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Carrier was really stuck in D44!

M

md21722

NAXJA Forum User
Location
TN
I was pulling apart a D44 with stock gears to regear and the carrier was really stuck in there! I had a heck of a time getting the carrier out. The drivers side was coming up but the passenger side was not coming loose.

I have pulled carriers on the D30's before and am familiar with some of the methods such as roll a rag around the ring gear, using pry bars against both sides of the carrier, case spreaders, what have you.

What I finally did was massage the drivers side back into place by tightening the cap bolts a little at a time. With the drivers side still bolted down, I stacked some steel on both sides of the housing and spanned it and put puller jaws on the carrier to get the passenger side to come up a bit. Then I started loosing the caps and working the puller a little at a time so it would walk out evenly.

Just wondering if this happens often or if there was something I should have tried first.
 
Most pros use a case spreader on a D44. It is designed to be tight.
 
I build axles for a living and use the wrench/prybar method pictured, as does everyone at the shop. If, like in your case, the non ring gear side doesn't want to come out, hitting the face of the gear with a soft face deadblow, while holding the other side with the prybar/wrench will usually free it up.

IMG_20160502_071714780.jpg
 
Thanks. I guess I'll try refining my technique on the next one. I did try a wrench on the ring gear, but while trying to turn the pinion. I also whacked the gear with a 4lb soft faced dead blow a bunch of times. I spread the case .013 but it didn't help. I guess I could've gone out to .020 but I had my doubts.
 
I got a case spreader to do it right. Much easier going in and out.

Friend who does axles much more than I, said he wishes he had got 1 sooner.
 
Shouldn't need a case spreader...the only thing I use them on is the JK 44 housings as they are shimmed on the outside of the race, and the bearing cages extend past the race so it all needs to go in at once.

Often when the case comes out as described where it cocks to one side, it's actually because the preload is too loose and it allows it to bind up and jam itself in the housing. The trick is to make sure you are pulling it out as straight and even as possible.
 
Changing this up a bit, at the shop how do you pull the bearing off the pinion? Clamshell or other?
 
I like the clamshell but I don't have one. I use my H-frame press.
 
TRAILREADYXJ said:
We use a clamshell puller
Click to expand...

Are you using a custom plug on the pinions?

With no plug the clamshell can only get the pinion off short pinions like the D30. With the standard plug it becomes too high on the pinion. One about half the length seems about right.
 
old_man said:
I like the clamshell but I don't have one. I use my H-frame press.
Click to expand...

That works well, the clamshell tool is quite pricey if you don't use it constantly. The main advantage to the clamshell, aside from speed, is you can pull a bearing without any damage if it's a situation you'll be reinstalling it.
 
TRAILREADYXJ said:
That works well, the clamshell tool is quite pricey if you don't use it constantly. The main advantage to the clamshell, aside from speed, is you can pull a bearing without any damage if it's a situation you'll be reinstalling it.
Click to expand...

Yup, love that clamshell puller, and the case spreader, and I also use the wrench/prybar method to pull the carrier. Usually I don't have to pull the pinion bearing as I'm replacing gears anyway.
 
md21722 said:
Are you using a custom plug on the pinions?

With no plug the clamshell can only get the pinion off short pinions like the D30. With the standard plug it becomes too high on the pinion. One about half the length seems about right.
Click to expand...
Just saw this... The one we sell and use is long enough for long pinions, and a spacer is needed on short pinion 30s.
 
md21722 said:
Are you using a custom plug on the pinions?

With no plug the clamshell can only get the pinion off short pinions like the D30. With the standard plug it becomes too high on the pinion. One about half the length seems about right.
Click to expand...

A deep socket that just slides over the pinion threads works perfectly with the clamshell puller.
 
Just realized what you were referencing with the "plug"...the tool is designed to be used without it on the longer pinions, it has an end on it that spins like a c-clamp, so it won't damage the threads. I have never damaged a pinion, or seen one damaged, using this tool without anything on top of the pinion, and I usually pull bearings of at least two a day, not counting all the other guys in the shop.
 
Oh yeah, the plug I was referring to is that 5-6" piece that's used for carrier bearings. The tall blue housing that the screw threads into measures 10" on mine and the screw itself is 8" long. I thought all of these were made in the same factory in India regardless of its a Yukon, Nitro, or whatever, so I'm scratching my head how you can pull the pinion bearings off longer pinions without some short plug or spacer.



(BTW, I have a solution for this, using a different plug from something else, I'm just curious how others do it in case there's an easier way... or all the brands are not the same.)
 
Last edited:
Smacks forehead. I was able to remove the pinion bearing without the plug on a D44. It seems like I remember it not getting it all the way on the 8.25 though. When I get another one to take apart I'll try some of the ideas here.
 
md21722 said:
Oh yeah, the plug I was referring to is that 5-6" piece that's used for carrier bearings. The tall blue housing that the screw threads into measures 10" on mine and the screw itself is 8" long. I thought all of these were made in the same factory in India regardless of its a Yukon, Nitro, or whatever, so I'm scratching my head how you can pull the pinion bearings off longer pinions without some short plug or spacer.



(BTW, I have a solution for this, using a different plug from something else, I'm just curious how others do it in case there's an easier way... or all the brands are not the same.)
Click to expand...
My curiosity is piqued now, I'll try to remember and get a measurement off mine tomorrow, it does look slightly different.
As a separate note, I do have a small plug/spacer that came with mine to be able to pull them off short pinions.
 
I found reason that typically happens on the older D44's especially on the XJ's is that there is a bead of 25yr old sealer, that is just slightly into the bearing race and you have to shear it off (and its not that easy at times) in order to get the carrier to come out. Before you reassemble, remove that hard circular orange or black bead of sealer from just inside where the caps are.

When they press the tubes in originally they lubed and seal with that stuff and it gets pushed in, then I think as it dried, it expanded and at times made it in to the race area slightly. Sucks. And a spreader doesnt help it (if this is the cause) as its in to the bearing more than .010-.015, the max you should spread a D44.
 
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