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Synergy HD steering kit

ehall

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
http://www.polyperformance.com/Synergy-Jeep-TJ-LJ-XJ-ZJ-MJ-Heavy-Duty-Steering-Kit_2

The Synergy MFG Heavy Duty Steering Kit for TJ/LJ, XJ, ZJ, and MJ models is a larger and stronger, bolt-on replacement for stock steering. No reaming or drilling of the steering knuckles is required. This is a direct bolt-on kit. We modeled the geometry of this steering after the stock Y-Style steering. We did this for a couple of reasons. Y-Style steering minimizes bump steer (compared to T-style), and by keeping the front wheels separated, helps prevent death wobble. There will be some toe change, but it will not adversely affect driving and there won't be any more toe change than there was with the stock steering. The complete kit includes a new Tie Rod, Drag Link, Steering Stabilizer Clamp, and all new HD Metal on Metal Tie Rod Ends. The Tie Rod is made from 1-3/8" 4130 Chromoly steel and is Heat Treated for maximum strength. The Drag Link is made from 1-3/8" 1018 Solid Bar to eliminate any deflection. Both parts are finished with an abrasive-resistant powder coat finish for maximum durability and corrosion resistance. The Drag Link features our Double Adjuster Assembly allowing for adjustment of the Drag Link length without removal from the vehicle and the Tie Rod features Left Hand and Right Hand opposing threads to allow for adjustment of the Tie Rod length without removal from the vehicle. Fits vehicles with 2-6" of lift and requires a minimum of 2" front bump stop spacers.

Looks like a competitor to Curry. Not in love with custom TREs. Anybody know anything about it?
 
At $550 I'm a skeptic. Look at the wheel BS requirements, too.
I'd be more interested in building my own using Ruffstuff's Y-style spud, some DOM & inserts for the joint of my choice. Chevy stuff, probably.
 
I just met a guy, whom of which works at Poly Performance, was taking to him about the new steering setup. He said that they have installed a few already on some customer's vehicles. It's a plug n pray setup, and unlike the currie setup (which is beefy, don't get me wrong) has all replaceable joints.
The TRE's probably have some standard thread pitch, so you could probably find a different off the shelf or other TRE that would work.
 
It looks like the drag link TRE, at the passenger side knuckle, can be flipped, allowing OTK steering, once the knuckles are drilled and a Goferit-type tapered bushings installed.
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoOTKSteeringLinks.htm
I have run a Curry steering for several years and have thought about flipping it but the Curry passenger side TRE is cast into the drag link, preventing such a move.
Moving to a raised track bar would allow more drop, since the stock angle track bar binds the suspension, as the axle droops.
 
I emailed them and asked about the TRE threads, they said buy spares

There aren't off the shelf TRE's that fit. These TRE's are much larger. This steering kit uses TRE's with a larger 7/8-18 shank, same size as a GM 1-ton TRE, but the studs are the TJ taper. The drag link uses two left hand thread TRE's, and the tie rod uses a left hand thread TRE and a right hand thread TRE.

Most of the improvement of this steering over stock are the TRE's. They are heavy duty, metal on metal units that are grease able and won't wear out and develop play as quickly as the stock style do.

Thank you,

Chris Steimle
Sales Manager
Synergy Manufacturing
 
Hmmmm... what size tre's does the currie unit use?

I'm only saying this based on size alone, nothing about the quality of metal forging etc but isn't the "zj upgrade" stuff 22mm? 22mm comes out to like .009 smaller than 7/8 right?
 
Yep, 22mm is ~ 7/8". "1 ton" size shank, though less stud size.
WJ stuff is ~15/16" , or 24mm.
 
Soooo ream the knuckles to standard one ton taper. Then you have off the shelf tie rod ends available

That could be an option but then you lose the added strength of the synergy TRE. Would make more sense just to buy a spare set to keep in the rig.

PPM-4131-COMPARISON-400.jpg
 
I'd wait to see if their 'metal on metal' TREs are any better than their ball joints. The Currie stuff isn't perfect either. Getting grease in the Currie drag link seems to be hit or miss.
 
That center Gm joint is a high angle. And is very much needed with tie rod end steering on a rig with lots of flex. But i mean why would you need anything better then a stock 1ton end? (when sticking to a tie-rod that is) I have had the same GM joints in the YJ for 15yrs and if the steering would work in my new rig then i would of swapped it over. Still solid and i didnt play nice with that rig.
 
I'd wait to see if their 'metal on metal' TREs are any better than their ball joints. The Currie stuff isn't perfect either. Getting grease in the Currie drag link seems to be hit or miss.

Brian @ Currie sent me the instruction sheet for how to get the grease in the joints. It's a pain but the tie rod end ball has to rotated into the right position to allow the grease to travel and fill the cavity.

Other than the grease issue, I like the Currie system and it's worked great for me.
 
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