• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Quick question about welding.

Borgli

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Hagerman
Hey guys! My stroker build is chugging along nicely. Now I just need some help with some welding questions.
I plan on stripping the body to bare metal and weld the rust spots. My question; how do I prepare and paint the fresh metal? If I coat the back side of it(inside frame or body) if I paint it before welding it will catch fire and not weld very well. But if I weld it on bare, I won't be able to get as good of a coat on...

What is the common practice?
 
Last edited:
i cleaned the factory undercoat off and just put down an etch primer to keep things from rusting. after i test fitted and mocked up the stiffeners i marked where all my edges and plug welds were... i left what i could primed and just cleaned where i was grinding to bear metal. plug welded the holes, stitch welded the perimeter. did another bit of etch primer to keep it from rusting while i was working...

when i was ready to paint... i seam sealed all the edges. brushed on a primer/rust inhibitor (i think i used mastercoat), and then rattle canned black. its holding up great.
 
Weldable primer!
 
Weldable primer!

+1

Use it in all the places you won't be able to access again.

After you finish welding, if there are any areas where the weldable primer is still accessible then brush/sand/grind those areas clean and use a regular primer, followed by paint.

Weldable primer is a miserable excuse for a primer in an accessible area, but it is the best answer I have found for the insides of welding situations.
 
Use the copper based weld thru primer, can't remember the name. The zinc based causes crappy welds on sheet metal. Also wax coat inside after welding/painting if you can gain access.
 
Yep, that's it. Used it for years while doing muscle car restorations. Then 3m makes a wax coating that can be applied behind once everything is done to further protect it. Comes in a can with an extension tube.
 
p12515Z-Internal-Frame-Coat.jpg


http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle-qt.html

Highly recommended.
 
That's an interesting product, not sure how well it sticks to non prepped surfaces though. What we used at the body shop was a similar can/nozzle but was a wax based product. Im pretty sure it was 3M but may have been another brand. Try 3M rust fighter 08892
 
When I replaced my floor boards, I sand blasted, then used standard self etching primer with a 'high performance enamel' top coat. Then I went through with a grinder where I'd be welding to get back to bare metal, then painted over the welds afterwards, then used 3M Seam Sealer to finish it up. No paint caught on fire even though I was welding like a half inch away from it, and I haven't had any corrosion issues.

I used 18ga mild steel for the floor boards and am very happy with it if anyone's curious.
 
Back
Top