Level Front End - Lift

Need some opinions on options:

Current:
Front:
2" poly spacer, unknown spring (not sure if its a lift spring or not)
Height measured from Center of wheel to Fender: ~21.5"

Rear:
OME Lift Springs
RE 1" Lift shackle
HD Relocation brackets
Height Measured from Center of wheel to Fender: ~23.5"

I would like to level out the front or come close.

Here are the options I came up with:

Option 1: Keep unknown spring, lose the Poly spacer, add in ACOS. This should get me within a 1/4" of level if my math is correct, but it would be maxing out the ACOS. -Future Adjustability, because I may actually lose the RE shackles, and try to lower the rear end down a little, don't "need" 5.5" of lift, cause I plan on staying on 31"s. - $250

Option 2: OME 934 springs. I've read anywhere from a 2-3" lift with these springs, and then keep my 2" poly spacer, should get me within an 1" of level (which is fine, cause I don't mind a little rake). I have a heavy front end, ARB bumper & Winch. - No future adjustability if for any reason I want to lower the rear end a little. $185

Thoughts on which option is best, or any issues you see with either option?
I plan on doing Adj. trackbar, ZJ TRE, adj LCA with drop brackets, at the same time.

I have the RE 2" add a leaf lift on my 92, to level out the front I picked up a pair of ZJ V-8 springs at the local junkyard for $30.

Option 1. The adjustment would be nice especially if you plan on changing in the future, and the cost really isn't much more.

trippled said:

Option 1. The adjustment would be nice especially if you plan on changing in the future, and the cost really isn't much more.

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The issues I have with Option 1 is keeping an unknown spring, with an unknown spring rate, and lift, and "hoping" that an adjustable system will play well with it, and get me close to level. I'll also be Maxing out the ACOS, to get it near level, which I'm not sure if that is an issue? IS there any potential for problems maxing out the ACOS system?

Price isn't a huge deal, as I originally budgeted for that anyway, but part of me wonders if I should start with a spring that I know, and build a base off of that. Potentially start with the 934, and poly, and then maybe down the line, if I need, or want, pick up the ACOS, instead of starting with the ACOS, and upgrading the spring later?

Bought the XJ 12 years ago and the first lift include a ACOS. It is one of my better purchases, allowing quick adjustments to the ride height as the lift and/or front load changes.
If you plan on keeping your XJ, it's a Google choice.

lazyxj said:

Bought the XJ 12 years ago and the first lift include a ACOS. It is one of my better purchases, allowing quick adjustments to the ride height as the lift and/or front load changes.
If you plan on keeping your XJ, it's a Google choice.

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I totally get this, and normally, this is my logic, and I'm all for getting a set of ACOS, BUT, in this case, based on the springs I have currently, I'd be maxing out the ACOS just to get level, so the adjustability is sort of out the window, at least until I got new springs in the future.

Which is why I think option 2 is the better way to start, and then upgrade to ACOS in place of a 2" poly spacer, down the line.

At the end of the day I think I'll end up going with new springs, and ACOS, but I think more than anything else, I'm trying to figure out which is smarter to get first, the springs, or the spacers. cause I can't afford to drop $1k on the front end right off the bat. (This includes adj track bar, LCA's, UCA's, Springs, TRE's, possibly even some other things like hubs and ball joints)

Stock height, center of wheel hub to stock fender flare location is 17.5, so you have 4" up front. Since you have 2" coil spacer, that leads me to believe that you have V8 ZJ Upcountry coils, or other 2" lift coils.

JKS ACos for XJ are on amazon for 225$, not sure if they have a warehouse in your state, so tax may or may not apply.
There are other comparable lift springs for less money.
RE 5.5 coils PN 1335 104
RE 4.5 coils PN 1310 ( I think ) 85$
If you want to just level out, the RE 5.5 should get you where you need.
ACOS + RE 4.5 will get you a little higher.
Could always chop a half or whole ring off.

Johnnie Walker said:

Stock height, center of wheel hub to stock fender flare location is 17.5, so you have 4" up front. Since you have 2" coil spacer, that leads me to believe that you have V8 ZJ Upcountry coils, or other 2" lift coils.

JKS ACos for XJ are on amazon for 225$, not sure if they have a warehouse in your state, so tax may or may not apply.
There are other comparable lift springs for less money.
RE 5.5 coils PN 1335 104
RE 4.5 coils PN 1310 ( I think ) 85$
If you want to just level out, the RE 5.5 should get you where you need.
ACOS + RE 4.5 will get you a little higher.
Could always chop a half or whole ring off.

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Johnnie,

I think you may be right with my current set up.

Read in several places that the RE 5.5 coils net more like 6" even after settling. I'm half tempted to go with the 4.5 set instead, and then once it settles, toss in a set of much smaller spacers to level out. Isolators alone should net me almost 1/2" so I may not need much spacing, if any.

I should say that I'm not completely worried about the $$ issue, not that money is unlimited, but I do find that OME makes good quality stuff, any thoughts on running RE Springs? Have you ever, do you like them?


Also, semi-related. I'm swapping out the TRE, and drag link with new ends, and ZJ parts. I'm picking up an Adj. Track bar, to get my axle back to center. At this height, school me on why, or why not, I should get Adj. upper and lower or one or the other, control arms? I've read I can run stock CA's and a drop bracket which will give better quality ride, at one point do I need Adj ones? (This is mainly a road queen, sees off road maybe once a month, and really only trails)

I have run a few different re springs. Currently have some on my mj. Not sure of the pn, but po of them cut em down and they netted me 3.5".
One of my prior XJ had re 3.5 kit on it. Rode nice. Didn't know too much about shocks back then, so it probably could have been nicer with better shocks. I've seen people run 3 stock isolators. Not ideal, but if it nets what you want. Cheaper than most alternatives.
As far as cad brackets go, typically 4 to about 5.5 lift about stock length control arms work.
So, since stock xj control arms are weak. I would say at least upgrade to wj lowers and an adjustable upper if you go the cad bracket route. If you decide not to use cad bracket or long arms, definitely get a full set of adjustable control arms to help center your axle/tires in your wheel well.
For steering, depending on what the zj tie rod setup will cost, consider picking up an aftermarket tie rod with ends. I run the ironman4x4fab tie rod and "3/4 ton" rod ends on my mj. Used to have this setup on my xj before I got a great deal on currie steering. Last I checked the tie rod and ends was only around 100 bucks. And they are something you can replace with off the shelf parts.

Johnnie Walker said:

I have run a few different re springs. Currently have some on my mj. Not sure of the pn, but po of them cut em down and they netted me 3.5".
One of my prior XJ had re 3.5 kit on it. Rode nice. Didn't know too much about shocks back then, so it probably could have been nicer with better shocks. I've seen people run 3 stock isolators. Not ideal, but if it nets what you want. Cheaper than most alternatives.
As far as cad brackets go, typically 4 to about 5.5 lift about stock length control arms work.
So, since stock xj control arms are weak. I would say at least upgrade to wj lowers and an adjustable upper if you go the cad bracket route. If you decide not to use cad bracket or long arms, definitely get a full set of adjustable control arms to help center your axle/tires in your wheel well.
For steering, depending on what the zj tie rod setup will cost, consider picking up an aftermarket tie rod with ends. I run the ironman4x4fab tie rod and "3/4 ton" rod ends on my mj. Used to have this setup on my xj before I got a great deal on currie steering. Last I checked the tie rod and ends was only around 100 bucks. And they are something you can replace with off the shelf parts.

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I'm going to pick up the 4.5" RE13010's. Like you said, I can stack isolators as necessary if I need to gain a minimal amount.

Ironman Tie Rod is about $150, I was eyeing the IRO version, which is the exact same as the Ironman (1.25" solid), but costs about $30 less, and comes powder coated, so I think I'll go with the IRO version.

I picked up a used JKS Trackbar for a decent price.

I was going to pick up Rocky Road Control Arm Drop brackets, but I saw with shipping, it would be the same as the RE version, which I can get from amazon, with Prime, so I'll go that route. I have a set of WJ lowers at the moment, and I can get a decent deal on Adj Uppers.

Is there anything else I'm missing or I should be replacing while i'm at it? I'll probably pick up an extra TRE for the Drag link, but I doubt I'll swap the drag unless it is bad.

Beware of the IRO tie rod. It's short! Ask blonde jon. FOr minimal or stock height it's all right. But, it's not really wide enough to work on taller lifts.
Consider maybe the rusty's tie rod then. IIRC, the newer "model" of the IM4x4Fab tie rod has machined wrench flats, or something of the sort to aid in adjusting it.
And, a friend of mine has the RRO cad brackets and likes them. They are better IMO, and his, in the fact that the upper CA mount is all inclusive/welded on the bracket. NO chincey spacer or extra bracket. And they come with the braces. You are aware that the RE CAD brackets do not come with the braces, correct? Unless its a bundle for more $$.

Johnnie Walker said:

Beware of the IRO tie rod. It's short! Ask blonde jon. FOr minimal or stock height it's all right. But, it's not really wide enough to work on taller lifts.
Consider maybe the rusty's tie rod then. IIRC, the newer "model" of the IM4x4Fab tie rod has machined wrench flats, or something of the sort to aid in adjusting it.
And, a friend of mine has the RRO cad brackets and likes them. They are better IMO, and his, in the fact that the upper CA mount is all inclusive/welded on the bracket. NO chincey spacer or extra bracket. And they come with the braces. You are aware that the RE CAD brackets do not come with the braces, correct? Unless its a bundle for more $$.

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Glad you chimed in about the IRO Tie Rod. I'll have to make a call to them, and see what the length is, and compare to the Ironman version and yes, you are correct about the Ironman having machined flats, which is nice, wish they would powder coat. Rusty's is a good price too.

I checked on the RRO CAD brackets, and yes, they are cheaper, and come with the brace, BUT, shipping is $52! which brings the price up to the same cost as the RE bracket (and brace) with free shipping on Amazon. I like the fact that its all just one unit with the upper as well, but between the shipping, and i've heard bad customer service, i'm on the fence with them. I"m half tempted to try out the Rough Country ones.