My gauges come and go occasionally, but today (on startup) they all went out except the speedometer... which fluxuates between 20mph and pinned. Idle sounds OK, but when I step on the gas it hesitates and keeps stuttering. Undriveable, if that's a word. I'll take a closer look this evening, but where to start? The exhaust is rusty, but I don't see an O2 sensor messing with the speedometer. Battery is a three year old red top. Ambient temperature this morning was 40F. XJ is a DD and was last run Friday night - no problems.
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My XJ is Possessed
- Thread starter DaveD912
- Start date
- Location
- In a strange land
I would start by chasing ground connections.
While at it I would also check on the positive connections up by the PDC and alternator, but my money is on a ground problem.
While at it I would also check on the positive connections up by the PDC and alternator, but my money is on a ground problem.
- Location
- Torrance, CA
What year is your jeep?
- Location
- Torrance, CA
Sounds like a diode might have have gone out in the alternator and is feeding tons of noise into the electrical system.
a very good possibility
or terrible chassis grounds.
or they may not be related and he needs to smack the dash on top of the cluster because of the contacts.
lazyxj
NAXJA Member #1310
- Location
- Los Angeles
Up under the far left hand side of the dash here is a large plug with about 40 wires going into it. It also has a hex head screw in the middle of it.
Loosen the screw and work the plug in and out a few times and then tighten it. Wiggle it and tighten again, repeat until the plug is fully seated.
This plug has caused gauge problems and a "No Bus" issue.
The instrument cluster may also have dirty contacts.
There are many write-ups to search for, it isn't too difficult.
Loosen the screw and work the plug in and out a few times and then tighten it. Wiggle it and tighten again, repeat until the plug is fully seated.
This plug has caused gauge problems and a "No Bus" issue.
The instrument cluster may also have dirty contacts.
There are many write-ups to search for, it isn't too difficult.
It was dark when I got home, but I found two grounds - one by the battery and one at the back of the engine bay. Both are fine. The connection under left side of the dash is good. Changing out the alternator doesn't look too hard. I'll probably do that. Rust will be my biggest hurdle.
- Location
- Torrance, CA
Try disconnecting the alternator and starting the jeep and see if your symptoms improve.
- Location
- Waukegan, IL
This is a good suggestion. I'd just unplug the connector. I don't see the need to remove the + lead. Be prepared for the check engine light. The charging system may be monitored by the ecm.
I am leaning towards the cluster connection being dirty though.
the connector is just the field wires.
if it's gone wonky internally it's best to disconnect the charging cable, or you run the risk of it going runaway and pumping high voltage into the system. That's bad.
the cluster thing is just a chrysler thing. Mine randomly drops all the gauges, smack the dash and they come back. Sometimes it goes months, sometimes I experience it twice in a day. I'm not to motivated to pull it yet.
russ25444
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- slanesville wv
Might want to get a brass bell on that thing
- Location
- Waukegan, IL
Pulling the field connections would disable the alternator removing any a/c noise from the equation.
But, removing the + lead won't hurt anything as long as the field connections are also disconnected.
It all depends on the effort the o.p. wants to go to.
But, removing the + lead won't hurt anything as long as the field connections are also disconnected.
It all depends on the effort the o.p. wants to go to.
pulling the field wire would disconnect a normally functioning alternator, but if he suspects that it has failed in any way it's now an unknown quantity that might do weird things.
better safe than sorry, but it's his PCM if he wants to cook it for the 5 minutes it would take to pull the + lead.
edit:
and in a 99 the regulator bits are actually in the PCM, the stuff in the alternator just does what it's told.
better safe than sorry, but it's his PCM if he wants to cook it for the 5 minutes it would take to pull the + lead.
edit:
and in a 99 the regulator bits are actually in the PCM, the stuff in the alternator just does what it's told.
- Location
- Waukegan, IL
That's definitely a problem. Engine running voltage should be 13-14 v.
The alternator was the problem - put a new one in for $100 and my XJ is back. Thanks for all the advice, it was spot on as always.
If you found this post on a search - this is not a hard job. I have basic hand tools and was able to do the job in a few hours. Loosened the serpentine belt. Pulled the factory skid and rubber splash guard (yup, still have it). Pulled the battery and battery tray (gives you a better view). Once the alternator is free, it will come out through the bottom of the engine bay but requires a bit of tetris skill. Totally worth doing - saved some cash and got that DIY feeling of pride
If you found this post on a search - this is not a hard job. I have basic hand tools and was able to do the job in a few hours. Loosened the serpentine belt. Pulled the factory skid and rubber splash guard (yup, still have it). Pulled the battery and battery tray (gives you a better view). Once the alternator is free, it will come out through the bottom of the engine bay but requires a bit of tetris skill. Totally worth doing - saved some cash and got that DIY feeling of pride
