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Joshman3280
August 25th, 2016, 08:11
Hey everyone! I have a 92 xj with some serious rust issues, I am trying to find a possible rust converter or way to treat it. I have been looking at the Eastwood rust converter. Any thoughts are appreciated. It to treat rear quarter panels.

VAhasnoWAVES
August 25th, 2016, 10:16
best way to treat rust is to completely remove it.

frijolee
August 30th, 2016, 18:27
If it's not too bad you can do POR15 with embedded fiberglass (they call it power mesh but as far as I can tell it's just chop strand mat).

1) Degrease
2) Metal Prep (POR15's rust converter)
3) POR15
4) Embed glass while wet and paint over
5) Topcoat if exposed to UV

Boostwerks.com
September 1st, 2016, 16:28
best way to treat rust is to completely remove it.

Ideally yes. However, if it isn't too far gone the rust converter works great if done properly. I've used it several times with great results. I'd recommend the brush on stuff since you really need to saturate the rust in order for it to neutralize all of it. You'll wait several days for it to do it's thing, and then top coat with a good primer/paint otherwise it will start rusting again.

I LOVE Eastwood's inner frame rail coating. The extension nozzle makes it easy. It is something every XJ that wants to live should receive. It is expensive, but well worth it.

Mighty.Mighty_XJ
November 9th, 2016, 11:46
What about Chassis Saver from MonstaLiner? Supposed to be good stuf

Ecomike
April 2nd, 2017, 19:06
I have had extremely good results with this Loctite rust neutralizer product.

http://www.truevalue.com//catalog/product.jsp?productId=5679&parentCategoryId=13&categoryId=196&subCategoryId=1712&type=product&cid=gooshop&source=google_pla&9gtype=%7Bifsearch:search%7D%7Bifcontent:content%7 D&9gkw=%7Bkeyword%7D&9gad=%7Bcreative%7D.1&9gpla=%7Bplacement%7D&ctcampaign=4680&ctkwd=%7Bproduct_id%7D&ctmatch=&ctcreative=%7BCreative%7D&ctplacement=196535-43411605579

cherokeefan_1
April 3rd, 2017, 19:37
Muriatic acid works too, so does phospheric acid. I use it on boat water exhaust parts. That's basically all the rust converter stuff is but rebadged and the price is tripled. Other than that I'd sand/media blast and remove it. Anything less and it WILL come back.

Ecomike
April 3rd, 2017, 20:22
Muriatic acid works too, so does phospheric acid. I use it on boat water exhaust parts. That's basically all the rust converter stuff is but rebadged and the price is tripled. Other than that I'd sand/media blast and remove it. Anything less and it WILL come back.

Nope, sorry, but the Loctite product I linked is a $300/gallon catalyzed organic polymer coating, actually a monomer that is catalyzed by exposure to oxidized iron, aka RUST, and converts the rust to a stable organic polymer primer.

Muriatic acid (aka Hydrochloric acid) just dissolves rust, while Phosphoric acid will actually form a bit of an iron phosphate coating-primer. Both need to be thoroughly rinsed off after use, to stop the acid from eating the steel.

The Loctite coating is not rinsed off, it can top coated to extend its life with a UV resistant top coat. But the surface does need to be oil and grease and loose dirt free before you brush on the Loctite coating.

cherokeefan_1
April 4th, 2017, 14:59
I was more referring to the Eastwood's and rust-mort type products that there are. If you don't remove rust it will come back no matter how much you spend on any type of product. Rust forms in many layers and getting that loctite product to be absorbed by all layers is impossible. Yes you can use it and the top layer will be converted but there is still rust underneath that will spread unless it's removed.

Ecomike
April 4th, 2017, 15:50
I was more referring to the Eastwood's and rust-mort type products that there are. If you don't remove rust it will come back no matter how much you spend on any type of product. Rust forms in many layers and getting that loctite product to be absorbed by all layers is impossible. Yes you can use it and the top layer will be converted but there is still rust underneath that will spread unless it's removed.

I first used it on a badly rusted area of a 1978 Dodge station wagon, and caulked over/into to seal the treated rust holes and then painted over it, and had no rust return for the last 12 years I had the SW. Put over 400,000 miles on that beast. No paint job lasts forever either but the rust stop outlasted the rig.

Skwerly
April 4th, 2017, 15:58
http://www.rockler.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/RIDGID-R3002-Reciprocating-Saw.jpg

cherokeefan_1
April 5th, 2017, 08:29
That loctite product leaves a latex coating and is $8 for 8oz. Not $300 a gallon. There is 128 oz to a gallon so somehow your math is wrong

cherokeefan_1
April 5th, 2017, 08:31
What I've done for customers that don't want to spend cash to cut out rust is fiberglass over it. Like way over it into fresh metal. I still remove most of the rust though.

Boostwerks.com
April 9th, 2017, 13:28
Hopefully you're neutralizing the oxide before laying down fiberglass.

Ecomike
April 9th, 2017, 16:59
This is the product, brand I originally used back in the 1980s.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81849-Treatment-10-25-Aerosol/dp/B000BKC25K

They look and act the same.

Ecomike
April 9th, 2017, 18:09
Doing some digging for SDS sheets and ingredients. This one has formic acid in it!!!! Very interesting. I may try some.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPI0R8/ref=psdc_15718511_t1_B000BKC25K

One I have not tried yet that has high ratings is made by a well know industrial coating manufacturer, Valspar and it has Tannin (Tannic acid) in it. Both have a latex monomer that polymerizes as the rust is turned into what one calls magnetite in some info I located. The third one has barium sulfate, a common industrial marine coating additive. The rest of the secret sauce was not listed on the SDS sheets :(

Iron is a Fentons agent catalyst and a great catalyst for reactions and they seem to be using to polymerize the latex while secret sauce reacts and converts the rust to a stable oxide.

One note: Heavy pitted, loose rust needs to cleaned down and removed as well as possible before use. The Plastikote product seems to claim it was made for automotive use.

This is the product, brand I originally used back in the 1980s.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81849-Treatment-10-25-Aerosol/dp/B000BKC25K

They look and act the same.

Kittrell
April 9th, 2017, 18:47
Here is a before and after with Loctite.

Here is what I started with on the passenger side.

http://photodonn.novarata.net/_data/i/upload/2017/04/02/20170402130557-efb7659c-xl.jpg

After the rust neutralizer that EcoMike recommended (Loctite).

http://photodonn.novarata.net/_data/i/upload/2017/04/08/20170408132648-3550f84c-xl.jpg

Mid paint, I had some exact match Duplicolor.

http://photodonn.novarata.net/_data/i/upload/2017/04/08/20170408132653-2ff06ea8-xl.jpg

And done, there was no rust under the sound mat (I checked), so I left it.

http://photodonn.novarata.net/_data/i/upload/2017/04/08/20170408132657-a61923f8-xl.jpg

s14unimog
May 10th, 2017, 14:18
My $0.02; I love using this Corroseal stuff.

http://www.corroseal.com/

Ecomike
May 10th, 2017, 14:27
Thanks, that sounds like the same formula, or almost the same.

Nice photos Kittrell, thanks for sharing.

My $0.02; I love using this Corroseal stuff.

http://www.corroseal.com/

kc1ble
May 10th, 2017, 16:42
I have had good luck with POR 15, gonna tackle some spots on my XJ with it soon.

Ecomike
May 14th, 2017, 19:06
I have had good luck with POR 15, gonna tackle some spots on my XJ with it soon.


I think I used that version once with good results too.