low pinion D30 u bolt conversion

I'm installing a u bolt conversion on a low pinion Dana 30. I know on a high pinion 30 it's. As simple as removing to old nut & yoke, installing the new yoke, torque the nut to spec.
Is the low pinion any different?
What is involved?
Thanks in advance!

With the low pinion you have to keep in mind it has a crush sleeve so you don't want to over tighten it. I install them with an impact, and although it takes some feel, you can tell when it reaches the point the nut is tight without raising the preload.
Aside from that it's the same procedure. I would recommend replacing the seal while you're at it for good insurance against leaks. Be sure to grease the lip of the seal before installing the yoke, and locktight the nut as well.

TRAILREADYXJ said:

With the low pinion you have to keep in mind it has a crush sleeve so you don't want to over tighten it. I install them with an impact, and although it takes some feel, you can tell when it reaches the point the nut is tight without raising the preload.
Aside from that it's the same procedure. I would recommend replacing the seal while you're at it for good insurance against leaks. Be sure to grease the lip of the seal before installing the yoke, and locktight the nut as well.

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If I did this according to procedure & popped out the ring gear, installed a new crush sleeve/set the preload, then reinstalled the ring using the same bearings/shims/etc.. The pattern should remain the same?

I'm asking because I'm really not comfortable in my ability to get the preload back within spec without replacing the crush sleeve & if I can't the r&p will get trashed in a few miles.

Crush sleeves can be really hard to crush new if you don't have a good impact. If all you want is the yoke, I take a center punch and make a mark on the nut and the pinion. Count the threads showing. When you reassemble it you now can put it back exactly where it was (sometimes I go a hair tighter).

trippled said:

Crush sleeves can be really hard to crush new if you don't have a good impact. If all you want is the yoke, I take a center punch and make a mark on the nut and the pinion. Count the threads showing. When you reassemble it you now can put it back exactly where it was (sometimes I go a hair tighter).

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X2 use red thread lock and go a hair more.

I'll give it a shot,
If my R&P crap out I'll get the pleasure of doing a full set up again:rof:

if it does anything, it will just loosen up. what i did is use a 3/4 drive breaker bar and socket to tighten the nut with my jack handle for leverage. and a big pipe wrench on the yoke braced against the ground.
keep the tools with you, if it comes loose it will vibrate and start slinging oil. just tighten it back up. i have replaced 2 yokes and 1 seal doing it this way.
i also installed a used r and p and diff into a different housing (high pinion) and set it all by hand and it was tight enuff, and didnt blow up. it was all used bearings and shims, and it still lives. and i tightened all of that one with my 1/2 impact.

my preload was like this-- think of a wheel bearing. you dont want the wheel spinning for one or two turns. needs to be tighter. it needs to be about medium resistance to turning by hand.
as was said, mark the nut and pinion end and try and get the marks back when you re assemble.

you replaced the r and p? so you have the pinion depth set as you like for now? if you tighten and are say 30 ft pounds shy, it will just loosen up and sling oil first then vibrate.
then set your diff ring from side to side for pattern. once you get that, try and get the pinion tight where the sleeve starts to crush. then check your pattern again. you may have to try the pinion 4-5-6 times to get your pinion, and then same for teh pattern. dont be afraid of it. keep building it and checking till you get it right. best of luck

garr said:

If I did this according to procedure & popped out the ring gear, installed a new crush sleeve/set the preload, then reinstalled the ring using the same bearings/shims/etc.. The pattern should remain the same?

I'm asking because I'm really not comfortable in my ability to get the preload back within spec without replacing the crush sleeve & if I can't the r&p will get trashed in a few miles.

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Yes, the pattern/pinion depth and your backlash will remain the same since you aren't changing any shimming. Just be sure to check that you don't unseat the inner pinion bearing upon removal, sometimes this happens if you need to hammer it out. To do this simply make sure the oil slinger doesn't spin on the pinion once you remove it.

TRAILREADYXJ said:

Yes, the pattern/pinion depth and your backlash will remain the same since you aren't changing any shimming. Just be sure to check that you don't unseat the inner pinion bearing upon removal, sometimes this happens if you need to hammer it out. To do this simply make sure the oil slinger doesn't spin on the pinion once you remove it.

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just curious, will replacing damaged pinion bearings require a new setup? Or could someone just set the pinion preload to spec (7-8 years ago I set it
@ 15"lbs + an additional 7"lbs when spinning the carrier)and be gtg?

garr said:

just curious, will replacing damaged pinion bearings require a new setup? Or could someone just set the pinion preload to spec (7-8 years ago I set it
@ 15"lbs + an additional 7"lbs when spinning the carrier)and be gtg?

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It will not require new setup as long as you keep all the shimming the same. The amount of pinion preload with the carrier installed does not matter, you just want to measure the pinion preload with the carrier out. As far as carrier preload, you should have to install it with a deadblow, if the carrier just slides in, the preload is too loose or the bearings are worn. It is a good idea to recheck the backlash once assembled to make sure all is assembled properly, if that's off it will tell you something is wrong with the setup such as a bearing or race not seated properly.

TRAILREADYXJ said:

It will not require new setup as long as you keep all the shimming the same. The amount of pinion preload with the carrier installed does not matter, you just want to measure the pinion preload with the carrier out. As far as carrier preload, you should have to install it with a deadblow, if the carrier just slides in, the preload is too loose or the bearings are worn. It is a good idea to recheck the backlash once assembled to make sure all is assembled properly, if that's off it will tell you something is wrong with the setup such as a bearing or race not seated properly.

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You are correct, but the service manual I was using at the time said to check the Pinion preload the normal way you mention then again after the carrier is installed when it should add about 7in Lbs to the original preload Number.

The reason I'm talking about preload is with the pinion out replacing the crush sleeve I'll naturally inspect the bearings & if needed replace them.
Thanks again.

garr said:

The reason I'm talking about preload is with the pinion out replacing the crush sleeve I'll naturally inspect the bearings & if needed replace them.
Thanks again.

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No problem...I've done just a few of these in my line of work, haha. Just keep in mind if you reuse the old bearings you need to set it at the used bearing spec of 6-8 in lbs, vs 12-15.