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Which of these need either locktite or anti-seize?

B

bradleyheathhays

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Lexington, KY
The bolts I'm wondering about are...

- upper and lower shock mounts, front and back
- upper and lower control arm bolts
- sway bar link to axle
- sway bar link to sway bar
- sway bar bracket to subframe
- rear leaf spring bolts - going through the bushings - front and rear
- rear left spring shackle bolts - going from shackle to subframe
 
I would put antisieze on all of them. Pretty much anything chassis or suspension related really. The torque values on all of the things you listed are high enough that it’s highly unlikely they’ll come loose on their own.
 
Or you can spend $5 on a small tub of bearing grease.

I grease my lug nuts too. Been doing that for 30 years and never had a wheel come loose or fall off. Never had a problem getting a nut loose.
 
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Soak all bolts that are rusty in Evaporust (or vinegar) overnight. Then dry them well and I like to shoot some paint on them.
Anything that is going to get wet often gets a dab of antiseize.
Anything going into a dissimilar metal, regardless of location, gets antiseize.
Anything that you're able to, gets a lockwasher
Anything that good practices and/or instructions call for threadlocker, gets it (ie: journals in the engine, etc). BE CAREFUL to use the proper threadlocker.

Obviously, threadlocker precludes antiseize.
 
I would use anti-seize over grease but do agree apply on the entire bolt. Anti-seize isn't just for bolts. For example, when changing the unit bearings, I brush some on the knuckle and bearing meeting surfaces to stop the unit bearing from rusting to the knuckle.
 
md21722 said:
I would use anti-seize over grease but do agree apply on the entire bolt. Anti-seize isn't just for bolts. For example, when changing the unit bearings, I brush some on the knuckle and bearing meeting surfaces to stop the unit bearing from rusting to the knuckle.
Click to expand...

Antiseize makes a mess.......and..........if you use poly, you're gonna grease the shit out of it anyway.

You want to lather up the bolt to fill the gap between the bushings and bolt, keeps moisture at bay and eliminates rust.

There is nothing magical about antiseize.

 
Concur with the last two gents.

When you are done, regularly douse the underside of the vehicle with Fluidfilm. Avoid the exhaust unless you want to smell roasting sheep for a day or so.
 
Jeep Driver said:
Antiseize makes a mess.......and..........if you use poly, you're gonna grease the shit out of it anyway.

You want to lather up the bolt to fill the gap between the bushings and bolt, keeps moisture at bay and eliminates rust.

There is nothing magical about antiseize.

Click to expand...

Use better anti seize?
A good quality nickel anti seize is by far superior to any grease. In function and longevity.
A bolt going through a bushing use grease for metal to metal use anti sieze unless locktite is called for

And dont you have a build thread to update. Seems like all we see are snipits in random threads.
 
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The only difference between grease and antiseize is, antiseize has metal bits in it so when the grease is washed out of evaporates, the metal bits prevent oxidation of the two assemblies.

Molybdenum, copper, nickel, they all do the same job.
 
Just a side note, anytime I'm doing my yearly lube, I put a finger full of grease on all the brake line fittings. Most times there is still grease on the fittings from last year, rag off the old stuff, smear on new stuff.
 
8Mud said:
Just a side note, anytime I'm doing my yearly lube, I put a finger full of grease on all the brake line fittings. Most times there is still grease on the fittings from last year, rag off the old stuff, smear on new stuff.
Click to expand...

A Quick spray of Fluidfilm accomplishes the same thing...
 
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