preferences on how you would achieve a certain lift

There are multiple ways to achieve a same lift height setup.
Looking to up the current lift on mine now. 3" full coil aal Rc
How would you guys achieve an approximate 4.5 lift?

Full coil. Coil with poly spacer. Coil with ACOS.
Full leaves. Aal. Lower night springs with shackles. Shackle relocates. Blocks.
And what type of arms up front

Which setup preforms better in the woods. Not rock crawling.

I'm talking pure suspension. No drive line. no steering

Thanks chris.

Define "better".

Often the method of lifting depends on the budget available. Leaf spring lift blocks are the only proven FAIL. Coils + spacers will work, but does slightly limit the uptravel. If run short control arms, you will want control arm drop brackets.

4.5 I would go bds or pac springs, with a good 4-4.5 leaf pack, wait for the springs to settle then do a small shackle(better ride with a slightly long shackle) and maybe a poly spacer on front depending upon you bumper/winch options. Also spend a few bucks extra and make sure you get some good shocks. Then bumpstops!

As everyone else has stated there are a million ways to do this, and honestly the options are pretty unlimited.

I'm currently running 4.5" RE coils in the front with stock isolator, CAD brackets, and stock CA's.
3-1/2" OME rear springs, with Relocation brackets, and lift shackles, giving me perfect angle, for a 5" lift.

Front is sitting pretty much dead on 4.5" with a heavy front bumper, and winch, rear is sitting at 5" but when loaded, sits at 4.5".

Aside from ironing out a few kinks here and there, the ride is great. I DD mine 110 miles a day. Ive done some trails (woods, no rocks, just some logs) and it handles great as well.

Thank you. As of right now its a dd so streatabilyity is key. I know people say long arms are the bee's knees but I don't think they will be a easy install for me. I currently have rocksliders from detorsusa. They use the bodyside LCA and front leafspring bolt as anchors. A long arm set up would require cutting off one anchor.

So new rear 4.5 springs with a small shackle and relocate. Up front would be spacer and old springs or new 4.5. For arms I thought of using Cad's

If you like how your coils work, use acos. Otherwise use new coils. If not long arms go for cav brackets

Granted I'm still working on my set up - just installed the new coils, and have to do some adjustments to the caster angle - but before the new 4.5" coils on the front, I had a set of 2" lift springs with 2" spacers installed, and I installed the CAD brackets, and it made a huge difference in "street-ability". I live in NYC, and drive 110 miles round trip out to Long Island from Brooklyn, everyday, and the roads are notoriously crap-tastic. Before the CAD's and rear Relocation brackets, it was teeth chattering, after the CAD's and Rear relocation brackets, its way more "stock" feeling. Don't get me wrong, its not a Caddy, it won't feel like one, but its better none-the-less. So if budget is a factor, and street-ability is an issue, then you will absolutely need to go CAD, and relocation brackets. I've read a lot on Long Arms, and honestly don't feel like for a mainly DD vehicle, they are worth the investment, and some have said they are worse on the street (opinion of course).

As stated before, if you like your springs, save the cash, install spacers or ACOS, and get CAD brackets.

Personally, for me, ACOS was actually 3x more expensive than going straight to RE1310's (RE 4.5" lift coils), so I went for new springs overall.

I am on a budget. My 3.5" RE lift got coil spacers, CAD brackets, and extend shackles. 5.5" of lift, and it rides nice, and works well.

.

Euology101 said:

As everyone else has stated there are a million ways to do this, and honestly the options are pretty unlimited.

I'm currently running 4.5" RE coils in the front with stock isolator, CAD brackets, and stock CA's.
3-1/2" OME rear springs, with Relocation brackets, and lift shackles, giving me perfect angle, for a 5" lift.

Front is sitting pretty much dead on 4.5" with a heavy front bumper, and winch, rear is sitting at 5" but when loaded, sits at 4.5".

Aside from ironing out a few kinks here and there, the ride is great. I DD mine 110 miles a day. Ive done some trails (woods, no rocks, just some logs) and it handles great as well.

Click to expand...

Did you have to use a SYE or drop your transfer case, or both? I'm waffling between a 3" and 4.5" lift and I'm curious.

Tim_MN said:

I am on a budget. My 3.5" RE lift got coil spacers, CAD brackets, and extend shackles. 5.5" of lift, and it rides nice, and works well.

.

Click to expand...

My set up pretty much exactly and I like it a lot. Once I had the 3.5" on, I paid $20 for a set of used Teraflex coil spacers and $10 for a set of extended shackles from a Dodge Ram. I also have the control arm drop brackets.

Vernicious said:

Did you have to use a SYE or drop your transfer case, or both? I'm waffling between a 3" and 4.5" lift and I'm curious.

Click to expand...

I started with a H&T SYE and just went to a full case SYE last month. Never had any real issues with needing to drop my t-case. Still sitting on stock mounts.

If using an SYE, there is no need for a transfer case drop.

For a general wheeling rig: 4.5" coils, adjustable UCA & LCAs w/Drop brackets and braces, 3" rear leafs + 1.5" shackle lift.

If you think that you might be adding weight in the future (ie winch and winch bumper) or need carrying capacity for camping /overlanding gear, I would go 3" spings and ACOS up front.

Dragonlich1961 said:

Thank you. As of right now its a dd so streatabilyity is key. I know people say long arms are the bee's knees but I don't think they will be a easy install for me. I currently have rocksliders from detorsusa. They use the bodyside LCA and front leafspring bolt as anchors. A long arm set up would require cutting off one anchor.

So new rear 4.5 springs with a small shackle and relocate. Up front would be spacer and old springs or new 4.5. For arms I thought of using Cad's

Click to expand...

If you're not a serious rock crawler then long arms are money you could spend elsewhere. Adjustable shortarms and drop brackets work fine on- and off-road.