wiring for taurus fan please!

i am not the greatest at electrical and want to build a good setup for Taurus fan.

i want to be able to turn the fan on high, low, auto with ac clutch OR completely off.

so i have the following
Taurus fan.
on off on toggle switch, also many on, off toggle switches.
125 amp continuous duty relay used in golf carts.
couple 30/40 amp Bosch relays.
different gauge wire, and connectors, shrink wrap, solder.

can anyone make me a diagram that shows the gauge wires and where they should connect to, i know i need 8 gauge wire for fan to relay, but what gauge wire to the toggle that goes in the cab for me to select the speed? or what gauge from small relay to ignition source?

any help would be great, i have read gojeeps writeup over and over and searched yahoo and google looking at different types but i don't see any that are on off on toggle selected or have wire gauge sizes on the diagram.

Wiring is specific to location and battery/alternator amps. You're better off finding a local to help you.

You are even x2 better off returning everything you bought because the electric fan set up is a downgrade in every way. Not to be a downer but a mechanical fan is going to outperform any reasonable electric fan. Plus you still have the smaller electric fan beside it. Just wire that thing to a switch. That has been covered a lot.


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I had that fan on my foxbody with anon off on toggle. While I'm not sure about the ac, all you need is for one position of the switch to control one relay and the other side of the switch to control the other relay. You'd be fine using 16g for the relay controls. I never had to run mine on the high speed. I used a normal 30a Bosch relay for the low speed.

Why do you want that much control?

I've got that style setup in my buggy, but I need it for for more reasons.

My controller for the high side, is a PWM 0-100% controller, so no high spiking.

AS far as the fan's ability, the taurus fan is one of the few fans that can work. On high, it pulls upwards of 4500CFM. But, you'll need to make sure you have a proper shroud as well.

The problem of not having a real controller on there, is that you'll have issues with say...the high speed...kicking on and off continuously. Low might just be a hair to low to keep the XJ cool. It keeps my buggy right at 210, but mines also rear mounted and has much more fluid capacity.

You best best if you really want to, is to do a taurus fan, and mount up a PWM controller like DCControls or the Derale controller.

yup going to make my own shroud for the Taurus fan out of thin metal if i cant get it to fit nice in my XJ with its own shroud.

i want that much control because that is the way i would like to wire it, that is the setup i am looking to run. i want to be able to select from low to high or off if i am in deep water.

i have never heard of a Taurus fan being a "downgrade" from the stock mechanical fan.

so from what i gather i can use 16 gauge wire from my switch that will be in my cab to my relays that will be mounted up by the passenger firewall.

so 8 gauge wire from fan to relays high and low side.

what size for switch to 12v power? and what in my cab should i try to tap into? i would like the switch to be powered when the key is flipped to the ON position in the ignition.

All my switches are Carling Contura V's.

I would still say if you want to run that fan, get a PWM controller.

From there, you can have a switch, or dual rocker switch that would allow for low, high, and off.

You're going to regret, and have issues, with one speed being on/off.

High can very well be too much, and low might not be enough.

I understand how you list it out is how you "want" it, but how you're envisioning it isn't going to give you the most positive results, and possibly end up with burnt relays/switches.

freerider15

i wheel monthly mostly in Minnesota and Wisconsin and weekends i am not off roading. i tow a atv trailer and camping gear, i am very hard on my xj in the rocks and hills.
my cooling system works good but on trails i don't like seeing the temp creep up to much so i would like to power a fan on high to cool it faster.

should i stay with mechanical fan or "downgrade" to a Taurus electric fan?

I think you'd be happier with a stock system with mechanical fan.

But, you could look into upgrading the fan clutch to that of a ZJ one, and maybe a better aftermarket radiator if need be.

You could put your electric fan on a switch as well (with a diode in line), to turn it on before temps creep up.

While having all that "control" might be nice, I forsee the following scenarios for you:

- The fan on high cools you too much (it will with mine)
- You turn off high, turn on low...and it's just not *quite* enough, as you're sitting over 210 (I believe the CFM of the Taurus fan on low, is about that of the mechanical fan).

So, you'll constantly be switching between the two, if going by toggle.

If you have it to where the cooling system kicks it on, the amount it's going to be toggling on and off will be annoying, and might not be the best for your system overall.

A PWM from Derale is pretty cheap, and pretty easy to setup (as it's not much unlike what I have). If you're dead set on the Taurus fan, I'd just get one of those, and call it a day. You can wire it like I have it to where it's Auto (fan controller which uses High), Off, and Bypass (fully on in Low, in case the fan controller dies, or something happens with the wiring, etc.)

does this look like a good setup?

see i like the idea of sitting on low and if the temp gets up my ac fan auto kicks on and brings the temp down.
so the low and ac fan will cool it pretty normal/stock?

but say i am on a hard trail in line with a group moving i have the option to flip it to high and really cool the engine down if need be.

i do have the zj hd clutch fan and a 3 row "police package" radiator.

fuelfox4949 said:

see i like the idea of sitting on low and if the temp gets up my ac fan auto kicks on and brings the temp down.
so the low and ac fan will cool it pretty normal/stock?

but say i am on a hard trail in line with a group moving i have the option to flip it to high and really cool the engine down if need be.

i do have the zj hd clutch fan and a 3 row "police package" radiator.

Click to expand...

Why would you want to have to mess with it to begin with, instead of it regulating and controlling itself better, faster, and more efficient than you can?

If you already have the ZJ fan clutch and that radiator, you should have no cooling problems what so ever. The only times you might, would be towing something heavy/driving up a steep pass (or both).

In reality it's up to you, but I'm one of those that would much rather set it and forget it, instead of constantly needing to fumble with it, switch things on and off, etc. to make sure my temps are fine.

Putting the high feed on based on the AC or temp kicking in could work, but again, just making more work, more failure points, etc.

In this case, when it comes to cooling, keeping it simple to me is key.

This is what you want, or IMO should want instead:

https://derale.com/products/electri...oller/pwm-fan-controller-push-in-probe-detail

thats exactly what i was looking at when you told me about derale. so it does control the 2 speed fan? 65 amps below what the ford fan creates?

i do 100 percent agree with you to keep it simple and you have made me think of a different way to look at this setup so i thank you for that.

i do like that there is no "Shock" to the system on startup because it slowly starts up spinning.... correct?

i was looking at the npt fitting not the push in probe model.

darn you now i have more to consider 150 for that setup, 109 for dccontrol, hmmm

I've got DCcontrol, but the Derale didn't exist when I bought mine.

I'd go with the Derale, for the simple fact that it can be easily exchanged, support is there, etc.

DCControls is a 1 man operation, and the support/contact leaves a lot to be desired. Mine took like 2 months to get it, I could Amazon Prime the Derale controller.

The controller removes the amperage spike, as it's not just on/off.

It's a 0% to 100% controller, so it speeds up and slows down as necessary.

My DCcontrols one, sometimes it will barely spin the fan, other times the fan will be on full blast for a few seconds. It only spins the amount needed to keep the temp as needed.

I've had some slight issues with it, but they were for the most part my fault, as I've got mine on a switch setup as well, instead of just straight run like the instructions have it.

themauler said:

Wiring is specific to location and battery/alternator amps. You're better off finding a local to help you.

You are even x2 better off returning everything you bought because the electric fan set up is a downgrade in every way. Not to be a downer but a mechanical fan is going to outperform any reasonable electric fan. Plus you still have the smaller electric fan beside it. Just wire that thing to a switch. That has been covered a lot.


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Click to expand...

Yeah electric fans don't work, you'll get mixed reviews on that subject here.
However, imo a combination of the existing mechanical and electric fan w/ a properly operating engine and cooling system is sufficient.

You can upgrade your electric fan by doing what was described in op. I found that installing a 180 degree thermostat a Spectra premium cu1193 106 radiator and Imperial electric 226208 adjustable fan control works great in this "climate". My engine has 185k on it, jeep has 31" tires w/3.55's and is a 242tcase.

So anyway, originally I plumbed the probe into a"t" w/ the coolant temp sensor which worked good. But recently I felt it would work better installed into the t-stat housing(drilled and tapped the housing to accomplish that)and re-installed the coolant temp sensor in the original location.

Wiring is simple, disconnect the oem wiring to the fan and install the adj. thermostat per. instructions, you'll interconnect the orange and blue together for single fan operation, that way the fan turns on w/ac if you have it. You can use the oem negative wire for the fan or install your own, the green wire for a/c gets spliced to the compressor clutch signal wire and I connected the 12v ignition wire for the relay directly to the battery w/ the supply wire.

Adjustment of on/off is up to you.

Temp. gauge holds steady under 210 degree which I like, but others don't!

Just my 2cent:roll:

fuelfox4949 said:

thats exactly what i was looking at when you told me about derale. so it does control the 2 speed fan? 65 amps below what the ford fan creates?

i do 100 percent agree with you to keep it simple and you have made me think of a different way to look at this setup so i thank you for that.

i do like that there is no "Shock" to the system on startup because it slowly starts up spinning.... correct?

i was looking at the npt fitting not the push in probe model.

darn you now i have more to consider 150 for that setup, 109 for dccontrol, hmmm

Click to expand...

I like the idea of the soft start on the derale. High speed will pull about 90a on a full start and a continuous 30a. Soft start should eliminate that and be a lot easier on the electrical system.

i am going to go look at auto fan controllers and hook it up similar to the diagram on the 1st page, then when i have enough money i am going to buy a derale pmw because that looks like a great setup.

fuelfox4949 said:

i do have the zj hd clutch fan and a 3 row "police package" radiator.

Click to expand...

Are you having overheating issues with this combination?
If everything working correctly, it should never overheat, the ZJ fan clutch is engaged all the time and actually over cooled my XJ, in cooler weather.

no overheating, but on trails and towing my atv trailer and camping gear it likes to creep up here and there on the heat gauge.
also my fan clutch is getting on in age its going on 9 years old i want to upgrade before it poops out.

but as i stated earlier in the thread i wanted to be able to flip a fan on high and cool my rig when need be.
now i have been shown other options of controlling the fan and will decide on which setup i like. such as the derale pwm is probably what i may end up with eventually.

not sure why a few are sooooo against pulling the mechanical and putting a large electric fan in.

fuelfox4949 said:

not sure why a few are sooooo against pulling the mechanical and putting a large electric fan in.

Click to expand...

I don't see a need to re-invent the wheel here.

You want to control the temp of your engine? That's why there is a thermostat which you can buy cooler thermostat temps.

You want the electric fan to turn on and off? Well that is what a fan clutch does.

Your engine is not going to cool any faster towing if you have a "bigger" electric fan.

It sounds like your fan clutch is old and you need a larger radiator. If you still want control then just wire up the stock electric fan. But by all means go ahead and remove all of the mechanical equipment out of the equation that engineers designed and try a better way at cooling a cast iron engine in a tiny engine bay.:eeks1: