Fuel injector swap gone wrong?

Just got new 12 hole fule injectors for my 98 XJ.
Did some read up and watch some videos and thought it was a pretty simple job. After i've replaced them and made sure I got fuel in fuel rail. No leakage.

So when I went and tried to crank it a short tick noise and the jeep is dead, no electrical at all. Checked all the fuses and they seemed fine.

So I discharged the jeep by holding the battery cables together for 30 sec.

After reconnecting the battery I got power again but if I try to crank it again, back with a dead as a door nail jeep.

Is it the ASD that kicking in?

Here's the injectors I've been using https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282117017278

Not sure how to proceed and would really appreciate help with this.

Thanks!

Sounds like a battery problem, either discharged or dying.

Proceed as with any other no-start.

Clicking and not starting is usually a low voltage issue from:
• dirty, corroded, damaged, or loose wire connections
• internally corroded battery wires
• a failing battery
• a failing alternator
• leaving the lights on

Perform routine maintenance of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables or connectors and replace as needed. Copper wires should be copper color, not black or green. Battery terminals and battery wire connectors should bright silver, not dull gray and corroded. Do the same for the grounding wires from the starter to engine block, the ground wires at the coil, and the ground wires from the battery and engine to the Jeep's frame/body. You must remove, wire brush, and clean until shiny the cable/wire ends and whatever they bolt to.

Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage, bad wire connections, or poor grounds.

Place your DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Multi-Meter) on the 20 volt scale. First check battery voltage by placing your multi-meter's positive lead on the battery's positive post ( the actual post, not the clamp ) and the negative lead on the negative post. You need a minimum of 12 volts to continue testing. Next, leave your meter connected and take a reading while the engine is cranking. Record this voltage reading. Now connect your positive lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter and the negative lead to the starter housing. Again, crank the engine and record the voltage reading. If the voltage reading at the starter is not within 1 volt of battery voltage then you have excessive voltage drop in the starter circuit.

Typical voltage drop maximums:
• starter circuit (including starter solenoid) = 0.60 volt
• battery post to battery terminal end = zero volts
• battery main cable (measured end to end) 0.20 volt
• starter solenoid = 0.20 volt
• battery negative post to alternator metal frame = 0.20 volt
• negative main cable to engine block = 0.20 volt
• negative battery post to starter metal frame = 0.30
• battery positive post to alternator b+stud = 0.5 volt with maximum charging load applied (all accessories turned on)


Exchange the ASD relay with a similar relay in the fuse box under the hood near the battery.

Have your helper turn the ignition key to START while you tap on the starter with a hammer. If the engine starts, you probably need a new starter.

Test the output at the alternator with your volts/ohms multi-meter. You should be measuring 13.8-14.4 volts. Have the battery, starter, and the alternator Load Tested for proper function in a test machine that applies a simulated work load. Handheld testers are inaccurate and will often pass faulty parts.

Thanks, the battery is fairly new and had no problem starting it just before I began swapping the injectors. When turning the key before turnover the battery voltage on the dashboard is over 12v. Will go through you check list Tim_MN. Also there's only one click before dying completely.

clean the battery posts and inside the terminals with a battery brush. They need to be nice and shiny when you put them together. A dull surface is an oxidized surface, and oxidization does not conduct electricity.

Could there be anything other than the battery since it's new and the connectors clean?

What you describe (single click and loss of all electrical power) is classic dirty battery terminal or bad battery.

Digger87xj said:

What you describe (single click and loss of all electrical power) is classic dirty battery terminal or bad battery.

Click to expand...

I agree, he should also test that the connectors on the battery are tight, and that any clamped wires (I use after market brass clamps and reuse the wires on mine) are clean and not loose. The click could also be a bad starter solenoid but that would not kill all power to the jeep. Bad ignition switch would? But it sounds like a bad battery if the battery connections are indeed TIGHT and clean.

I have recently had problems with loose posts on less than a year old Autozone batteries that leaked acid fumes into clamp post area and they caused a poor contact no start issue.

Thanks, hopefully it's just the battery that's acting up, will continue tomorrow.

I agree, it sounds like a loose/dirty battery connection.

My $.02

Try cranking over with none of the injectors connected.

Another vote for loose/dirty battery connection. Much experience with the issue myself.

Had to go out of town for work this week so will follow up this end of the week.

Well got back and you guys were spot on. Just needed to tighten down the battery connectors and the jeep is literally up and running. thanks for all the help!

May be a short in your wiring. Also if you have a battery in another vehicle that is the same and you know it's good I'd try that as well