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DragonAltair
September 21st, 2017, 15:05
I know there is probably a million and 1 versions of this and i'm sorry. I am looking to upgrade/Modify my 01 XJ 4 door. Everything on it is stock except for I just recently put on 4 235-75-R15 goodyear tires for inspection and a pair of monroe gasmatic lt for same reason. So now that it's inspection good It's time to spend my time upgrading.

Basically my goal is to create a XJ for Climbing and Going on trails and pushing to suspension and body and taking it places I probably shouldn't and getting back out. I still want to keep performance in it though for being able to do say go off the road into some fields and hills and just run around them.

I'm new to this vehicle and style of performance so I need as much help as you can give me. Any other info I can provide about the vehicle for you I will just wasn't sure what was necessary info.

Green XJ Jeep
September 21st, 2017, 15:42
A lot of it is going to depend on how deep your pockets are.

Tim_MN
September 21st, 2017, 16:22
Do lots of reading on the various 4x4 Forums, you will have to filter some BS. Find out the XJ Cherokee dos and don'ts, and what works and what does not. The basics you will need are: a lift kit, some more aggressive tires, skid plates, and safe/secure recovery points. A locking differential will be extremely beneficial.

RCP Phx
September 21st, 2017, 16:40
2 things that are important to you going in.........

97-01 are more likely to have rear driveshaft vibes do to the external slip-yoke
00-01 are more likely to have front driveshaft vibes do to the LP30

The rest of the information and parts is pretty standard for all years.
What engine, transmission, transfer case, and rear axle do you have?

DragonAltair
September 21st, 2017, 19:00
2 things that are important to you going in.........

97-01 are more likely to have rear driveshaft vibes do to the external slip-yoke
00-01 are more likely to have front driveshaft vibes do to the LP30

The rest of the information and parts is pretty standard for all years.
What engine, transmission, transfer case, and rear axle do you have?Not sure how much this helps but here is my sheet list for it from factory. I'm pretty sure that's pretty accurate other than what i mentioned i replaced but I'll go look at rear axle and tcase and report backhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170922/9b7320011609d78ce6147573e3be0534.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170922/296546e97e6cd47fb0d6b32d7e94a727.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170922/a4dacd212466213b7441db8cea1f5643.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170922/13da8d1b11ac568659622aef597468a6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170922/813975496ca621d5945d5067892a2ced.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170922/ea0dbbe3239bc62e623c1b1bbd3157d4.jpg

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DragonAltair
September 21st, 2017, 19:11
2 things that are important to you going in.........

97-01 are more likely to have rear driveshaft vibes do to the external slip-yoke
00-01 are more likely to have front driveshaft vibes do to the LP30

The rest of the information and parts is pretty standard for all years.
What engine, transmission, transfer case, and rear axle do you have?231 is case and 8.25 https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170922/f4515baf2fba40cafc21b053e59de2bd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170922/5d2fb297bbc6b590f21f5d5740f160d5.jpg

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XJensen
September 21st, 2017, 20:26
Take a peak to see if it has ABS. Most likely not and it will be a 29 spline 8.25. that is a good thing. Ditch the low pinion front for a high pinion 30 or better.

Lots to do but just read up and most has to do with what you want to do.

DragonAltair
September 21st, 2017, 20:33
Take a peak to see if it has ABS. Most likely not and it will be a 29 spline 8.25. that is a good thing. Ditch the low pinion front for a high pinion 30 or better.

Lots to do but just read up and most has to do with what you want to do.No ABS. Looked for that earlier while thinking of replacing axle. However i can't seem to find the fog lights on this thing. It has fuses where it labels for fog lamps and also the switch lights up inside the vehicle but no changes in lights and can't say i see them. Not important to this but just odd to me. But ABS is a no.

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RCP Phx
September 21st, 2017, 21:12
I don't know how much lift your thinking about, but mines a 2k at 5.5". When I started to lift it originally, I tried the H-n-T SYE kit with no luck and ended up with a HD SYE. At my final lift with my LP D30 I have to run minimum caster to resolve the front vibes.

Green XJ Jeep
September 22nd, 2017, 07:24
Read through this build
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1074177

DragonAltair
September 22nd, 2017, 07:24
I don't know how much lift your thinking about, but mines a 2k at 5.5". When I started to lift it originally, I tried the H-n-T SYE kit with no luck and ended up with a HD SYE. At my final lift with my LP D30 I have to run minimum caster to resolve the front vibes.I'm thinking 3.5-4. I don't think I should need to go higher than that and random question since I'm asking questions on this post. What is the normal temp range for this? Also on the driver side of the radiator i have this little metal tube coning out of it leaking orange shit all over and gunking up thr entire left side. I adk about the temp because qhen i first got it i was running at 210 on the guage and never moved. Then for a while it ran between 150idle and 180 when driving and i trued revving/going fast and never went above 180 but now it's back to being stuck at 210

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Green XJ Jeep
September 22nd, 2017, 07:29
210 is probably the average temp. At least it is on mine anyhow.
Sounds like either your temp sender is no good or your thermostat is stuck open.

smokeyyank
September 22nd, 2017, 11:07
Before building it I'd junk the crap head that the 00-01 had. Also as suggested ditch the LP30 when you get to the point of building the axles. Rest is straight forward and just depends on what you want to rig to do and how much you want to spend. A few bolt on's and a traction device do wonders. XJ's a great platforms that don't need a lot to do a lot.

DragonAltair
September 23rd, 2017, 10:11
Also i'm not sure how much of a concern this is but i've seen a smoke like substance coming out of the very top vent here b4https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170923/3d16b2a30312ec1bfe4fd075b4803e2f.jpg

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Bent
September 24th, 2017, 08:09
I got the impression that you are new to four wheeling from your original post. If not disregard this recommendation.

If new then I recommend skipping the traction devices; lockers and limited slips. Instead install sway bar disconnects and learn to drive with open diffs. A rig on 31" tires and open differentials can go most places a rig with lockers can IF the person behind the wheel has taken the time to learn to drive.

Like others have said, read, read and then read some more. I spent the better part of 18 months researching and planning before I mad a single change to my stock XJ. Looking back I have to say that I should have put disconnects on the sway bar much sooner.


EDIT: Rocker protection, skid plates, and recovery points (front and rear) should be first on your list.

TRCM
September 24th, 2017, 12:01
Also i'm not sure how much of a concern this is but i've seen a smoke like substance coming out of the very top vent here b4

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1) Please resize your pics to a much smaller version before you post them

2) The smoke is likely moisture from the heat & A/C system, as sometimes, the A/C & heater cores can have residual moisture on them when you start the fan up.

Keep an eye on it tho, as I did have a vehicle burn up due to a leaf that got up against an open element resistor in the ventilation system.

DragonAltair
September 25th, 2017, 11:03
1) Please resize your pics to a much smaller version before you post them

2) The smoke is likely moisture from the heat & A/C system, as sometimes, the A/C & heater cores can have residual moisture on them when you start the fan up.

Keep an eye on it tho, as I did have a vehicle burn up due to a leaf that got up against an open element resistor in the ventilation system.Sorry about the pictures. I wasn't aware of their sizing since they were all straight from phone's camera and i nevrr messed with the camera settings. I will make sure to change that b4 next i post like that. Thank you for informing me.

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DragonAltair
September 25th, 2017, 11:08
I got the impression that you are new to four wheeling from your original post. If not disregard this recommendation.

If new then I recommend skipping the traction devices; lockers and limited slips. Instead install sway bar disconnects and learn to drive with open diffs. A rig on 31" tires and open differentials can go most places a rig with lockers can IF the person behind the wheel has taken the time to learn to drive.

Like others have said, read, read and then read some more. I spent the better part of 18 months researching and planning before I mad a single change to my stock XJ. Looking back I have to say that I should have put disconnects on the sway bar much sooner.


EDIT: Rocker protection, skid plates, and recovery points (front and rear) should be first on your list.I am incredibly new. Currently this Jeep is my only vehicle but i'm looking for another so i can start taking apart and rebuilding it. I picked it up for 400 so any amount of money I throw at it will cost more than I paid for it so I figure i'll just start from the ground up and make it something i can have fun with and just go. Budget is kind of an issue for me atm but in all honestly i'll spend 5 years with it on stands and working on it until I can take it out if I need to.

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Rob Mayercik
September 25th, 2017, 14:28
Bent's got it right - get rocker protection, some skidplates, and recovery points (I'll add swaybar disconnects here, it makes a huge difference off-road, and a full-size spare tire if you don't already have one), and go learn what you and the truck can do before committing to any major mods. (hint: probably a lot more than you think!).

Since you've never done this before, I'd start checking into local Jeep clubs and/or offroad parks to find something called a "Jeep 101" event you can go to - this is an event where experienced 'wheelers will show folks new to the activity some of the ins and outs of how to handle a vehicle off-road, things to do and not to do, and the sorts of things you should carry in the truck when off-road.

I got my start at such an event, and it was well worth it - I learned a lot about what my Jeep could do (bone stock, on street tires), and what I was capable of handling in terms of comfort level.

Other than adding skids, recovery points, and getting a full-size spare at the start, I only upgraded as things wore out and I needed to replace them, so I took a long, slow path from bone-stock to where I am now (and I'm still not that hardcore). Doing that gave me time to learn at each step the nuances of my Jeep, how it reacted to terrain, what sounds it makes, etc., and to up my driving skills (particularly to keep up with the bigger guys; though they did go easier when leading me around, they did challenge me).

Having a well-equipped vehicle is only a part of off-roading - understanding that vehicle's mannerisms, quirks, and limitations will allow you to get the most out of it, however it's configured.

Rod Knee
September 26th, 2017, 07:49
You've received some good advice so far. A Cherokee with a small lift and 31 inch tires is very capable with a good driver even with open diffs. I have sets of both 33 inch and 31 inch tires and honestly, for multipurpose street and trail use, I prefer the 31's. Lift your rig as minimally as possible for your intended tire size. Adjusting bumpstops and trimming is key to minimally lifting. When regearing, err on the side of having gears that are too low (numerically high) rather than too high. Be skeptical of "must have upgrades".

Green XJ Jeep
September 27th, 2017, 09:09
With a $400 rig i say start with a good set of 235's for now and put your money into maintenance stuff and replacing worn parts for now. Do some light trails and learn to drive it off road first.

DragonAltair
September 27th, 2017, 09:21
With a $400 rig i say start with a good set of 235's for now and put your money into maintenance stuff and replacing worn parts for now. Do some light trails and learn to drive it off road first.Yeah. I definitely need to do replacing and fixing. I really need to fix my radiator. I don't think it's broken but driver side it's leaking orange shit all over driver side of the compartment and all over axle is and everything. I'm guessing it's been doing it for a while (since b4 i bought it) because everything on that side is gunked to all hell. I just don't have the money to rip apart the front end and fix/replace all i might find. I already know I need a new front axle. And most everything on it is from factory so there is a lot I'm looking to replace.

Also not sure if this is a wiring issue but I've noticed that if i leave headlights or the interior headlamps on while the car is off it'll kill the battery in minutes. I've gotten it to start every time but the guage is down to 9.5v-10v when it drains. Battery+alternator tested good and as soon as it starts jumps up to 14v and stays and battery status charged at 12v after running. Aa long as no power is being used the battery stays charged of course but the drain seems oddly large.

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Green XJ Jeep
September 27th, 2017, 13:33
Stock headlights use alot of juice just make sure they are turned off.
There is alot you can do before you get into lifts but if your are restricted by a budget look into bastard packs

DragonAltair
September 27th, 2017, 14:38
Stock headlights use alot of juice just make sure they are turned off.
There is alot you can do before you get into lifts but if your are restricted by a budget look into bastard packsI'm not too concerned about lift right now. If anything i'll look to trim and remodel the fenders before i look to lift the thing. Honestly i'll probably do modifications to run it at stock height b4 i go and lift and bigger tires.

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Rob Mayercik
September 28th, 2017, 15:17
How old is the battery?

DragonAltair
September 29th, 2017, 10:46
How old is the battery?I'm not sure but it tested good as did the alternator. I couldn't find a sticker on the battery for a date though.

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Rob Mayercik
September 29th, 2017, 12:16
A fully charged battery should be closer to 13-13.5V at rest. Should not drop much below 11.5-12V when cranking. You should be able to run the headlights for a couple hours at least before a good battery would be too low to crank; dropping from 12V to 9.5-10V after "a few minutes" with the headlights on does not sound like a good battery to me.

It's probably time to take that battery to a parts store and have them put a proper load-test on it.

DragonAltair
September 29th, 2017, 13:23
A fully charged battery should be closer to 13-13.5V at rest. Should not drop much below 11.5-12V when cranking. You should be able to run the headlights for a couple hours at least before a good battery would be too low to crank; dropping from 12V to 9.5-10V after "a few minutes" with the headlights on does not sound like a good battery to me.

It's probably time to take that battery to a parts store and have them put a proper load-test on it.Yeah. I left the headlights on once and went inside to pay for gas and when i went to start it it had trouble cranking. ~10-15 minutes of paying/gas going into it.

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