First let me say that Cruiser's Renix writeup is excellent. The other day my CPS wire got loose from the nylon ties and burned on the hot exhaust. I use High-Altitude CPS for my 88XJ(automatic) and tried to order another. They were out of stock and were twice as much as the standard CPS. So I decided to buy the standard CPS and set it up according to Cruiser's suggestions,i.e. drill top hole to 3/8"D to get it closer to the flywheel shutter/chopper for a stronger signal, slot it per Cruiser's/590's suggestion to ease the next replacement, move the sensor closer to the top bolt so it is 3/8" from top bolt hole. My son and I did all that and couldn't start the XJ. When it did start, it backfired and died when letting it idle. Obviously an over- advance condition. We QUICKLY pulled the Cruiser modified CPS, measured my old High-altitude CPSs, readjusted the modified CPS to the old high-altitude sensor distance from hole of 11/16", reinstalled it and problem solved. Here's what I'd recomment as an amendment to Cruiser's Renix writeup:
1. First adjust sensor location, i.e. either 11/16" distance from top 5/16"D hole or a distance of 1.350" from centerline of sensor tip to inside outer circumference of top 5/16"D hole.
2. Drill top hole to 3/8"D diameter as per Cruiser's recommendation to get a stronger signal.
3. Put 5/16" slots in both sensor holes to ease next CPS install.
I also found two 4" long sparkplug boots, cut them lengthwise and slipped them over the CPS wire to protect it from the exhaust heat. Likewise, I think a 11mm box wrench welded to a 1/2"D rod about 2 ft. long with a slight angle bent into the end may work to remove future slotted CPS very quickly. It appears there is enough space, between the intake manifold and firewall, to loosen the CPS bolts and remove/install a new CPS in minutes from the engine bay. If that works, it will eliminate jackstands and crawling underneath to work in poor light with a 3 ft. extension,swivel joint,and 11 mm socket.
Hope this helps those who can't wait to do their next CPS removal/install.
Best regards,
CJR
1. First adjust sensor location, i.e. either 11/16" distance from top 5/16"D hole or a distance of 1.350" from centerline of sensor tip to inside outer circumference of top 5/16"D hole.
2. Drill top hole to 3/8"D diameter as per Cruiser's recommendation to get a stronger signal.
3. Put 5/16" slots in both sensor holes to ease next CPS install.
I also found two 4" long sparkplug boots, cut them lengthwise and slipped them over the CPS wire to protect it from the exhaust heat. Likewise, I think a 11mm box wrench welded to a 1/2"D rod about 2 ft. long with a slight angle bent into the end may work to remove future slotted CPS very quickly. It appears there is enough space, between the intake manifold and firewall, to loosen the CPS bolts and remove/install a new CPS in minutes from the engine bay. If that works, it will eliminate jackstands and crawling underneath to work in poor light with a 3 ft. extension,swivel joint,and 11 mm socket.
Hope this helps those who can't wait to do their next CPS removal/install.
Best regards,
CJR
