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96 XJ No FPR

Overland

NAXJA Forum User
My 96 two door came to me with three inches of varnish in the fuel tank, and naturally, a non responsive fuel pump. So I clipped the pigtail, wired it to one from a 90, and dropped the whole assembly in. 90 model had the regulator on the rail, and also a different fuel level sending unit. Well, it ran. I was able to work a lot of the bugs out, but still had hot starting issues, and it was running quite hot at highway speed, loaded. Sometimes hot, at idle, it would start dropping cylinders, then die unless I gave it some throttle.

Tired of carrying three gallons of insurance in the back seat, I ordered a pump and started working on the original sending unit. These things are too expensive to replace without at least trying to fix. So I popped the arm out, which relieves the sweeping contacts. Cleaned the PCB with steel wool and polished the contacts with fine emery cloth. Meter showed a reading, up and down.

When the pump came in, I went right out to put it together, but getting it in is a bit tricky on factory springs without a jack. Fuel gauge didn't work. Must be the infamous bump, I thought. How could something run so many trails? My four door got quartered years ago by a full size at 55, yet the gauge still works. I'd call that a bump and a half. How could cramming it into the tank between the axle and the exhaust cause a problem?

I feel real sorry for those guys who bumped their sending units, lost their reading, and replaced it at over $200 over what was probably a dirty ground. Mine was just a dirty ground, directly from the PCB to the bracket, next to the pump ground. My gauge works like a champ now, and my gas can stays at home.

The new pump is whisper quiet, half the time I don't hear it. Before, I had to warm up for about a minute, and still had poor throttle response for the first take off or two. Now, throttle response is crisp right from start up. I've noticed a significant increase in power, as well. Also, while it still runs hot at highway speed, loaded, it doesn't overheat, and highway performance is greatly increased. (four cylinder still ain't much) The hot starting and idling problems are gone entirely.

For what it's worth, I got a whole month out of a piece of 30R7 hose in the tank, but it was ready to go when it came back out. Already split at one end.

So these are my observations of driving a 96 XJ for one month with a different pump and no fuel pressure regulator. It got me by, took the boat to the lake, but was far from perfect. I pulled three hundred miles from the first tank of fuel, all loaded, mostly on the highway. Pretty sad for a four cylinder, I thought. Hopefully it improves, will update after this tank is gone.
 
You must be X military, you learn how to do most everything with nothing? Sometimes you got to do what you got to do :).

Numerous times I found partially cooked connectors between the engine bay and the pump that made enough resistance to lower the volts and amps enough it degraded fuel pump function. Grounds will do the same thing, thanks for the reminder.
 
After replacing the pump 2 times on mine I decided to drop the tank and what a great idea that was. I will do that from now on.
 
After replacing the pump 2 times on mine I decided to drop the tank and what a great idea that was. I will do that from now on.

It'll only get easier once it's lifted, why would anyone drop the tank just to replace the fuel pump? I can roll under mine on a creeper without a jack, and that's sagging stock springs on 235/75/16s. Pump comes out in ten minutes.

Was your tank full of crud, or were you using $20 replacement pumps?
 
Funny thing - if you'd swapped a 91-95 injector rail+FPR (the 90-down one has different attachment points for bolting to the manifold) and lines in, you could have used that 90 pump no problem except as you noted the gauge goes the wrong direction.

Where'd you get the 96 sending unit? That whole assembly is a unicorn, only one company producing them aftermarket as far as I know, 97 up ones won't fit and 95 down ones are remote FPR and a different resistance curve on the sender.

In similar circumstances I jerry rigged a 97-01 fuel tank and sending unit into my 96. No power concerns or anything of the sort, it bolted right in like it was meant to aside from needing the fill and vent hoses swapped over from the donor as well and the wiring spliced, but my gauge was a goner and never worked again due to (again) incompatible resistance curves.

Gotta do what you gotta do sometimes.
 
It'll only get easier once it's lifted, why would anyone drop the tank just to replace the fuel pump? I can roll under mine on a creeper without a jack, and that's sagging stock springs on 235/75/16s. Pump comes out in ten minutes.

Was your tank full of crud, or were you using $20 replacement pumps?

Ease of mind really. It is only a few extra minutes to drop the tank and I can inspect the tank real good. It is easier to ensure that the pump is sitting in its little spot that accepts it in the bottom of the tank. Plus installing the lock ring is much easier when it is out of the jeep.
 
I'd say the most trouble I had was with seating the barb in the rubber at the bottom. Once I knew where to start, and had the feel for what was seated or not, it wasn't all that bad.
 
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