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Centering track bar and straightening steering wheel

GamblySmurf

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Denver, CO
I need to dial in my track bar. How can I tell when I have the axle centered? Do I need to have the Jeep off the ground to do it, or can it be done in the driveway without jacks?

Also how do I get adjust the steering wheel to get it straight?
 
Needs to be done with the weight on the suspension

Loosen the tie rod (goes from the steering arm/box to the passengers side of the drag link), and turn it in or out to center the steering wheel, then lock it back down.
 
And if you have trouble getting the bolt to line back up, have a friend turn the steering wheel and it will move the front end around
 
Pick any location that is present in both sides of the vechile and measure to the back of the inner c or something. Make measurements the same both ways.
 
Eyeballs. Seriously, it's not that critical. The tolerances on my rig are so tight at full compression that full bump is the only point where the axle is truly centered. At ride height it's probably 3/4" off. Doesn't hurt a thing.

You just don't want things running into each other as the suspension cycles. On most vehicles centered at ride height is best, but not always.
 
Eyeballs. Seriously, it's not that critical. The tolerances on my rig are so tight at full compression that full bump is the only point where the axle is truly centered. At ride height it's probably 3/4" off. Doesn't hurt a thing.

You just don't want things running into each other as the suspension cycles. On most vehicles centered at ride height is best, but not always.

There's that too. I only moved mine because my springs were rubbing the frame side track bar mount.
 
Are there any particular points you like to measure from to find the center of the Jeep?
The method I use came from an old NAXJA posting and has worked for me for over a decade.
To center the axle, find flat piece of pavement (driveway or parking lot) and unbolt the track bar. Then roll the Jeep back and forth several times to let the axle find its natural center point.
Adjust the track bar to fit and bolt it up.
The drag link will need adjustment afterwards to center the steering wheel.
Check the toe in while you are at it, do it before centering the steering wheel.
Cycle the front suspension to check for any new interference spots.
 
I just do it this way, super easy;

-Jeep on level surface, all 4 wheels on ground.

-Steering as straight ahead and toe as close to spec as possible. Leave steering unlocked.(If steering is locked, the adjusting of the track bar back and forth will slightly turn front wheels)

-Make sure that front tires have approximately the same amount of air.

-Using a straight 2x4 (or any sufficiently long, straight edge that will go from ground to just above hood height), put 2x4 against front wheel, 2x4 straight up and down, centered on wheel, with the 2x4's one end on ground, making sure that 2x4 is against both the lower and upper sidewall.

-Take a tape measure and measure from 2x4 to fender/hood gap on left and right sides of Jeep. Adjust track bar until both sides have same measurement. Roll Jeep back and forth to settle, measure again, adjust as necessary, tighten up everything when finished.

-Fine tune toe and center steering using adjustments on drag link and tie rod.
 
Wow. Some complicated stuff there. I usually just measure inside of the top of the tire to outside of framerail on each side. Adjust so they are the same. As said earlier, its not that critical with straight axles.
 
Wow. Some complicated stuff there. I usually just measure inside of the top of the tire to outside of framerail on each side. Adjust so they are the same. As said earlier, its not that critical with straight axles.
this is how i did it.

used a ratchet strap between teh passenger frame and the driver inner C and a friend leaning on the fender to hold it in place while i adjusted the track bar and set it. its about 1/2in ish off but it tracks fine and doesnt behave awkwardly.
 
I just turned the wheel back and forth with the bar disconnected and got out to measure the distance from the flares to the outside edge of the tires.

If you have long arms, you may need to bias it slightly toward the driver's side so that the passenger arm can clear the factory upper mount (even though they are typically cut, it's still some tight clearance).
 
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