Junkyard engine pulling?

OK... So I'm going to try and hit the local 1/2 off sale at the local junkyard, and figured I'd try and get a engine to rebuild (currently 255k on mine!). BUT, I've got plans with the kids for later that day, and the wife would highly prefer I attended instead of assing around at the yard.

SO.... How long will it take to pull an engine. I've already got the E12/E14 wrench and a host of other tools (even cordless!). I'd like to just get the hell in and out. No dicking around.

What's the fastest way to accomplish this short of an oxy acetylene torch and a forklift?

-P

What I do in my garage is electrical if any left. Take motor mount nuts off. Drop front driveshaft. All shift linkages. Chock wheels and drop back drive shaft. Drop t-case. Support trans and drop crossmember. Remove trans mount. Get ready to pick motor up. Do all cables under hood. Take the kick down cable out of the bracket and set it aside. Pull rad and tie up trans cooler lines to motor. Pull starter. Support motor and pull mount bolts. Drop trans support and pick it out. Then is you want just a motor separate outside on ground. I've seen it take way too long to separate motor and trans in the thing.


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Man, if it's out in the dirt it can be a lot more difficult. The junk yard I worked at didnt do you pull it. They would take the car to the slab and part them out there, in fact every junk yard I know did it this way (but I didn't deal with the two u-pull yards.)
Believe me if there was a short cut they would have used it. But the weight of the car and motor on the dirt and maneuverability of the hoist would concern me.

I think you'd be in at least 4-5 hours if it went well.

Exhaust bolts are the next PITA that always slows a job down. If it's a 4.0 I'd cut the fuel line and unbolt the intake and exhaust, but that might take too long. Honestly I wouldn't waste time with exhaust, bring a tool to cut it quick.
Best advice is like blakews2217 said pull the motor and transmission the same time.
You can cut the rad and cooling hoses .
Pull the radiator and header panel.
Unbolt the ac lines intact and plunk it off the where the battery goes.

To really save time you can butcher the wiring harness, I wouldn't unless necessary but you lose a lot of time fiddling with the clips.

I'm just wondering if you're saving enough to make this worth it.



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The pick-n-pull yard near me has tall Dolly's with chain hoists that roll around the yard. They are simple but you have to ask to use one. Also. Don't forget the power steering. If the air box is already out the pump will rest nicely there. If you do cut the ac line make shire it's empty. I didn't last time and was covered in oil from the compressor and stunk like r134a. I was lucky there was me derbies or liquid refrigerant. Is just cut the exhaust in 2 spots. At the header just after the flange and once after the cross member. If you can bring a cordless grinder with cutoff wheel. And a few battery's. Or a cordless sawzall. I can pull a motor ( again in my garage) in 3 hours if I haul ass. Also about the electrical clips. There's a main loom connection you can undo by the heater hoses agenst the firewall and valve cover. You could cut the heater core hoses if you don't want to deal with them.


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Throws said:

What's the fastest way to accomplish this short of an oxy acetylene torch and a forklift?

-P

Click to expand...

Take a lot of friends.

I pulled an engine by myself, in the rain. I spent a day to be denied by the upper bell housing bolts, brought it home the next morning. Next time around, I had three other guys help me. It was on the ground in less than two hours. Both times I separated the transmission on the ground. Both times I asked what had to come off the assembly and left some accessories attached because they were included.

The U-Pulls around here pull the battery, drain the fluids, AC systems, and cut off the CATs before setting the car in the public access area.