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So there are a ton of WJ swap methods people have used over the years. WJ rotors, explorer rotors, pre 90 bearings, 00+ bearings etc.
What formulas have you folks used and what is your feedback on them?
I'm working with Dallas over at StinkyFab to try and build an all-in-one WJ conversion kit that has all of the machined and fabricated parts, linkages and steering components, etc wrapped up in one nice easy package, with some clear instructions and a list of part numbers for the wear parts (bearings, rotors, etc) that you would purchase on your own.
The end game being that you could do your entire WJ swap in an afternoon, confidently, without having to figure out what combination of parts to use and then how to make them all fit together.
I am at ~3-4" of "lift"
My parts list (off the top of my head):
Ball joints out:
WJ knuckles from craigslist
WJ Akebono calipers from the same guy on craigslist, used as cores with "new" calipers from NAPA
JKS spacer ring
Spicer WJ ball joints
Extended brake lines (the chevy ones, but looking back I thought I had already done the YJ ones, which would be long enough for me)
Blaine's WJ pads
Centric WJ rotors redrilled (Blaine to me to buy them from Amazon)
Hubcentric wheel adapters/spacers
JK take off wheels and stock size JK Rubicon tires
Steering (where variables appear):
Ruffstuff GM crossover kit with:
offset TRE's
high-angle drag link TRE's
4 weld in inserts
I forget which pitman arm but I needed one that was flatter but not completely flat
Ruffstuff steering stabilizer flat
Track bar (here is where it always gets interesting):
Ruffstuff 7/8" heims and weld in threaded things(I am building a new track bar that will have a bushing on one end because this is a DD and I want it to absorb vibrations to help the heim last longer)
leftover tubing from the crossover kit
Ruffstuff outside the frame track bar mount (this should be welded to some plate steel so the "frame" won't crack like I have seen pictures of even with stiffeners or flex. Also this allows it to be a bolt on/off and not welded to the "frame")
Other variables for me:
Artec truss with Daystar bushing (once again DD, would have JJ if trail only)
Artec raised trackbar bracket
I also did the inner C brackets at the same time
Notes:
With the outside the frame trackbar mount, you CANNOT run a stock swaybar. I am putting the Currie unit on mine this weekend after I bend the arms to clear the mount
When attaching the frame side trackbar mount, ensure the mount is clear of the coils (I had to move it)
I also replaced the driver side upper control arm bushing.
I needed to extend my bumpstops to make ensure the trackbar and truss did not contact the oil pan.
The problem I see with a "kit" is that for the steering and trackbar, there are so many variables and options depending on specific setups. I acquired all of my parts over a period of time. When I was almost done gathering, my unit bearings went out and my brakes were almost done, so I knew it was time to finish getting everything together and get the job done. A buddy and I would have been able to complete the swap in a Friday night/long Saturday, but I was stupid and welded the threaded inserts for the track bar and drag link on the wrong pieces of tubing (the drag link TRE's are longer than the heims making the tubes different lengths to have the total length the same) and I had to order more tubing and another set of inserts.
I could see a small demand for a kit that included ball joints, knuckles, spacers machined and burned onto knuckles, calipers, Blaine's pads and rotors. The other stuff I see as being a wash as far as demand goes.
I got the wheels and tires before I did the swap, so I already had the adapters. Can WJ unit bearings be used? I never saw any information using unit bearings that are 5x5 and everything I saw with JKR wheels was with adapters. Also with the backspacing on the JKR wheels I like how they sit in the wheel wells with the spacers.
well yes and no. If you used WJ unit bearings, you'd need to ditch the JKS spacer, and the stub axle would not quite be long enough - you could get a nut on, but no cotter pin.
But if you got a WJ stub for a 760 joint, and bolted an entire WJ outer on unmodified, it would all just work.
Maybe this would be a good way to offer the kit, or at least as an option. Especially when getting JK takeoffs is so easy right now and those wheels clear everything just fine.
WJ ball joints
WJ knuckles
loaded centric akebono calipers and pads and caliper brackets
Brand new WJ caliper mount bolts with the factory locktite
IRO pre drilled rotors 5 on 4.5 and 5 on5
2001 TJ unit bearings Timken
I ran stock style currie steering (beefy) over the knuckle with a goferit insert on the driver side and no sway bar-cut off the mounts - drove amazing on the freeway at 80mph.
Maybe this would be a good way to offer the kit, or at least as an option. Especially when getting JK takeoffs is so easy right now and those wheels clear everything just fine.
WJ Lower BJs
99 Timken Unit bearings(I do have a pre 99 on one side and it requires 1/4" spacer for the caliper to align)
Ruffstuff DIY crossover steering w/ OTA Track bar
Offset TRE's The regular rod ends hit the coil buckets before full lock. Offset TRE fixed that. The steering stops on WJ knuckles are not adjustable like regular XJs I threw on some tack welds and lightly grinded until they touched just before full lock.
15x8 3.75" Aluminum rims w/ 1.5" Spacer. Clears Offset TRE by 1/4" Did not grind any rod end or part of the rims.
Redrilled Drilled and Slotted rotors
Ceramic Pads
Remaned Akebono Calipers
1/4" Spacer JKS
JY WJ Knuckles
FWIW Cal since you had mentioned the one time use caliper bolts. Mine are drilled 1/2-Fine Thread. And using red Loctite each time I have not had an issue yet. Although I mess with my front end often.
I also originally had DIY Y-Link one ton steering. I had to change to a TJ Pitman arm in order to realign the Drag Link and Track bar.
I am quite interested in where this goes. I swear sending someone to "go research the WJ swap because the information is already out there" should count as a violation of the Geneva Convention. After the first couple hours of reading I started cutting and pasting information into a couple of Word documents. They add up to twelve pages of information. I did not bother to go back and re-research the material I had already read. If someone wants that collected research PM me. I could post it up but I think it would just muddy up the thread. Not to mention take up a ton of space.
That said, I would suggest there should be two different kits depending on priorities. It is one thing if you want a strictly trail rig, another if you want a daily driver. There are also issues of trying to keep things within a certain wheel diameter and trying to use as many parts as one could get off the shelf when out in east Egypt. Of course I have no idea if the market will actually justify two different kits.
I have yet to get mine converted, but my goal is to run the WJ TREs, but flipped with welded in inserts because I can't find a good way to run the Chevy TREs and still clear the diff cover. Offset TREs or a special fitting on a bent tie rod just doesn't give me warm fuzzies. Murphy says those are the parts I will need to replace when something breaks and they will not be available locally.
I will also say that it would be nice to have someone besides JKS making spacers. The ones I got from them were 0.007" oversize on brand new Timken unit bearings. I sent those spacers back and made my own because I am not comfortable with that much slop on the unit bearing, particularly given how snug is the original fitment.
Just my two cents, from the perspective of someone who has this project moving its way up the project/priority list.
How would you feel about an alumiflex tierod that touched your diff cover and bent around it at full lock, but used off the shelf moog chevy 1 ton tre's?
I suspect the Chevy TREs are going to interfere with more wheels than are the WJ TREs.
I have heard rumors that some 15" steel wheels can even clear the Akebono calipers, depending on offset. If that is indeed true with the WJ TREs but false with the Chevy TREs that would definitely put me in the WJ TRE camp.
Which wheels will actually clear which combinations is one of the fuzzier aspects of this picture. I actually have two sets of WJ knuckles welded up with spacers, a reamer and a pair of Chevy TREs and GoFerIt inserts and junkyard WJ TREs on hand. My goal is to set up both systems and then start comparing which wheels will clear which. My expectation is that I will end up selling the Chevy prepped knuckles and keeping the WJ prepped knuckles.
How hard that tie rod contacts the diff cover would matter too. Are you suggesting it would flex around it? What about switching to an ARB diff cover? Again, rumor has it there is more clearance to be gained by going that route--I don't know from first-hand experience--read it on the web--must be true...Or are we already counting on that degree of clearance?
I suppose on measure of acceptability is going to be whether or not it is likely to bug The Bride when she drives the Jeep. If it is going to clunk with every turn or bump that isn't going to cut it.
How far away is the cottor pin hole from the tip of the stub shaft? Could redrill a new hole for the cottor pin so that when you do wj bearing and rotors, could have the safety of the cottor pin
How far away is the cottor pin hole from the tip of the stub shaft? Could redrill a new hole for the cottor pin so that when you do wj bearing and rotors, could have the safety of the cottor pin
I suspect the Chevy TREs are going to interfere with more wheels than are the WJ TREs.
I have heard rumors that some 15" steel wheels can even clear the Akebono calipers, depending on offset. If that is indeed true with the WJ TREs but false with the Chevy TREs that would definitely put me in the WJ TRE camp.
Which wheels will actually clear which combinations is one of the fuzzier aspects of this picture. I actually have two sets of WJ knuckles welded up with spacers, a reamer and a pair of Chevy TREs and GoFerIt inserts and junkyard WJ TREs on hand. My goal is to set up both systems and then start comparing which wheels will clear which. My expectation is that I will end up selling the Chevy prepped knuckles and keeping the WJ prepped knuckles.
How hard that tie rod contacts the diff cover would matter too. Are you suggesting it would flex around it? What about switching to an ARB diff cover? Again, rumor has it there is more clearance to be gained by going that route--I don't know from first-hand experience--read it on the web--must be true...Or are we already counting on that degree of clearance?
I suppose on measure of acceptability is going to be whether or not it is likely to bug The Bride when she drives the Jeep. If it is going to clunk with every turn or bump that isn't going to cut it.
How hard that tie rod contacts the diff cover would matter too. Are you suggesting it would flex around it? What about switching to an ARB diff cover? Again, rumor has it there is more clearance to be gained by going that route--I don't know from first-hand experience--read it on the web--must be true...Or are we already counting on that degree of clearance?
I suppose on measure of acceptability is going to be whether or not it is likely to bug The Bride when she drives the Jeep. If it is going to clunk with every turn or bump that isn't going to cut it.
The 7075 Aluminum tie rods are able to bend quite a bit, which is why I run them. The steering on my rig is super low, and I have a tendency to plow into large rocks with it at speed. My old diff cover had a tie rod shaped dent in it, and I have 2" of clearance. Tie rod is still straight. As for rubbing the cover, it'd likely only happen at full lock and it's doubtful you'd even notice it from the drivers seat. If anything you might feel a little extra spring back near full lock.
Wj ball joints
Knuckles
Wj rotors redrilled
Jks spacers
2001+ hubs
Loaded akebono calipers
Ruffstuff off set TREs( required to for my draglink to clear my jks trackbar bracket and to clear ruff stuff diff cover) also required me to run 1.25" wheel spacers since I have 15" aluminums. Without the offset TREs I didn't need the spacers
I reamed the knuckles to run everything on the top side
I used Sport Trac rotors with 01 unit bearings and wouldn't recommend it. Grinding down the OD of a unit bearing wasn't much fun and with the hubs spinning, I managed to goof and knock a lug into my grinder. It's worth noting I was a (very) new dad at the time and exhausted but seriously - easier / better to re drill a rotor.
I did it for the brakes only, and used a ZJ pitman arm to drop my drag link by the same 3/4" that the WJ knuckles did on that end. I recommend offering a full steering kit as well as just a ZJ pitman "stock steering" kit.
