jarvitron
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Portland OR
OK
The Patient:
1993 Jeep Cherokee Country
4.0/AW4/231
History :
Had an exhaust leak, cracked header at down tube join and leak at back of head (missing nut/washer on last stud, missing bottom/rear manifold bolt).
Replaced exhaust manifold, replaced all hardware, torqued to spec/in pattern. All bolts seem tight at this time/no obvious exhuast leak noises. I _know_ it has some wiring problems, because occasionally the starter will not engage until I pop the hood and touch the wiring bundle near where the starter relay wires come out. As soon as I touch that though, the starter cranks over willingly and quickly.
Symptoms :
Was fine for a week after manifold replacement.
Last night on the way home it started to stutter/buck at mid-throttle.
Tried to die at idle unless I revved it.
Hard to start.
Will only start with liberal application of pedal, long cranking does nothing, waiting with key in run for a long time before cranking does nothing.
Got it home OK and it's obviously running rich (real stink of gas).
No obvious leaks around fuel rail, injectors, fuel pressure regulator.
No CEL, no codes other than 12 (I did disconnect the battery to reset the adaptive memory after replacing the exhaust).
I can drive it around but it's obviously down on power.
If I start it up in the driveway and rev it, the revs are VERY slow to come back down.
Current plans:
Spray some TB clean around the fuel rail/injectors/Intake manifold seating area to see if there's a vacuum leak.
Check ignition stuff, cap, rotor, plugs.
Test resistance of coolant temperature sensor.
Check readings on O2 sensor wiring.
Clean IAC, check TPS resistance.
Anything else I should check? That revs-are-slow-to-return-to-idle thing screams vacuum leak to me but IDK.
The Patient:
1993 Jeep Cherokee Country
4.0/AW4/231
History :
Had an exhaust leak, cracked header at down tube join and leak at back of head (missing nut/washer on last stud, missing bottom/rear manifold bolt).
Replaced exhaust manifold, replaced all hardware, torqued to spec/in pattern. All bolts seem tight at this time/no obvious exhuast leak noises. I _know_ it has some wiring problems, because occasionally the starter will not engage until I pop the hood and touch the wiring bundle near where the starter relay wires come out. As soon as I touch that though, the starter cranks over willingly and quickly.
Symptoms :
Was fine for a week after manifold replacement.
Last night on the way home it started to stutter/buck at mid-throttle.
Tried to die at idle unless I revved it.
Hard to start.
Will only start with liberal application of pedal, long cranking does nothing, waiting with key in run for a long time before cranking does nothing.
Got it home OK and it's obviously running rich (real stink of gas).
No obvious leaks around fuel rail, injectors, fuel pressure regulator.
No CEL, no codes other than 12 (I did disconnect the battery to reset the adaptive memory after replacing the exhaust).
I can drive it around but it's obviously down on power.
If I start it up in the driveway and rev it, the revs are VERY slow to come back down.
Current plans:
Spray some TB clean around the fuel rail/injectors/Intake manifold seating area to see if there's a vacuum leak.
Check ignition stuff, cap, rotor, plugs.
Test resistance of coolant temperature sensor.
Check readings on O2 sensor wiring.
Clean IAC, check TPS resistance.
Anything else I should check? That revs-are-slow-to-return-to-idle thing screams vacuum leak to me but IDK.