down like I did as well?
Click to expand...


That pic is with a YJ line........The GM IFS line has at least 3-4" on the YJ line if I remember correctly.
 
Hard to say if your inner is toast without a good eyeball and some measurements.

I lost a LF wheel @ 55-60 one fine morning (lugs came loose) and only killed the rotor, hub & lower balljoint...mine didn't bounce though, just drug a 50' furrow in the blacktop. The funny s#it was that my boss rode up about five min after it happened: "Uh Don, looks like you have a little problem..."

I was able to reuse the axle & outer knuckle...(that castle nut & stud on mine was ground down to approx 1/4") My wheel & 33" tire ricochet off an oncoming truck and went into inner orbit...I quit looking for it after a couple days chest-deep in some snaky-lookin brush.

Good luck and I got a spare 30 housing if ya need it.
 
Wow.... glad you didn't do an end over going that fast....

I've been eyeballing mine .... can't see any damage to the housing or the C.

Mine only rode on the castle nut and didn't grind any of it down, none at all. The C itself never touched down hard. The more I look at it the more I think it would have sheared off where the ball joint goes through and it doesn't look tweaked at all so I guess I'm going to get the wheel off and see if the very end where the BJ goes through look OK. If so I'm going to reuse it.


Thanks for all the help and Advice.


Oh and for others.... According to Pepboys the k30 line is about 1" longer than a 6" extended line. I'll have exact measurements soon...
 
Jes said:
No, it happened in Johnson Valley to a certain friend of mine from AZ who shall remain nameless. ;)
Tough learnin' the hard way that the 36mm nut and stub axle are what holds your hub together. :D

Jes
Click to expand...

Dont know who in AZ you are talking about, but it happened to someone I know who was turning into a Wal-Mart parking lot. :)

Fergie
 
You could run you brake lines down the axle houseing and have them come up at the pumpkin so that you don't have as much travel in the line when you flex. Here are some pics of my set up:
picture.JPG

picture.JPG

picture.JPG


sorry about the huge pics, the resized links weren't working
 
have you seen those little magnetically attached angle gauges, they have a 3 or 4 inc dial that points vertically, and a magnet on the side. well, you could use that to measure your caster angel on the damaged side, and also on the good side and make sure they are te same. you can tell usually pretty accuratly with one of those, I have aligned the front end of a few cars that way.
 
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