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Project_reaper
August 23rd, 2017, 22:17
Look I know this has probably been asked a hundred times. But I can not find any solid answers. I have a 98 xj 5 speed, about 2 months ago I put a rebuilt head due to bad valve and having a misfire while I was there I decided I would do a new timing set knowing it's never been changed before and at that point I said the hel* with it lets do a cam so I installed a lunati cam in. After I finished the started up drove it around and sounded awesome. After breaking the cam in I got a code for cam and crank sync. I did not dagree the cam because I knew there was no way to adjust timing on the 4.0 and could not find a timing set that was adjustable. I even called 505 performance and told them what I was doing and bought the timing set from them. And the one they sent me was not adjustable either. So I timed it as you normally would. Upon taking off from a stop there is no power then around maybe 1100 to 1500 rpms the jeep wakes up and moves like boost has kicked in. How the hell can I adjust the timing on this thing to clear that code and get that initial take off power bad?

RCP Phx
August 23rd, 2017, 22:33
I don't think that's your issue, but they do make adj sets!
http://i721.photobucket.com/albums/ww220/apayne82/miscelanuos/P1080499_zps1kyaymct.jpg

typerr
August 23rd, 2017, 22:55
Your cam position sensor is built into the distributor. Are you sure the distributor was installed correctly?

Project_reaper
August 24th, 2017, 06:55
Yes I'm a 100% sure the distributor is in right. There is only one way for it to go, being as it has the tabs on the side of it.

typerr
August 24th, 2017, 07:16
Yes I'm a 100% sure the distributor is in right. There is only one way for it to go, being as it has the tabs on the side of it.

Not true. Look up the install procedure and you will see that yes there is one position for the body of the distributor but you also have to line up the pulse ring alignment holes with a punch before you install.

cal
August 24th, 2017, 07:23
yes i tend to agree the distributor may be out 1 tooth.


and yes there are several different adjustable timing sets for the 4.0. stop listening to the idiots at 505 performance and start calling someone with a better reputation.


for all things 4.0 go fast.

Russ Pottenger
Bishop-Buehl Racing Engines
531 N. Lyall Avenue
West Covina, California 91790
Work (626) 967-1000
Fax (626) 967-7836
Cell (626) 673-2203
Email/PayPal: RussBnBracing@yahoo.com

denverd1
August 24th, 2017, 09:30
timing isn't computer controlled on 97+?

cal
August 24th, 2017, 09:33
Its computer controlled on all 4.0's, but if you plug the distributor in wrong it will still be off.

denverd1
August 24th, 2017, 10:00
Its computer controlled on all 4.0's, but if you plug the distributor in wrong it will still be off.

oh yea, if crank and dizz aren't in sync....

Project_reaper
August 24th, 2017, 10:43
Not true. Look up the install procedure and you will see that yes there is one position for the body of the distributor but you also have to line up the pulse ring alignment holes with a punch before you install.

I have the proper holes lined up before installing the distributor with a punch.

Project_reaper
August 24th, 2017, 10:47
yes i tend to agree the distributor may be out 1 tooth.


and yes there are several different adjustable timing sets for the 4.0. stop listening to the idiots at 505 performance and start calling someone with a better reputation.


for all things 4.0 go fast.

Russ Pottenger
Bishop-Buehl Racing Engines
531 N. Lyall Avenue
West Covina, California 91790
Work (626) 967-1000
Fax (626) 967-7836
Cell (626) 673-2203
Email/PayPal: RussBnBracing@yahoo.com

505 was the only place that I could find when I did a search. And they are the only ones that I've talked to about the situation. I will have to call this guy later on today and talk to him. I also tried moving the distributor a tooth advanced and retard with no luck

RCP Phx
August 24th, 2017, 11:09
My pic was of the Rollmaster set that I used and so does Russ!
http://www.romacusa.com/index.html

cal
August 24th, 2017, 11:37
505 was the only place that I could find when I did a search. And they are the only ones that I've talked to about the situation. I will have to call this guy later on today and talk to him. I also tried moving the distributor a tooth advanced and retard with no luck

505 has a long record of selling people very expensive 'full race' engines, and after they blow up and are dissected, whats inside isn't remotely similar to what was in the invoice.

Or selling people engines that blow up on the first run out, and then refuse to answer the phone or call back.

Not a company I'd trust for information or parts. Not that it sounds like you have a parts problem in this instance - but its the wrong place to start for sure. :)

RCP Phx
August 24th, 2017, 12:02
What Lunati cam did you get? You said you didn't degree it, so how do you know you got it timed right?

Project_reaper
August 25th, 2017, 13:34
I went with the biggest cam they make for the 4.0 with out having to do anything to the engine, I forget what part number but it's part of the voodoo line. I don't know how true center line is on the camshaft other then that everything is. I can not see this issue being more then a degree or 2 difference to settle my crank and cam Correlation code. That's my biggest thing I need to know how I can adjust timing external without doing major disassembly. I have inspection in November out here in jersey I don't think this code is going to cause me to fail but I'd like to fix it before then. And also to prove a point that a 200,000+ old jeep can get a legit inspection stick ����

RCP Phx
August 25th, 2017, 13:52
Without knowing the cam you bought, most I see on Summit are large enough to require some cam dialing in!

Project_reaper
August 25th, 2017, 21:55
I'll get the part number tomorrow I have the box at work