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AW4 being stubborn, doesn't wanna mate up.

blistovmhz

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Vancouver, BC
Pulled my GF's XJ's driveline (2000, blown 0331 head, swapping motor with a 98).
Got the 98 longblock just about setup and am trying to mate up the transmission and having a whore of a time.

The 98 was bolted to an AX15. I removed the pilot bearing and spacer and made sure the crank was clean and free from burrs. Stuck the TC into the AW4 and felt around to make sure the TC dropped into the oil pump, but I'm not sure I've got it. With my 4l65e, it's obvious when it drops in all the way, but I didn't feel that last clunk with the AW4.

So I figured it had to be in all the way and tried to mate it all up, but just doesn't want to line up. Everything looks good, got a good straight/level line, but somethings preventing me from getting the bell-housing closer than 1.5" from the block. Am I missing some sneaky trick here? Does the TC end up just sliding half way out and getting bound up on the input shaft?

Perhaps someone's got an FSM or just happens to know how much TC stickout I should have from the bellhousing when seated correctly? (that'd be ridiculously ideal).

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When I have installed the torque converter it is 2 definite clunks/ sets of splines to get lined up. I usually have to use the flywheel to t/c bolts to pull the t/c back to the flex plate, going around after the 3rd bolt the flex plate is flat and I torque and Loctite the bolts.

My 2000 fsm is missing the AW4 section but my ATSG manual says 16.5mm from (recessed) converter mounting pad to trans flange/ engine mounting surface.
 
I've decided that the AW4 just like to fight on the way in.

I bought 2 lengths of 7/16" threaded rod from Mcmaster Carr. Those make it easy to pull the engine and transmission together.
 
Just to be clear, you did remove the MT flywheel from the "new" engine, and replaced it with the AT flexplate.. correct?
 
:). Yes, replaced the flywheel with the flex plate, pulled the pilot bearing and spacer :p.

Figured it out. As suspected, the TC just wasn't engaged to the oil pump. Spun it a trillion times, tried pulling it back a few mm and then back in. Was just being stubborn about grabbing the oil pump, and of course the first time I dropped it in, it was probably in place, but slipped out during assembly to the motor. Finally tracked down an FSM which does specify that the TC mounts should be 1/2" inside the bell housing. Once I knew that, I could be sure the TC was stuffed all the way in. Then just picked up the motor so the back was pointed down, so when I lifted the trans up, the TC didn't slide out again. Once I knew how far the TC was supposed to be engaged, it was cake the rest of the way.

Got the 98 motor built up with the 2000 intake/sensors/transmission, and stuffed back in the Jeep. Hopefully have it back on the road tomorrow. Three afternoons after work for a complete motor swap plus screwing with the 2000/98 conversion and getting that damned pilot bearing/spacer out. Not too shabby for a one man operation. Only help I had (girl starts crying when I try to get her to help me fix HER truck, and the roomies were all busy with important dinners or something) was with setting the driveline back into the Jeep tonight, and wasn't a tonne of help cause roomie was "cold" and "doesn't want to get dirty". Gaaaaay.

Thanks all.
 
Yea, I wouldn't ever use bolts to draw the trans into the block. Did that once (my first work on an auto) and nearly pushed the TC through the oil pump :).
If the trans doesn't just slide on, something is wrong.

I can see the top two bolts being used as guides as being handy, but I wouldn't use them for anything other than guides.
 
I can see the top two bolts being used as guides as being handy, but I wouldn't use them for anything other than guides.

I use the bottom two, theyre closer to centerline allowing easier mating, and are easier to remove once the trans is mated.

To be honest, id be worry about breaking castings... those parts werent designed for that.
 
Because if the tc comes unseated from the oil pump, you'll destroy your transmission, and/or your flex plate. Works great, until it doesn't, and if everything is lined up correctly, it should just slide into place. Aka, the lesson I almost learned the hard way with my 5.3 swap :p
 
Every time i swap an engine, the tranny gets a new front pump seal. Its pretty hard for the tc to come out.

The 4.0/aw4/ax15 is the most difficult engine ive ever found for getting it to come together easy.
 
Done the last 4 swaps this way. No issues so far.

Is there a specific reason you think its a bad idea?



Bellhousings crack, engine blocks crack, both expensive items. And besides, as said before, they should fit together smoothly, so if they dont... your cockeyed or theres something else wrong...
 
Ok,

Done about a dozen so far. AX15, Peugot, AW4, all give me a fight.

never had an issue with other Jeep engines, mini, VW, fords or chevys (never done a dodge)

Very gentle with the allthread pulling them together, and it saves me time and cursing, so I'm probably going to keep going that way. Hardheaded I guess. :)


Not disagreeing with your points, but its working for me.
 
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