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Cutting harness and adding wire length?

1-tonxj

NAXJA Member
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Colorado
I can't. see why it would be bad, but I may be wrong..
And that would be I want to cut a few of the Jun tion box harness plug wires and but splice some added length in there so it can be mounted where I want it...I figure keep gauge size correct and color code and heat shrink the connections and should be fine , but that's how it seems I could be wrong. I want to get this thing mounted in it's new home out of the way .
 
If you can solder it thats probably better butt connectors tend to get bulky if you're using alot also if they're data wires it's better to solder as butt connectors can add resistance which can (though unlikely) cause issues better safe than sorry I say.
 
Soldering is the best way.
When I delete connector's(I love deleting connector's on old vehicles) or add length's of wire, strip both ends and dip them in flux then wrap flux core .020 solder around the exposed wire.
Touch it w/ a soldering iron, dip them in flux again, lay them on top of each other and touch them w/ the iron again.
Clean the connection to get the flux off and heat shrink it.
If you can't touch the two together, tin them as mentioned and then use a butt splice to join them, using the proper crimping tool of course.
Hope it helps.
 
Soldering is the best way.
When I delete connector's(I love deleting connector's on old vehicles) or add length's of wire, strip both ends and dip them in flux then wrap flux core .020 solder around the exposed wire.
Touch it w/ a soldering iron, dip them in flux again, lay them on top of each other and touch them w/ the iron again.
Clean the connection to get the flux off and heat shrink it.
If you can't touch the two together, tin them as mentioned and then use a butt splice to join them, using the proper crimping tool of course.
Hope it helps.

The soldering sounds like the best due to the amount of wires on those harness plugs .I have a massive 12 ton crimper but it's useless for tight areas ...lol...it will be getting some use for the battery relocation to where the back seats were...lol...you can crimp industrial size cable with it so it will work sweet for big gauge battery and winch cable wiring .
 
Yeah, if you can't access the ends to solder them together, tin them before you insert the ends into a butt splice, then crimp.
Heat shrink that fits over the butt splice is a good idea, sometimes I even cut the plastic off the butt splice terminal and then heat shrink that if access/space is a problem.
This works great when deleting o2 sensor plugs, you know if your hot rodding it.
 
Yeah, if you can't access the ends to solder them together, tin them before you insert the ends into a butt splice, then crimp.
Heat shrink that fits over the butt splice is a good idea, sometimes I even cut the plastic off the butt splice terminal and then heat shrink that if access/space is a problem.
This works great when deleting o2 sensor plugs, you know if your hot rodding it.

No rodding it ...I do need to figure out a better exhaust this one with nothing but a custom muffler is too loud can't hear a spotter even at idle ...lol...it sounds good until you need to hear .
 
I hate soldering. It's slow, and it's too easy to destroy wiring. And I suck at it. Most manufacturers now recommend using the butt connectors with heat shrink on them. If you stagger where you splice all your wires, you can do it without putting too much extra bulk on the harness.
 
I hate soldering. It's slow, and it's too easy to destroy wiring. And I suck at it. Most manufacturers now recommend using the butt connectors with heat shrink on them. If you stagger where you splice all your wires, you can do it without putting too much extra bulk on the harness.

What manufacturers recommend butt connectors?

All my auto electronics books say solder including MECP cert books

Don't forget proper soldering prevents the joint from corroding. heat shrink butt connectors certainly help but solder and tape/heatshrink is much more certain
 
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Get butt conectors without the plastic and buy heat shrink in bulk. I find it easier to get a good crimp that way. Dont forget to slide the shink on Before you crimp both ends.
 
What manufacturers recommend butt connectors?

All my auto electronics books say solder including MECP cert books

Don't forget proper soldering prevents the joint from corroding. heat shrink butt connectors certainly help but solder and tape/heatshrink is much more certain

Chevy and Ford both do. Every time you order connectors from them they give you a bunch. There are others as well.
 
Again butt connectors can add resistance. I've seen first hand steeering wheel control wires and data wires cease to function correctly because they were butt connected.

And easier and faster is just down to practice i can do them in the same time frame
 
With big gauge cable it is said that the best connection is had by crimp connection not soldering ...but that is a bit different . the last time I did the multi function light swit h on the jeep I used butt connectors they took up a fair bit of space ....However the idea of using one a without the insulator and shrink wrapping it would slim them down a ton. I do however need to pick up a hi heat soldering gun to repair the bad 2879 transistor in my davemade so I can put that in my jeep with the cb , so May as well practice soldering on the harness wires .
 
Personally if a heavy gauge cable needs repair I just replace the whole thing =D

That is a mighty fine idea Mr.Tesla ...but you need to attach the cables to power source and item to be powered ...solder or crimp...that is what I was referring to .
 
That is a mighty fine idea Mr.Tesla ...but you need to attach the cables to power source and item to be powered ...solder or crimp...that is what I was referring to .



Well in THATTT case... Besides we were talking about lengthening wires here


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Being an electrical engineer and designing stuff for military, space, and medical, I use connectors that are heat shrink with a band of solder in the middle and a band of hot melt glue around each end. You take the wires and strip them back. You bend the wires and hook them together, then slide the splice over the wires. You heat the splice with a heat gun until the splice shrinks, the seal on each end melts, and the solder melts, fusing the wires together. You end up with a waterproof/bulletproof/strain relieved splice.

I am still using a ton I got 25 years ago.

http://www.digikey.com/product-deta...ense-and-marine/371176-000/A101221-ND/2046066
 
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