Need Correct Drum BrakeSpring Kit - 2000 XJ

Now that it is going to start getting warm out soon, I thought I would try, for a 10th time, to get rear working brakes.

When I bought the Jeep in 2010, the rear brakes worked fine. Parking brake even worked. It all continued to work until 2011 when I replaced shoes *and* the hardware kit.

Since then, the rear brakes only work for a bit and back completely off. If I am towing with the Jeep, I usually end up having to stop frequently and adjust the rear brakes back on in order to have all 4 working.

Everything is set up right. I have the FSM and it is all correct.

Finally, after many years and hardware kits, I have found the issue. It seems that EVERY SINGLE hardware kit I buy for my 9'' brakes does not have the correct spring. The spring that goes to the rear shoe is not correct and does not hold the little plate/tensioner/guide for the auto adjuster cable. This causes the arm for the auto adjuster cable to never be near the star wheel.

Since, each time I have done these, I buy a new auto adjuster ... it is too easy for the brake pressure to just allow the auto adjuster to back completely off.

Does anyone have any suggestions on a hardware kit that has the CORRECT springs? I may end up going to a dealer and buying their hardware kit.

If you had no luck elsewhere maybe you can find it at the junk yard?

I did a complete, and I mean complete, rear brake job on my '00 about a year ago. 9" brakes. I used Napa parts. Brake Shoe Maxi Hardware Kit Part # 2297, and the Self Adjuster Repair Kit Left Part # 80675 and Right part # 80676. No problems but then again I do not tow or even drive it much.

Yeti87 said:

If you had no luck elsewhere maybe you can find it at the junk yard?

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That thought has crossed my mind a few times. I may end up doing that.

Ralph77 said:

I did a complete, and I mean complete, rear brake job on my '00 about a year ago. 9" brakes. I used Napa parts. Brake Shoe Maxi Hardware Kit Part # 2297, and the Self Adjuster Repair Kit Left Part # 80675 and Right part # 80676. No problems but then again I do not tow or even drive it much.

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Even if I don't tow or drive it hard, the brakes will back off. I will check into that Hardware Kit part ... if it works great!

any of the multi state places around here have it. Are you sure the self adjusters are not on backwards? or the wrong sides?

If by "backing off" you mean simply failing to adjust, one thing that's very common in replacement parts is a cable guide that does not anchor properly in the shoe. (I'm talking about the little crescent shaped piece that the cable passes over). If the guide is not fully engaged in the hole in the shoe, then when you put the spring in over it, it will appear to be fine, the brakes will adjust and work fine, but the automatic adjuster will not operate. If you make extra sure that the pivot is seated properly in the hole, it will work, and it will stay working, but you must check it. The difference between right and not right is not immediately apparent.

Make sure before you put the drum on that the adjusting pawl is right up against the adjuster star wheel. If it's not, then check that cable guide.

Matthew Currie said:

If by "backing off" you mean simply failing to adjust, one thing that's very common in replacement parts is a cable guide that does not anchor properly in the shoe. (I'm talking about the little crescent shaped piece that the cable passes over). If the guide is not fully engaged in the hole in the shoe, then when you put the spring in over it, it will appear to be fine, the brakes will adjust and work fine, but the automatic adjuster will not operate. If you make extra sure that the pivot is seated properly in the hole, it will work, and it will stay working, but you must check it. The difference between right and not right is not immediately apparent.

Make sure before you put the drum on that the adjusting pawl is right up against the adjuster star wheel. If it's not, then check that cable guide.

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That's exactly the problem. The auto adjusters are correct. But the cable guide keeps rotating around and letting tension off of the auto adjuster cable. The cable guide rotates around and the pawl is no where near the star wheel. Because the auto adjusters are new and lubricated, it doesn't take long for the brakes to press against them and back off.

As far as I can tell, from looking at junkyard Jeeps and a friend who has working rear brakes on his Cherokee, the spring is supposed to hold it in place and stop it from rotating.

The current shoes I have are metal. I may end up welding the guide to the shoe so it keeps the cable in place.

no amount of spring pressure will cause the auto adjusters to unscrew. Just isn't going to happen.

I'm more inclined to think that the adjusters are on the wrong sides.

Pictures would be a huge help in helping you.

The cable guide is supposed to be free to rotate in the hole in the shoe without changing cable tension, but it must be firmly spigoted into that hole. If the tension on the cable is changing, I think it's because it's not staying properly in the hole. The return spring should hold it correctly once it's in properly, but it's not all that easy to see when it is. Compared to the originals, the new ones I've seen are pretty minimal, but they do work if you are careful. It may take a couple of tries to insure that they are really together right.

As Digger says, the adjusters should not be backing off no matter how free they are. If something is causing them actually to back off, something is wrong. When the brakes are tight enough, the adjuster pawl does not move enough to turn the adjuster. When they get loose, it pulls upward enough to advance the adjuster. At rest, the pawl serves as a ratchet to prevent backing off. If the self adjusters are working properly, then even if the adjuster somehow backed off, the increased shoe movement would cause the pawl to readjust it again. Make doubly sure when checking your brakes that the adjuster is rotating the right way to tighten. Even if you are a brake expert and never make mistakes, don't assume mistakes were not made by the people putting stuff in the box!

For brake work, by the way, I recommend large needle nose vise grips, much easier to use than traditional brake pliers. Grab the long portion of a spring instead of hooking into the hook. You can drop the hook right into the hole while holding the cable guide in position with the other hand.

The guide freely rotates. The tension on the cable pulls it around and it either releases tension. Please note - this has happened when I even had different shops do the drum brakes.

Auto adjusters aren't on backwards. They work fine and have L and R on the appropriate left and right side. When the cable has tension, the pawl is against the star wheel and pulls "up" to adjust them outward.

I have never had a problem with any other drum brakes except these. I have done drum brakes back in the day on TJs and never had this issue. From what I remember, they are exactly the same. But it's been quite a while since I have worked on a TJ. I used to prefer them because they were less problematic than disc brakes here in the northeast.

The part circled in black is free to rotate on mine. If someone can figure out a way to stop this from rotating, I'll be fine.

This is EXACTLY how mine always look when I pull the drum off. The guide rotates and there is not any tension on the auto adjuster cable. I just rotate it counter clockwise (in this pciture) and everything works as needed.






Remember -

When you push the pedal, the wheel cylinder pushes outward (orange arrow).

The shoes do "float", but they also pivot on the green circle

And push back inwards in the direction of the yellow arrow. Since my auto adjusters are adjusted with anti seize compound and are worked freely, the prawl needs to be firmly against the star wheel to prevent them from backing off.

The cable guide is always free to rotate. you don't want it solid.


Looks like they may be giving you cables for 10" brakes. I've run into a batch of mis-packaged kits before.

30 years as a professional tech and I have never seen a brake adjuster back itself off without outside influence.

I think I may try to buy a 9'' brake setup from the dealer. YES , it is definitely a 9'' brake setup.

Did the 10'' brake setup even exist outside of American Motors? Only time I have seen the 10'' brake setup was on a few different c-clip dana 35 YJs. Never seen the 10'' brakes on a Chrysler YJ/XJ

I know specifically the D44s use a 10". I think the 10" was an option with the D35s too.

not sure if the 8.25 had a 10" option.

I have a 9" cable being delivered... Ill measure and post the overall length for you.

Digger87xj said:

I have a 9" cable being delivered... Ill measure and post the overall length for you.

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Thanks! Appreciate it!

That adjuster lever looks all bent up or at least bent away from the adjuster vs toward it. Are they on the correct sides?

Miller, I've struggled with this exact issue just months ago. Since I owned the Jeep the adjuster bracket did not touch the adjuster star wheel. The drum brakes would lose their adjustment over time.

I purchased a new brake adjuster hardware kit from NAPA (I don't have the part number on hand, but it is their own line of parts) for the right rear side. They didn't have the left rear in stock. This fixed the issue, as soon as I installed the new adjuster hardware including adjuster wheel, adjuster bracket, cable pivot, and cable the adjuster bracket was tight to the star wheel.

For the left rear, I purchased a CENTRIC adjuster kit part #11962036. This kit did not fit the same as the NAPA and has the exact same gap you show in the photo between the adjuster bracket and the star adjuster.

so.. from the inside top of the ring to the inside of the hook on the spring is 9 5/8"