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MJ will not move after engine swap.

T

tylergrant2011

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Luverne
So I finished my engine swap on my 87 mj 4.0 a/t today. Put all the hoses back on the radiator went to start it. It ran fine, but when I put it in gear nothing happened. Won't move in any gear. Is there anything electrical or mechanical I could have forgot. I'm a bit puzzled. Transmission worked fine before the swap. Also I only pulled the engine and left the tranny in.
 
Is the torque converter bolted up right and back in the right position?
Maybe it leaked enough fluid to do this. Or the shifter cable broke if it acts like it is always in park.

Just some random thoughts you've probably already checked .


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I'd be making sure all the torque convertor bolts were still in it, making sure the shifter cable was hooked up properly and actually shifting, and then i'd make sure you seated the torque convertor into the transmission all the way before you bolted it up (even if you didn't pull it out it could've jarred itself loose from you wrenching on the jeep. It has 3 different clicks before it's fully seated.
 
Green Mesa XJ said:
Is the torque converter bolted up right and back in the right position?
Maybe it leaked enough fluid to do this. Or the shifter cable broke if it acts like it is always in park.

Just some random thoughts you've probably already checked .

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I have check the fluid and the shifter cable the only thing I have yet to look at is the torque converter. Does anybody know how much clearance there is supposed to be between the flex plate on the torque converter. And also to look at the torque converter would it be easier to unbolt the motor or unbolt the transmission and slide it back
 
tylergrant2011 said:
I have check the fluid and the shifter cable the only thing I have yet to look at is the torque converter. Does anybody know how much clearance there is supposed to be between the flex plate on the torque converter. And also to look at the torque converter would it be easier to unbolt the motor or unbolt the transmission and slide it back
Click to expand...

Unbolt neither, pull the inspection plate.
 
My major concern is that if the torque converter was not seated, and was correctly bolted to the flex plate, you may have done damage to the transmission.

In that case, yes. Unbolt the TC from the flex plate, unbolt the tranny and pull it back a few inches so you can do a visual as you rotate the torque converter and see if it will seat. Then move the tranny with seated TC up to the motor and bolt both the tranny and TC, in that order.
 
Is the transfer case in Neutral. If so, it will NOT move in ANY gear (I know DaKing, said so...just re-checking) Put the transfer case in 2wd.

The torque converter, if seated deep enough, should be about 1.5" inside the bell housing at the nose of the converter. The flexplate bolt "pads" stand the flexplate about 1/2" away from the torque converter.

If you had to pull the engine and tranny together with the mounting bolts, and not just slide it onto the locating dowels, it's likely seated correctly, There's not a lot of room for error in there. =BAD =GOOD

So, if you had to wrench on the tranny mounting bolts you'd be better off re-doing it. I (for a couple different reasons) had to stab my first tranny/converter/flexplate 3 times to get it right. (I fubbed up)

Also, if the torque converter is in deep enough you should not be able to stick your hand in behind the starter (with the starter out).

If you were to un-bolt the flexplate, you might be able to coax the torque converter back into place IF it's actually out of place. Lying under the Jeep with some good gloves on you just might be able to finesse it.

The torque converter will always turn with the engine running as it is bolted to the crankshaft. So looking to see if the flexplate/torque converter is turning will show you nothing.

To make dam sure the whole group is working you might want to unbolt the whole tranny again and re-do it...adding a new front seal for $8.99.

Just to be sure, flexplate bolted to crank, torque converter bolted to flexplate.
 
ParadiseXJ said:
Is the transfer case in Neutral. If so, it will NOT move in ANY gear (I know DaKing, said so...just re-checking) Put the transfer case in 2wd.

The torque converter, if seated deep enough, should be about 1.5" inside the bell housing at the nose of the converter. The flexplate bolt "pads" stand the flexplate about 1/2" away from the torque converter.

If you had to pull the engine and tranny together with the mounting bolts, and not just slide it onto the locating dowels, it's likely seated correctly, There's not a lot of room for error in there. =BAD =GOOD

So, if you had to wrench on the tranny mounting bolts you'd be better off re-doing it. I (for a couple different reasons) had to stab my first tranny/converter/flexplate 3 times to get it right. (I fubbed up)

Also, if the torque converter is in deep enough you should not be able to stick your hand in behind the starter (with the starter out).

If you were to un-bolt the flexplate, you might be able to coax the torque converter back into place IF it's actually out of place. Lying under the Jeep with some good gloves on you just might be able to finesse it.

The torque converter will always turn with the engine running as it is bolted to the crankshaft. So looking to see if the flexplate/torque converter is turning will show you nothing.

To make dam sure the whole group is working you might want to unbolt the whole tranny again and re-do it...adding a new front seal for $8.99.

Just to be sure, flexplate bolted to crank, torque converter bolted to flexplate.
Click to expand...


Learned something new. I didn't know 2wd even had a t case.. how would I even check if it's in neutral
 
xcm said:
2wd's DO NOT have a t/case. People tend to assume 4.0 4x4...
Click to expand...

My 2 wheel drive has a t-case.

IMG_20160724_191204472_zpsjkkw1dch.jpg



On a more serious note, I'm in agreement that it sounds like the torque converter was not seated all the way.

Sadly, this tends to destroy the pump on the aw4.... something I recently learned all about, the hard way.
 
tylergrant2011 said:
What type of atf is recommended?
Click to expand...

Dexron III / Mercon. Also known as "Dex/Merc".

People will tell you that 'ATF', 'ATF+4', or 'Dexron V' are compatible and to run them, do not listen, they are wrong. They have information from shops or dealers who no longer stock Dexron III and are trying to sell you the 'next nearest thing'. This does include many Jeep dealers (Chrysler vehicles use ATF and not Dexron, so they are trying to phase it out).

You can get it at any auto parts store. Most staff there don't actually know what they have, start reading bottles.
 
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