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blu3fan
September 22nd, 2017, 12:57
Had no issues starting at all recently.
Got in the jeep today went to start.
Nothing just a thud and a kinda click
Pretty sure it's the starter.
I bumped the started with a screwdriver to bridge the connections
It did that same thing. I used a jump box to check the battery
It's not the battery.
So am I correct to think this is either starter
Or the cps or NSs ?

It's a 92 xj 4.0

cwyman6
September 22nd, 2017, 13:37
tap on the starter with a hammer while cranking. If it starts then it needs a starter. Also check for voltage drop on the main power wire while trying to start

blu3fan
September 22nd, 2017, 15:01
I did tap it a few times. No change at all.

blu3fan
September 22nd, 2017, 15:28
Some more info
I did try to start in neutral. According to what I'm reading this rules out nss
Wiring between starter and battery looked in good shape.
Positive was replaced
So this leaves starter and cps
But because I connected the terms on the starter. And it didn't turn I think it's that

Tim_MN
September 22nd, 2017, 16:21
The most common symptoms of a faulty CPS are unexplained stalling and/or simply the starter cranking and the engine never firing up/running.

Clicking and not starting is usually a low voltage issue from:

• dirty, corroded, damaged, or loose wire connections
• internally corroded battery wires
• a short circuit or parasitic drain
• a failing battery
• a failing alternator
• leaving the lights on

Perform routine maintenance of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables or connectors and replace as needed. Copper wires should be copper color, not black or green. Battery terminals and battery wire connectors should bright silver, not dull gray and corroded. Do the same for the grounding wires from the starter to engine block, the ground wires at the coil, and the ground wires from the battery and engine to the Jeep's frame/body. You must remove, wire brush, and clean until shiny the cable/wire ends and whatever they bolt onto.

Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage, bad wire connections, or poor grounds.

Place your DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Multi-Meter) on the 20 volt scale. First check battery voltage by placing your multi-meter's positive lead on the battery's positive post ( the actual post, not the clamp ) and the negative lead on the negative post. You need a minimum of 12 volts to continue testing. Next, leave your meter connected and take a reading while the engine is cranking. Record this voltage reading. Now connect your positive lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter and the negative lead to the starter housing. Again, crank the engine and record the voltage reading. If the voltage reading at the starter is not within 1 volt of battery voltage then you have excessive voltage drop in the starter circuit.

Typical voltage drop maximums:
• starter circuit (including starter solenoid) = 0.60 volt
• battery post to battery terminal end = zero volts
• battery main cable (measured end to end) 0.20 volt
• starter solenoid = 0.20 volt
• battery negative post to alternator metal frame = 0.20 volt
• negative main cable to engine block = 0.20 volt
• negative battery post to starter metal frame = 0.30
• battery positive post to alternator b+stud = 0.5 volt with maximum charging load applied (all accessories turned on)

Test the output at the alternator with your volts/ohms multi-meter. You should be measuring 13.8-14.4 volts. Load testing the alternator is still recommended.


Have your helper turn the ignition key to START while you tap gently on the starter with a hammer. If the engine starts, you probably need a new starter.

Have the battery, starter, and the alternator Load Tested for proper function in a test machine that applies a simulated work load. Handheld testers are inaccurate and will often pass faulty parts.

blu3fan
September 22nd, 2017, 17:22
picking up the starter later on tonight.
will get back with results if that fixes it.
I know I have bridged the terminals before and it cranked. it should be straight power to starter with that so im 99% sure its the starter. but with cars. its always a guess lol

8Mud
September 22nd, 2017, 17:39
picking up the starter later on tonight.
will get back with results if that fixes it.
I know I have bridged the terminals before and it cranked. it should be straight power to starter with that so im 99% sure its the starter. but with cars. its always a guess lol

Statistically, depending on the age of the starter, it is the brushes. The brushes wear down to nubs eventually, takes years. Sometimes it is mud, oil of whatever covering the brushes and causing poor contact. With an oil covered starter, the oil can find it's way inside and coat the brushes. Driving through a deep puddle, the muddy water can find it's way inside and coat the brushes with mud.

But loose or corroded battery clamps can cause that also. Starter uses a lot of amperage, which means a lot of electricity flow. Sometimes on grease covered or corroded or loose battery connections you can actually hear them crackle. Basically poor connections act the same as too small of a wire, you don't get the flow you need and things overheat. Battery poles are too small of a thing to neglect, shiny clean, oil free, tight but not so tight they break or split.

Be careful bridging the starter, you can melt the threads on the stud ends. Best to bridge nut to nut.

blu3fan
September 22nd, 2017, 17:46
I rebuilt the starter on the motorcycle 6 mo. ago so I understand how they fail.

mine appears to be coated in oil. so this may explain some of it.
(oil was from the prior rear crank seal leak)

blu3fan
September 23rd, 2017, 00:22
Insta start.
It was the starter.
Yay mobile again !