89 classic dash clock issue.

Since I got my jeep years back it has had a low reading on the volt meter. If I run the AC or heater while the stereo is on it drops WAY low. Also if I lower the power windows it dims my head lights. I have replaced all the grounds will #4 welding cable as well as replaced my power wires. Now today I noticed when I got in after work that dash clock looked to be lit up (dim but lit up) I turned the key on and sure enough it got brighter and read the same time. The clock shouldn't be on when the ignition is off should it? I notice this a long time ago but assumed it was just me being able to see the number bars on the clock. Could this be my draw issue I am having with everything else?

I have never had or seen an 84-90 Cherokee that had a volt meter read right, but you can read the battery spot on the meter, before and while cranking and after the engine starts running. Only time to worry is if the volt meter reads less with the engine running, than with the engine off but power on (all loads off).

You other problem is a power wire to the ignition switch and the ignition switch being way undersized for one wire that feeds the wipers, door locks windows and radio and the AC blower switch and turn signals and I think emergency flashers that are one 14 gauge wire, that should be 10 gauge with a 30 amp circuit fuse. I by passed mine on two of my rigs already, the 84 and 87. I would bet your connector and ignition switch are already melted and damaged and need to be replaced before they die for good and leave you stranded. I went with 10 gauh=ge new wire and buss fuse, resetable, and a 30 amp toggle dash switch on mine, bt I need to remember to turn it on and off since it bypasses the ignition switch. If I had to do it over I would just by pass the AC dash blower wires and fuse and switch around the ignition switch. It is the load hog.

I am going to go out on a limb here and say you are talking about the infamous brown wire. It was melted before. I replaced it about 6 months ago. But didn't think to upsize or bypass. Would that cause the clock to stay on tho? How did you go about bypassing the ignition switch? I am very interested in this.

It varied from one jeep to the next as I got smarter. The ignition switch and wire and connector plastic can not handle peak loads and all the parts get damaged. The AC blower switch is the real power hog, It can pull and overload a 20 amp switch and fuse over time all by itself. I bypassed the ignition switch and used a 10 ga wire and installed a dedicated 30 amp resettable fuse breaker in the line going to a new 30 amp dash toggle switch that feeds power to the outlet wire from the ignition switch, but the next time I do it I will leave the existing design as is, and just run the new 30 amp circuit to the dash AC multispeed blower switch and by pass the ignition switch for powering the blower speed switch.

Yes it is the infamous brown wire.

Also check the resistor pack under the passenger side dash that is tied in with the blower speed switch. I could be bad or sitting in water if the drain is clogged.

I was having huge headaches with the fuse, brown wire, ignition switches, blower speed switch, and the resistor pack all!!!

See if this helps:

http://cruiser54.com/?p=211

http://cruiser54.com/?p=110