Help, rear leaf spring removal problems

mark268 · Sep 30, 2003

Hey guys, This may sound very stupid

but..... I am having the darndest time removing my bolts that mount the spring to the hanger. Darn these things are tight ! :bawl:
I am thinking (tell me if I am wrong) that over time the bushing have seated (locked, gummed, whatever) to the bolt and are making it extremely hard to turn.
Does anyone know of a trick or am I doing something wrong? Looks like this is a bolt in from outside of vehicel to a threaded back, not a nut. Correct?
I am to the point of torching (cutting) the spring to remove it from around the bolt and free up the rubber bushing. I have no problem doing this in front, but the rear as we all know is next to the gas tank :explosion :flame: :gee:
Please help oh great ones :worship:

(I am removing the shackle to replace as well)

Kejtar · Sep 30, 2003

hve you hit it with PB blaster? (wd40 doesn't count)..... you have to get some penetrating stuff in it otherwise you might break something and it will become VERY painful!!!!!

Anyways there is couple holes in the framerail which you can use to shoot pb blaster up, shoot it at the crack between the bushing and hanger (where it goes into the rail) and so on.... Do it for 2 or 3 days in a row and THEN attempt removal

Kejtar

Jeep'nD · Sep 30, 2003

I don't think PB is going to help him here. I had the same problem. The sleeve actually froze to the bolt shank in my case and when I tried to turn it out, the sleeve turned right along with the bolt and deformed the bracket that holds the shackle. I turned it back in so that the metal bracket was back to the way that it should be.

On the other hand, a nice dousing of PB ain't gonna hurt either.

GSequoia · Sep 30, 2003

I just did the same. Up front I didn't have too much of a problem, in teh rear it was a pain! I ended up just muscling it off.

Get a LONG breaker bar and have at it. Make sure there aren't any kids in a half mile radius with all the creative language you'll spit though!

mark268 · Sep 30, 2003

haha, yeah my neighbors already think I am a nut. Always cussing and throwing things. I tell my wife it's "car talk" she then shakes her head and wonders back inside

I am going to begin with the blaster tomarrow. This just stinks. Nothing is easy with a Jeep, other then sinking $$ into it.

Kejtar · Sep 30, 2003

you might want to quit while you're ahead then as FYI JEEP stands for Just Empty Every Pocket and things are never simple..... but it pays back on the trail

Kejtar

Duane · Sep 30, 2003

Mark

As long as the bolt is turning in the nut in the frame rail, the best way to get the bolts out is to use 4 to 4.5 inch grinder with a cut off wheel and reach up inside the spring hanger and cut as close to the bushing as possible. Cut the bolt on both sides of the bushing. (cut through the bushing if needed) try to leave as much of the bolt next to the frame rail. you will need this so you can grab it with a visegrip to complete the extraction. I had to do this to get my leafs off my 95. I cut the old leaf off next to the eye to allow for better access for cutting

small pederson · Sep 30, 2003

so i guess my posts arnt good enough to keep around anymore?

Kejtar · Sep 30, 2003

small pederson said:
so i guess my posts arnt good enough to keep around anymore?

??

Hunter-LynchburgVa · Sep 30, 2003

i had a similar problem. took the sawzall to the bolt. that bolt is harder as could be. after about 3 good blades and only partially through the bolt, i backed the jeep outta the garage and line locked it enough to get the rear end bouncing enough to snap the bolt.

Hunter

small pederson · Sep 30, 2003

uh, disregard my previous post :anon:

Speed_racer · Sep 30, 2003

I had the same problem, PB PB PB PB PB + breaker bar + patience + sweat + getting pissed +kicking = FINALLY LOOSE!

90 xj · Sep 30, 2003

you should get ahold of a torch and heat them up thats what i did i had the same problem you did

mark268 · Oct 1, 2003

Whew, I was hoping this was a common problem. It seems to be. I have thought of heating the bolt, then as it cools and re heat the expanding and contracting could break the rust free? I am afraid with the gas tank so close to rear......

This sucks, all I have left to do on my lift is install the new springs and shackles.

90 xj · Oct 1, 2003

i diddnt have a problem with the gas tank being so close ..... just make sure you know where its pointed at ALL times.

mark268 · Oct 1, 2003

Again, I am going to give this a try, I hope tonight. Wish me luck.

Burley · Oct 1, 2003

I just welded some home brew rear upper shock mounts, which is really close to the gas tank. What I did was soak some old bath towels and poke the edges up in between the gas tank and the bottom of the floor panel, letting them hang and drip everywhere. This will give you some margin for error. As was previously posted WATCH WHERE YOU POINT THE WELDER/TORCH. If you smell any kind of gas fumes back there you better not even get a flame anywhere near the back end cause something is leaking somewhere.

Be careful and you'll be fine.

Burley

XJ-wheeler · Oct 1, 2003

I had the same problem on my friends XJ. We took a angle grinder and cut the bolt on each side of the spring then I took a nut and welded it to the part of the bolt still in the frame and backed it out with a wrench, visegrips wouldn't do it.

Jump This · Oct 2, 2003

Come on now boys. Dropping the tank is not that hard.....take your time....do it safe. (was that your mother I just heard?)

mark268 · Oct 2, 2003

dropping the tank :idea: yes safer, but more a pain in the a##. I just might do that.

Help, rear leaf spring removal problems

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