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Dana 30cad to Dana 30 hp

TheBlueXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Redmond Oregon
So is this a bolt in swap or what am I getting into here? Also iv been told my front driveline is not suppose to spin with Dana 30 cad any help on this subject thanks:)
 
Depends... can you clarify what you're doing?

A CAD Dana 30 is already High Pinion.

Are you swapping in a full non-CAD HP 30? Easy... unbolt yours, bolt in the newer one. Done.

Are you removing the CAD feature from yours, replacing the passenger side shaft with a 1 piece shaft? A bit more involved, but still doable.
 
Depends... can you clarify what you're doing?

A CAD Dana 30 is already High Pinion.

Are you swapping in a full non-CAD HP 30? Easy... unbolt yours, bolt in the newer one. Done.

Are you removing the CAD feature from yours, replacing the passenger side shaft with a 1 piece shaft? A bit more involved, but still doable.

Not so straight forward as knuckles will change. Cad should have a 2 piece knuckle so get the calipers from the non cad knuckle as well. AFAIK
 
Well my driveline on cad axle moves when I'm in 2wd
? So what does this mean?

most likely that your vac disco/CAD is stuck in the on position.
 
most likely that your vac disco/CAD is stuck in the on position.

not necessarily. the CAD only disconnects 1 of the axle shafts. the other axle is still turning and connected into the differential assembly, so it is putting torque against the ring gear which is in turn putting torque against the pinion gear/shaft. depending on wear and internal tolerances, the front shaft can an will spin as you drive, but probably still have some slippage in the system.
it's not turning under load, just freewheeling. you could probably hold it from turning with your hands at low-speed, but that's only to put it into perspective obviously.
there's no reason to worry about the front shaft spinning. and no, it doesnt have any measurable effect on your fuel economy as some have been led to believe.
 
You already have an HP30. You will get more wear and more resistance because both the right and left axle shafts are now spinning all the time. Don't have the metrics on how much it changes time to failure or MPG but it will change both some. You have to determine if it's worth it to you do that swap. Lots of folks will shim the CAD yoke to fix it in place, swap out with a newer passenger full length shaft or get a posi lock so you can manually engage the CAD if you want to maintain the CAD. Posi lock will cost about the same as a new axle.
 
not noticeably.

you'll probably want to refurbish the front driveshaft while you have it out.

it will be fine for a long time after that.

But if going through that effort already, why not just replace the two piece shaft with a single shaft and a new seal in the diff housing? Just as much work in my mind. And you get to inspect your gears while you have the diff cover off.
 
But if going through that effort already, why not just replace the two piece shaft with a single shaft and a new seal in the diff housing? Just as much work in my mind. And you get to inspect your gears while you have the diff cover off.

Having done it both ways, I prefer swapping the entire axle.

You have to dremel out the space for the new seal in the diff, and it will leak if you don't get it right. I had a leak after doing mine... lost a lot of gear oil in Moab a few months later.
 
But if going through that effort already, why not just replace the two piece shaft with a single shaft and a new seal in the diff housing? Just as much work in my mind. And you get to inspect your gears while you have the diff cover off.


with as available and cheap as HP axle housings are it doesn't make sense to go to the effort.
It will also very likely be a lower mileage axle, have knuckles that are in better shape and be significantly less rusty if you live in the north.
it's just easier to swap the whole thing.
even if you did change it to a solid shaft like you suggest I would still recommend refurbishing the front driveshaft, because it's going to spin full time afterwards.
 
Not so straight forward as knuckles will change. Cad should have a 2 piece knuckle so get the calipers from the non cad knuckle as well. AFAIK

knuckles changed with model year change, not CAD vs non-CAD. If you've got a Renix era Jeep, use a non-CAD from a Renix era XJ and it'll have the same knuckles and caliper mounts.
 
Or get a non cad axle and swap knuckles over which is what i did on my 89....i did run the old cad with the shift fork washered over to lock position for years without probs
 
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