Replaced clutch hydraulics, still problem disengaging

Hi everyone. I recently bought a 1994 Country with 4.0HO and ax15.

Im going to swap a VW TDI into it, but before that I want to drive it around and work out all the kinks that arent engine related.

I bought the XJ with a destroyed slave cylinder. I ordered a pre bled hydraulic assembly that included the master, slave and line all in one.

As I was installing it, i noticed that the clutch release lever had significant amount of play, what i thought might be more than normal.

I have to slam the pedal to the floor for the clutch to actually work and I lift it barely and the XJ moves instantly. Im thinking that either the pre bled system needs to be bled or that the clutch is going out. Does anyone have experience with these systems?

I would be more inclined to think the problem is inside the bell housing.

Considering that one slave cylinder was destroyed, you think there is excessive play on the clutch fork (if I understand you correctly) and the new, complete hydraulic system may also be showing you that there is a problem.

I have been down this road twice before, where multiple mechanics insisted a clutch system just couldn't be bled properly and had thrown replacement hydraulic assemblies at the problem and still could not resolve it. In both cases it proved to a problem inside the bellhousing, but no one wanted to take the effort to open things up and check it out. They would much rather replace the hydraulics over and over and then give up, swearing the thing can't be fixed. Got my father a nearly free truck that way though. All he had to do was pay to have it towed to his house, me to fix it and then the DMV.

Thanks for the reply. This is what i had thought, that either the clutch fork or throwout bearing might be going out.

I bought the XJ for 700 cause the guy didnt want to deal with it anymore. Thats awesome you go the truck for free like that. Its so hard to find cheap XJs that are stock in Oregon, this was a steal. He told me that he had changed the clutch 3 times and never once changed the clutch fork and suggested it should be changed. He is the second owner for 14 years and it has 268,XXX miles.

I eventually will be dropping the transmission to service it and rebuild it for the TDI, I will also be installing new high performance clutch to handle the torque of the new engine.

My goal now is to figure out whats wrong pre swap. So far the clutch issue and the infamous steering wandering is all I have noticed during my first test drive. Oh yeah, someone had cut the buckle on the seatbelt and duct taped a new one in. Will definitely change that soon.

A clutch fork doesn't necessarily ever need to be replaced.

What I would wonder about is placement of the throwout bearing. Both of the vehicles I referenced in my first reply had the throwout bearing incorrectly installed on the clutch fork. Both were '90s era GM vehicles. I don't know if the same mistake could be made on an XJ, but I would look for some photos of how everything is supposed to be installed in there rather than taking it for granted that the previous owner did everything correctly.

I would also be suspect of the TO bearing fork and pivot. I just did a Chevy 1- ton and made the clutch night/day difference.

I won’t be dropping the tranny until I get my garage all setup.

Thanks guys for clearing up any doubts I had.

Will post how this turns out in case someone has a similar problem.

Excess play in the pivot could also cause poor clutch release.

If the clutch was replaced and the flywheel was resurfaced, you may have a problem. If you take metal off the flywheel, you really need to shim the slave cylinder to compensate or you won't get a good release. You end up over stroking the slave and can ruin it in short order.

Jeep says you have to replace, not resurface the flywheel.

four_shot said:

Excess play in the pivot could also cause poor clutch release.

Click to expand...

This

old_man said:

If the clutch was replaced and the flywheel was resurfaced, you may have a problem. If you take metal off the flywheel, you really need to shim the slave cylinder to compensate or you won't get a good release. You end up over stroking the slave and can ruin it in short order.

Jeep says you have to replace, not resurface the flywheel.

Click to expand...

Actually, you don't.

You shim the flywheel.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...OyMLVdYCQAAIuQKaeAjJXc3JGhT_2c3BoCkmEQAvD_BwE

Those were for a ford, but proof of concept.