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Install q's for terminator EFI in a 350 cherokee

J

jmg222

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At the suggestion of a forum member, I'm keeping all my q's on this topic in this thread ... apologies if my multiple threads caused any confusion.

I'm running an '88 jeep cherokee, dropped in a 350 small block chevy, with a carb. I'm now installing EFI, a holley terminator EFI.

I'm about halfway through the install, all the electrical is in, ran the fuel lines, now actually dropping the unit in.

question-- There was a vaccuum line going from the carb into a hole in the passenger valve cover. Is this part of the PCV? any reason *not* to reconnect this to the large vacuum on the terminator?

Also--- I'm running an edlebrock performer intake. In the back of the intake is a vaccum block, with one end going to the master cylinder the other end, I have no idea... goes into the firewall somewhere (see pic). the terminator can't clear it... I need about another inch, plan to use a spacer plate, any downside to using this (assuming every thing clears?)

21cv72h.jpg
 
I would reconnect the line from the VC, or if you find it really is not necessary, run a small filter on the VC port instead. And as for the lines from the manifold, guessing that the one that runs into the cab is for vent controls? A spacer should work fine. I do not think that there is a 90 deg. adapter that would be low profile enough to clear as it is. Unless, you maybe have another port for Vacuum, then you could just use a threaded insert.
 
Thanks. Got the efi unit on. Bending the stainless lines was a pain.
Used braided stainless on the return line to regulator, because I ran out of tube (too many mistakes ...), but just don't like how it looks ... so.... waiting for more tube, rebend the line, and then on to installing the throttle brackets/tranny kickdown brackets (which, now that I'm thinking about, have never done before, so should be interesting).

2hdskud.jpg
 
Johnnie Walker said:
I would reconnect the line from the VC, or if you find it really is not necessary, run a small filter on the VC port instead. And as for the lines from the manifold, guessing that the one that runs into the cab is for vent controls? A spacer should work fine. I do not think that there is a 90 deg. adapter that would be low profile enough to clear as it is. Unless, you maybe have another port for Vacuum, then you could just use a threaded insert.
Click to expand...

I have to disagree with Johnnie here. His recommendation is not incorrect for a traditional carb setup since they for the most part always run rich, but with EFI, your AFs will be wrong.

Assuming you mean the rubber line off the VC, then that is connected to the PCV valve. In a traditional carb setup, this would be connected to that empty spot in the back of the manifold you mention and the purpose of this is to pull a vacuum into the engine. If you dont do this then you will create positive pressure inside the motor and push a small amount of oil out. This will be especially true on off-camber situations. This can also sometimes cause fires since it can drip on your exhaust manifolds and burn down your rig.

Since you are installing the EFI unit, connect the PCV valve onto a port of the throttle body that is metered. This way, the EFI unit can compensate for the extra air coming in accordingly. Additionally, make sure you block what would would be an "extra" nipple now. Othewise, you will have a vacuum leak and the EFI will try to compensate at the O2 with a ton of extra fuel and will continually chase itself.
 
the_midwesterner said:
I have to disagree with Johnnie here. His recommendation is not incorrect for a traditional carb setup since they for the most part always run rich, but with EFI, your AFs will be wrong.

Assuming you mean the rubber line off the VC, then that is connected to the PCV valve. In a traditional carb setup, this would be connected to that empty spot in the back of the manifold you mention and the purpose of this is to pull a vacuum into the engine. If you dont do this then you will create positive pressure inside the motor and push a small amount of oil out. This will be especially true on off-camber situations. This can also sometimes cause fires since it can drip on your exhaust manifolds and burn down your rig.

Since you are installing the EFI unit, connect the PCV valve onto a port of the throttle body that is metered. This way, the EFI unit can compensate for the extra air coming in accordingly. Additionally, make sure you block what would would be an "extra" nipple now. Othewise, you will have a vacuum leak and the EFI will try to compensate at the O2 with a ton of extra fuel and will continually chase itself.
Click to expand...

ok-- so, forgive my ignorance -- there's a larger (3/8?) tube going from the valve cover that used to be connected to the carb, and a smaller hose also connected to vaccum on the carb. The EFI unit has barbs for both -- so If I understand, connect the larger line from the valve cover to the tbi, the small line to the tbi. There's a third port on the tbi, I'll leave that capped off with the plastic cap that came with the unit.
 
jmg222 said:
ok-- so, forgive my ignorance -- there's a larger (3/8?) tube going from the valve cover that used to be connected to the carb, and a smaller hose also connected to vaccum on the carb. The EFI unit has barbs for both -- so If I understand, connect the larger line from the valve cover to the tbi, the small line to the tbi. There's a third port on the tbi, I'll leave that capped off with the plastic cap that came with the unit.
Click to expand...

Yes. The larger hose from the valve cover is your PCV. Trace the smaller hose back. If it attaches to the distributor then that is the vacuum advance for the distributor and should also be connected to the TBI.

Just cap off the T at the manifold or replace it with a single 90 and that should go to your booster for your brakes.
 
the_midwesterner said:
Yes. The larger hose from the valve cover is your PCV. Trace the smaller hose back. If it attaches to the distributor then that is the vacuum advance for the distributor and should also be connected to the TBI.

Just cap off the T at the manifold or replace it with a single 90 and that should go to your booster for your brakes.
Click to expand...

ok, thanks, that's exactly what the smaller hose it.
Question, why do I need to cap off the t? will it get sufficient vacuum if I leave it connected to the intake?
 
slow but sure progress:

15n64b9.jpg

6zrfao.jpg
 
got the fuel pump in :

s2cgg0.jpg
 
dammit... I pressurized the pump, and virtually every connection is leaking. Ironically, only the push-on connectors for the braided steel line *isn't* leaking.
Took a look, and the @#$@#$23432'n cheap-o flaring tool I was using got warped after the first or second flare, and hasn't been putting a 37degree flare.

Learned my lesson and have bought a better flare tool specifically for .28 wall diameter 304 stainless steel. Oh well, my weekend would have been boring if I turned this on and it fired up right away.
 
BENZOMATIC said:
Flaring stainless line can be a PITA. It's lookin good bud.
Click to expand...

thanks.
I bought one of these :
http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Hyd...449783094&sr=8-1&keywords=hydrolic+flare+tool


(kit comes with 45 degree dies, the 37 degree set is extra, of course)

Expensive, but I tested it on the length from the pump to the filter, and it makes perfect flares with almost zero effort. Only issue is that its not something that can be done with the lines still on the truck-- everything has to come out :-(
 
here's a stupid question, where do I connect the vaccum off the fuel regulator? There's an extra vaccum port on the terminator EFI... any reason not to connect there, or does it have to be connected directly to manifold?
 
jmg222 said:
here's a stupid question, where do I connect the vaccum off the fuel regulator? There's an extra vaccum port on the terminator EFI... any reason not to connect there, or does it have to be connected directly to manifold?
Click to expand...

Depends on if that port is manifold or ported. What does your book say about that port? If it is manifold, then you can use it.
 
jmg222 said:
here's a stupid question, where do I connect the vaccum off the fuel regulator? There's an extra vaccum port on the terminator EFI... any reason not to connect there, or does it have to be connected directly to manifold?
Click to expand...

It just needs to be post throttle body so it sees vacuum.
 
DieselSJ said:
Depends on if that port is manifold or ported. What does your book say about that port? If it is manifold, then you can use it.
Click to expand...

book doesn't say anything about it, and the instructions for the regulator doesn't even mention connecting it to vaccum---
 
Fuel psi reg. needs to be manifold referenced. The port on the throttle body may be full manifold vacuum or ported.

Hook a vacuum gauge to the port on the TB, if it reads full vacuum at idle then you are good to go.

If it reads low vacuum at idle but increases as you raise rpm's that's ported and will not work.
 
BENZOMATIC said:
Fuel psi reg. needs to be manifold referenced. The port on the throttle body may be full manifold vacuum or ported.

Hook a vacuum gauge to the port on the TB, if it reads full vacuum at idle then you are good to go.

If it reads low vacuum at idle but increases as you raise rpm's that's ported and will not work.
Click to expand...
got it, thanks.
Confirmed with holley tech support (which I'm learning is absolutely fantastic), the front is ported for the vaccum on my distributer, the one in back is manifold pressure.
 
ARRRRGGGGGGHHHHHHH-- flare experts?

I pulled all the stainless steel lines, re-flared all the joints with the high-quality 37 degree flaring tools, and made sure all lines were connected were straight and stress free, and I'm *STILL* leaking at ever flare I made.

For the flare experts --- what the heck can I do? See abve, I'm using high quality, 37 degree, made for stainless steel tools. I'm prepping the lines straight and no burrs. Any suggestions?
 
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