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waggy pitman arm Q

VAhasnoWAVES

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Lake City, Mi
in preparation for a HP44 swap i purchased a (stock) waggy pitman arm to give me the drag link angle and throw needed for high steer. i was warned that there may be clearance issues with the nut of the TRE and the frame... but the price was right and i decided to try.

first off... i hadnt heard of clearance issues with a waggy arm. is this a thing? can i expect to see issues?

11260588_893986557322428_2497793968376101165_n.jpg


second... i feel like i can get the arm to seat properly. i cant get the face of the arm to the bottom of the splines. this is where my stock arm sat before i removed it. is this arm fully seated or does it still need to go further on the splines?

12042970_893986583989092_418869197439319948_n.jpg


12049553_893986580655759_8626696822538655228_n.jpg
 
This looks normal to me. I tried a waggy arm and had no interference with any part of the frame or anything else, other than with my lower rad arm. I have the 2.8L though, so my rad is skinnier an taller than the 4.0L. Because of this, I have to go with a WJ arm which is a 2" drop va the waggy 1.1ish" drop. I guess I should mention I also just swapped in a Ford HP44.

In regards to installation, that also looks normal. Just tighten the nut to the specified torque and re-check after a thousand miles or so to make sure it hasn't loosed up. It looks just like mine.
 
^^ What he said.
I was surprised how much further down the pitman shaft my ZJ arm went when I set the torque wrench to it.
Looks fine.
 
No idea, but I am sure a short Google search will turn that up.

When I put mine on, I tighten the shit out of it with loctite on the nut since I have had the pitman come loose once coming down big bear mountain and basically could have died. I only said torque spec since I am sure folks would freak out at my "tighten the shit out of it" comment.
 
You don't necessarily need the waggy pitman arm. Depends on what high steer arms you use.

On mine, the stock Xj was fine. I have a waggy arm, but the way my steering is now I didnt need it
 
i did not have issues but it was close. I eventually went to a WJ pitman arm and ground down the master splines so you can clock it.
 
XJ pitman nut torque is 180 ft-lbs.
I'd clean it all up with (whatever) and use a dab of loctite on the nut, or at least replace the split ring washer. I say this after having had a properly torqued nut back off a bit, enough I could take it off with my hand. Scary, because I only noticed it due to the deadspot in steering.
The issue is that it's a 7/8" thread torqued to half the self-locking, usual spec for a 7/8 thread. Can't go full torque because it's a tapered fit - you'd ruin the parts and probably never separate them. So... loctite.
 
I used a stock FSJ arm with my XJ with a ford 44 front and a dropped FSJ arm on my ZJ with ford 44 front. both 44's were set up for high steer with reid knuckles and artec high steer arms
 
Drop waggy arm is the same drop as stock xj pitman arm. For reference I'm running a ford hp44 with Chevy big bearing outters(hi steer arms).
 
Drop waggy arm is the same drop as stock xj pitman arm. For reference I'm running a ford hp44 with Chevy big bearing outters(hi steer arms).

A stock XJ arm hits the unibody on my ZJ. A drop FSJ arm does not and i think they have more throw than a XJ arm. maybe waggy arm is different than the FSJ arm i got?
 
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