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Creating a High Pinion WJ Dana 30

CameronB

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Tacoma, WA
I have a a complete WJ 30 that I was going to rob the knuckles/steering off of for my 95 XJ.
But now I'm rethinking my options.
What would be wrong with taking my spare HP 30 center and pressing the WJ axle tubes on?

Pros:

  • *Maintain a HP configuration, current 4:88s/locker.
    *I have no qualms running the CV axle shafts (if the splines will work with my ECTED locker? not sure if there's a difference)
    *Wider knuckle placement, and wider overall, eliminating my current use of 1.25" wheel spacer/adapters (running JK 17"s, rear 8.8 w the same spidertrax spacers)
    *Better unit bearings (reportedly,) and no need for the .25" spacer.
    *All mounts appear to be usable as-is, not much custom fab required (already have RE TB mount on frame, & running WJ LCAs. May have to weld on an OTK TB bracket...)
    *Re-use all the WJ steering linkage.

    This rig runs 35s, mostly a DD, mild off roader, lots of logging roads. 5.5" lift, RE Drop Brackets, 4.0L and 242.
    I have a friend that can do the pumpkin swap, I can do the rest.

    What say you?
 
I think the placement of the coil bucket and such are wider also not just the axle itself so your coils would be splayed out at the bottom and the control arms also. I could be wrong though
 
The buckets sit higher, apx 2.5" it appears.
But just by looking at them side by side, the width spacing of the rest looks very close.
Need to do some more measuring tomorrow.
 
I would make more sense just to put the WJ inner C's on your HP.

Just swapping the inner C's would not increase the axle to the WJ width. Thus, the CV axles inner shafts would need to be cut, he would still need the 1.75" spacers and the stock WJ steering would not work.

IMO, if you are going to swap axle tubes, swap in some thicker, stronger tubes and then mount a truss/coil mount kit. Then add the WJ inner C's.
 
you'll need new rims too. thats not cheap to go 5 on 5.5 in 17s.

I think it would be cheaper/easier to just swap the WJ stuff on your 30.
 
i think your return isnt worth the time/monetary investment. idk about shaft availability for the WJ stuff. what about bolt pattern? youll have to address the rear. it seems like a lot of work for a little width. but if your hell bent, have at it.

i seem to recall a guy who bolted in WJ axles. it was a blue XJ i think.
 
After some quick measurements, I found that:
*Spring perches are spaced 1" wider overall on the WJ 30 (1/2" per side)
*CA mounts look nearly identical
*JK wheels fit perfect, but would need a small spacer to run a tie rod flip kit.
*Stock WJ drag link is about 40". It would need to be apx 36.5" on my XJ.
*Coil buckets are apx 2.5" taller than the XJ
*Trackbar appears that it would bolt right up to my RE frame side mount.

I like the idea about pressing in thicker tubes and trussing it.
I can run the CV shafts, but have also seen aftermarket available.
Really digging the idea of having the ball joints out wider like the WJ is stock, especially being on the road so much. I think that would lead to extended BJ and unit bearing life, as well as turning/handling capabilities.

fyi, running the Teraflex high steer setup currently, with custom OTK trackbar, and no sway bar (very much missed on the road...) WJ LCAs and RE adjustable UCAs, stretching the front out apx 1", RE DBs, 5.5" coils/leaves, 8.8" w/wheel adapter/spacers.
 
Sweet, I get first chançe to be a forum d-bag ;) For all that work you put into a tirdy you should just swap in a 44.
Just sayin'. But you have an interesting idea and you get to reuse stuff you already have so the cost is very minor. What you got to loose?
 
Yup, I do have a lot of stuff already for a 30, including spare 4.88s.
I do not have the time or money to further invest in D44 territory at this point, for this jeep. A dana 30 is where I'm at right now, period, as cheap as possible. Picked up the entire WJ axle for a good deal.

Now, the other XJ, she's different. She has 9" front and rear, and is ready to play in these Washington woods ;)

Anyone know if WJ and XJ shafts are the same spline and diameter? Different lengths, I know...
 
you'll need new rims too. thats not cheap to go 5 on 5.5 in 17s.

I think it would be cheaper/easier to just swap the WJ stuff on your 30.



i think your return isnt worth the time/monetary investment. idk about shaft availability for the WJ stuff. what about bolt pattern? youll have to address the rear. it seems like a lot of work for a little width. but if your hell bent, have at it.

i seem to recall a guy who bolted in WJ axles. it was a blue XJ i think.


Remember he's already using JK wheels(5.5 bolt pattern) and wheel spacers/adapters
 
JK and WJs use 5x5 lug pattern, not 5x5.5.

For the money a Ford HP44 would make more sense to me.
 
Yup, I do have a lot of stuff already for a 30, including spare 4.88s.
I do not have the time or money to further invest in D44 territory at this point, for this jeep. A dana 30 is where I'm at right now, period, as cheap as possible. Picked up the entire WJ axle for a good deal.

Now, the other XJ, she's different. She has 9" front and rear, and is ready to play in these Washington woods ;)

Anyone know if WJ and XJ shafts are the same spline and diameter? Different lengths, I know...

D30 is a D30, at least as far as the carrier stuff. TJ/XJ low pinion, or YJ/XJ high pinion all share the same spline count and carrier. They all have 27 spline shafts, and can use the same carrier. Obviously the gears will not swap HP to LP, or vise versa.

The WJ D30 is the same, shafts are 27 spline, and the carriers are the same as the TJ/YJ/XJ. The WJ shafts are wider, so you cant do much past the carrier difference.


IMO, having built a fully decked out D44, keep your polished D30. Is there a reason you are thinking of doing all this work? Seems like the end result is you would get a very similar axle, minus wheel spacers.
For the record, I am trying to decide if I should build a HP WJ D30, but its for my DD WJ. :gee:
 
I did a quick read through this, so forgive me if someone already said this. But if you want a WJ 30, cut the brackets and such off, and weld new, correctly set, brackets on and call it good. Makes more sense than a retube. If you do that it would make more sense to use DOM, or other stronger material for the tube.
There are at least a couple companies than make aftermarket u-joint shafts for the WJ 30. Do that, and keep the CV's as spares.
 
I did a quick read through this, so forgive me if someone already said this. But if you want a WJ 30, cut the brackets and such off, and weld new, correctly set, brackets on and call it good. Makes more sense than a retube. If you do that it would make more sense to use DOM, or other stronger material for the tube.
There are at least a couple companies than make aftermarket u-joint shafts for the WJ 30. Do that, and keep the CV's as spares.

that doesn't get him HP.

you're better off going JK if you want a wider 30.
 
that doesn't get him HP.

you're better off going JK if you want a wider 30.

I also stated that retubing with a better material makes more sense. But, unless OP has the means to do a majority of the work, a 60 or something of the sort makes more sense as well.
 
I also stated that retubing with a better material makes more sense. But, unless OP has the means to do a majority of the work, a 60 or something of the sort makes more sense as well.

DOM is a process, not a material. most axle tubes are mild DOM already.

but you're onto something, if you're going to bother to re-tube, you might as well go heavier wall or chromo.
 
Now, the other XJ, she's different. She has 9" front and rear, and is ready to play in these Washington woods ;)

So this is just for your DD and mild wheeler? Leave it alone and just keep the low pinion 30. Seems like a waste of time to me for something you just drive to work and might take on old logging roads once in a while.
 
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