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Best way to center rear axle?

J

jeepin2015

NAXJA Forum User
Location
North Carolina
What is the best way to center the rear axle on a xj so that there is a even gap on the left and right side of the rear tires? See how the rear axle and wheel is pushed forward in this picture?
http://s456.photobucket.com/user/Shenandoahcrawler/media/053100_164500.jpg.html
How would you center the axle back in the middle of the wheel well? What would have to be done? Also how would I do the front axle? Adjustable control arms?
 
First, I would flex the tire all the way up and see where it lands in the wheel well. As it does, it should move rearward some.

In other words, this looks pretty normal.

If you want it centered at ride height, you would need to drill another set of holes in the spring mounting plate.
 
old_man said:
First, I would flex the tire all the way up and see where it lands in the wheel well. As it does, it should move rearward some.

In other words, this looks pretty normal.

If you want it centered at ride height, you would need to drill another set of holes in the spring mounting plate.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I want it centered at ride height. I'm a little confused with what you mean by drill another set of holes in the spring mounting plate?
 
There is a plate mounted to the axle that has a hole in it. A bolt goes through the spring leaf pack and the head sits in the hole.
 
Your leaf pack is in the middle of a sandwich between the spring perch on the axle and the upper plate, which are held centered by the u-bolts. If you drill a hole in the front of the perch and the spring plate, you can move the leaf pack forward a bit in the sandwich, giving the effect of moving the axle back. Lots of perches with 3 holes to let you relocate the axle on the leaf centering pin, here's a random one from ruffstuff but others make them too. Benefit of replacing the perch is it gives you more support, less wrapping. You will still need to redrill (or buy) new upper plate to center the u-bolts.

R1135-full.jpg


MORE also makes a plate that goes between the perch and the leaf, letting you move the pack without replacing the perch. Still need to drill the top plate to center the u-bolts.

https://www.mountainoffroad.com/axle-off-set-plate-for-2-1-2-wide-springs.html

Long-term your best bet is to get a longer main leaf. The front of the leaf acts like control arms for the rear axle, keeping the axle from moving in and out. There are custom leafs or you can try something like an explorer main leaf that is similar spring rate and a couple of inches longer. You might need the off-set perches anyway, to get the axle exactly where you want it.
 
ehall said:
Your leaf pack is in the middle of a sandwich between the spring perch on the axle and the upper plate, which are held centered by the u-bolts. If you drill a hole in the front of the perch and the spring plate, you can move the leaf pack forward a bit in the sandwich, giving the effect of moving the axle back. Lots of perches with 3 holes to let you relocate the axle on the leaf centering pin, here's a random one from ruffstuff but others make them too. Benefit of replacing the perch is it gives you more support, less wrapping. You will still need to redrill (or buy) new upper plate to center the u-bolts.

R1135-full.jpg


MORE also makes a plate that goes between the perch and the leaf, letting you move the pack without replacing the perch. Still need to drill the top plate to center the u-bolts.

https://www.mountainoffroad.com/axle-off-set-plate-for-2-1-2-wide-springs.html

Long-term your best bet is to get a longer main leaf. The front of the leaf acts like control arms for the rear axle, keeping the axle from moving in and out. There are custom leafs or you can try something like an explorer main leaf that is similar spring rate and a couple of inches longer. You might need the off-set perches anyway, to get the axle exactly where you want it.
Click to expand...

Do you have a picture of how the offset plates go? I know you said they go between the perch and leaf spring but I would like to see how they go. Would I have to get a longer drive shaft or relocate the shocks?
 
jeepin2015 said:
Do you have a picture of how the offset plates go?
Click to expand...
Nope, sorry. I looked at them but decided it was better to reweld longer perches, to correct multiple issues at once (wrap, pinion angle, shiock mounts, etc)

Would I have to get a longer drive shaft or relocate the shocks?
Click to expand...
Maybe. The stock driveshafts are only intended for a little bit of action at stock ride height and tend to start vibrating once they are stretched out a bit. And if you rotate the axle, the shock mount on the back side of the tube will rotate down and under, and may cause binding on the shock body.
 
The picture is of what I called the plates. The correct name is perch.
 
Leaf springs get longer when they are compressed and your axle has a rearward tilted axle path because of it. If you move the axle to center at ride height, it may contact the rear of the fender under compression.
 
You want room behind the tire for suspension compression. The more arch the leaf has the more the axle will move way from the frame mounted spring hanger when you compress it.
 
ftwelder said:
Leaf springs get longer when they are compressed and your axle has a rearward tilted axle path because of it. If you move the axle to center at ride height, it may contact the rear of the fender under compression.
Click to expand...

Do coil springs or coil overs cause the axle to move backwards when compressed? I thought about doing a coil spring or coil over conversion in the rear.
 
That's more of a question of geometry than of the (not so) simple addition of a linked suspension using coil springs or cool overs.


Not to insult your intelligence. But your lift looks normal. A quick check would be to make sure you installed the springs correctly.
 
jeepin2015 said:
Do coil springs or coil overs cause the axle to move backwards when compressed? I thought about doing a coil spring or coil over conversion in the rear.[/QUOTE

Some more than others. If the rear arms connect to a point on the frame forward of the stock spring mount and/or to a lower point on the frame.

Keep in mind that because you have larger tires you won't be stuffing the axle up as far as with stock tires so you may be able to move it back a inch or 1.5 without issue. Roll one rear tire up on a big curb and see what you get!
Click to expand...
 
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